battery relocation kit
12-23-03, 03:08 AM
#3
omgwtfposlol
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summit or any of the big car parts sites, pretty non specific piece so you can shop around. might want to find a kit that leaves a possitive termninal in the engine bay, or get something like that on your own, so you can still jump the car from the engine bay.
12-23-03, 03:13 AM
#4
addicted to lounge
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Yeah I guess I really should have searched first. I think I am going to just make my own. I have a question about the fuse though. I'm not really seeing why you would need a fuse, if you are just running the + wire from the original +terminal. Aren't you just extending the terminal and the stock fuses would be sufficient.
12-23-03, 03:24 AM
#6
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never seen a fuse in a kit. but M2 performance sells one for $289. it comes with (1) Sealed drycell battery with integrated metal mounting case; (2) pre-cut lengths of positive & negative 2-gauge battery cables; (4) cables ends; (2) terminal covers.
12-23-03, 04:40 AM
#7
HOOAH!!
I have a battery relocation kit from M2. BUT GOOD LUCK GETTING ANYTHING FROM THEM. Anyhow it is an Odyssey 920C Dry Cell battery that I relocated to the drivers side bin. I ran the cabling from the engine compartment down along the firewall, through the brake line channel to the underbody just below the bin. Drilled a hole and punched through to the bin. It was pretty easy. Connected the extension cables directly to the original battery mountings.
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12-23-03, 05:26 AM
#8
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Kits are a waste of money.
Go to checker auto parts (or something like it). They have the battery boxes, terminals, etc. Then just get the right gauges wire and run it. You wont need the box if you are planning on