Battery relocation questions
11-29-07, 08:26 AM
#1
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Battery relocation questions
I'm gathering all the peices to relocate my battery to the rear bins and could usesome advise.
1..... I've noticed in other threads that some people use 0 gauge wire while others are using 2 gauge. Is the larger wire over kill or just perdonal taste?
2.....About how long will my power wire need to betoreach the pass. bin?
3.....What gauge wire should I run to the starter? and will I need abreaker in that line?
4.....What did you guys do with the stock negative cable? Did you cut it after it grounds under the driver side fusebox?
5.....I can't see the pix in the FAQ write-up thread so could those who have done this post some pix of how the battery is secured in the bin? (need some fabrication ideas)
Thanx
BTW I will be using a westo miata battery
1..... I've noticed in other threads that some people use 0 gauge wire while others are using 2 gauge. Is the larger wire over kill or just perdonal taste?
2.....About how long will my power wire need to betoreach the pass. bin?
3.....What gauge wire should I run to the starter? and will I need abreaker in that line?
4.....What did you guys do with the stock negative cable? Did you cut it after it grounds under the driver side fusebox?
5.....I can't see the pix in the FAQ write-up thread so could those who have done this post some pix of how the battery is secured in the bin? (need some fabrication ideas)
Thanx
BTW I will be using a westo miata battery
11-29-07, 08:48 AM
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If that doesn't make sense I can try and take some pics.
- Andy
11-29-07, 03:27 PM
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Here are a few pics of mine. I used 2 gauge & it starts the V8 without a care.
Here is the mount I used:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custo...QQcmdZViewItem
Here is the mount I used:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custo...QQcmdZViewItem
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11-29-07, 06:43 PM
#9
Depends on the track, club, and venue. I have run my Optima in the pax rear bin for years without issue. These are however requirements for *race* cars. Track cars...not so much and do vary.
Is it true that the sealed gel cell batteries don't need a breather?
Crispy
11-29-07, 07:13 PM
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There's all types of stupid outdated special requirements if competing in drag racing. I didn't get hassled with my AGM Miata battery in the bin tied down with a rope and no battery cutoff when I went to the drag strip. I have since added an (E-bay) circuit breaker/switch and better securing but I haven't been back to the drag strip. I used 2 gauge welding cable for my "wire" and I would think 4 gauge would be enough. Using wire that has lots of strands will make routing much easier (more flexible) and is better quality too. I hear the AGM batteries can't vent enough to be a problem. It's probably true considering they can be shipped by regular UPS while "normal" car batteries can't.
11-29-07, 07:46 PM
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11-29-07, 11:26 PM
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At least a 150 Amp circuit breaker should be fine. In case you missed the link above you really should read this excellent writeup...
http://www.stanford.edu/~sunid/battery/
My battery relocation is very similar except I used...
2 gauge welding wire with generic ring terminals (2 gold plated ring terminals were included with my circuit breaker).
A generic brand 12V 160 Amp circuit breaker.
My battery is reversed. The positive is on the driver side. I didn't add a fuse box.
I ran the negative cable to the bolt for the seat belt (no holes drilled through the frame). I also ran some extra grounds from there to other places.
I put some foam in the bottom of the bin and fiberglassed over it instead of building a tray. I drilled 2 small holes in the bin and ran a small rope from inside the bin through the bin, under the bottom of the bin and back inside the bin. I tied it at the top of the battery to secure it.
Here is a link to the cheap Ebay circuit breakers...
http://search.ebay.com/search/search...e=search&fgtp=
They look like they are all made by the same company with different labeling and options added.
http://www.stanford.edu/~sunid/battery/
My battery relocation is very similar except I used...
2 gauge welding wire with generic ring terminals (2 gold plated ring terminals were included with my circuit breaker).
A generic brand 12V 160 Amp circuit breaker.
My battery is reversed. The positive is on the driver side. I didn't add a fuse box.
I ran the negative cable to the bolt for the seat belt (no holes drilled through the frame). I also ran some extra grounds from there to other places.
I put some foam in the bottom of the bin and fiberglassed over it instead of building a tray. I drilled 2 small holes in the bin and ran a small rope from inside the bin through the bin, under the bottom of the bin and back inside the bin. I tied it at the top of the battery to secure it.
Here is a link to the cheap Ebay circuit breakers...
http://search.ebay.com/search/search...e=search&fgtp=
They look like they are all made by the same company with different labeling and options added.
11-30-07, 03:23 PM
#16
12-01-07, 02:30 PM
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btw, Summit has battery relocation kits that aren't too expensive and do the job just fine. i paid a little over $70 +s/h for a kit and it's more then plenty. it's a ton cheaper than the Stinger cable and connectors that were used in that write-up.
12-01-07, 02:47 PM
#19
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
This kit has about $30 worth of parts in a $70 kit. This box will not fit in FD bins without hacking them to bits. And there is no breaker. A breaker is essential for a safe install.
This kit will do the job just fine for the typical half-assed FD battery relocation projects.
12-01-07, 08:39 PM
#20
I bought the Taylor Vertex battery relocation kit for about $40 from Summit Racing. [which included 16 feet of red 2 gauge wire, 3 feet of black negative 2 gauge (both with battery terminals already attached), a battery tray, battery hold downs, and tray mounting hardware] I knew the box was too big to fit from the above kit.
Details for my install here:
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/batrelo.htm
FWIW
Crispy
Details for my install here:
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/batrelo.htm
FWIW
Crispy
12-02-07, 07:55 AM
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It's a ton cheaper because it includes almost no parts:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
This kit has about $30 worth of parts in a $70 kit. This box will not fit in FD bins without hacking them to bits. And there is no breaker. A breaker is essential for a safe install.
This kit will do the job just fine for the typical half-assed FD battery relocation projects.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
This kit has about $30 worth of parts in a $70 kit. This box will not fit in FD bins without hacking them to bits. And there is no breaker. A breaker is essential for a safe install.
This kit will do the job just fine for the typical half-assed FD battery relocation projects.
the equivalent Stinger parts in the write-up cost $115 from hifisoundconnection.com, which is a TERRIBLE company. i tried buying the Stinger parts from them, and will never bother with Hi-Fi again. i ended up getting the Summit kit because of the $40 difference. yes, that is a lot cheaper, especially for those of us that have to mind a budget.
and no, neither the "perfect relocation job" or the "typical half-assed projcect" price includes the breaker. that's an extra $70-75 regardless of whether you get Stinger parts or Summit parts.
btw, i really appreciated your relocation write-up. i have it printed and it's in my FD Projects How-To binder that i keep in my garage. keep up the good work.
12-02-07, 05:32 PM
#22
Apologies if I suggested that your install was half-assed.
I spent 150-200 hours on this project so saving $40 was not a priority. You'd have to put a pretty low value on your time for $40 to matter on a project of that length. I even mention in the write up that generic components will do the job just as well as the Singer hardware.
I ordered from hifisoundconnection.com only once so I can't vouch for how good they are. This hardware can be found in many places though.
I spent 150-200 hours on this project so saving $40 was not a priority. You'd have to put a pretty low value on your time for $40 to matter on a project of that length. I even mention in the write up that generic components will do the job just as well as the Singer hardware.
I ordered from hifisoundconnection.com only once so I can't vouch for how good they are. This hardware can be found in many places though.
this kit, the one that i got, costs $73. link
the equivalent Stinger parts in the write-up cost $115 from hifisoundconnection.com, which is a TERRIBLE company. i tried buying the Stinger parts from them, and will never bother with Hi-Fi again. i ended up getting the Summit kit because of the $40 difference. yes, that is a lot cheaper, especially for those of us that have to mind a budget.
and no, neither the "perfect relocation job" or the "typical half-assed projcect" price includes the breaker. that's an extra $70-75 regardless of whether you get Stinger parts or Summit parts.
btw, i really appreciated your relocation write-up. i have it printed and it's in my FD Projects How-To binder that i keep in my garage. keep up the good work.
the equivalent Stinger parts in the write-up cost $115 from hifisoundconnection.com, which is a TERRIBLE company. i tried buying the Stinger parts from them, and will never bother with Hi-Fi again. i ended up getting the Summit kit because of the $40 difference. yes, that is a lot cheaper, especially for those of us that have to mind a budget.
and no, neither the "perfect relocation job" or the "typical half-assed projcect" price includes the breaker. that's an extra $70-75 regardless of whether you get Stinger parts or Summit parts.
btw, i really appreciated your relocation write-up. i have it printed and it's in my FD Projects How-To binder that i keep in my garage. keep up the good work.
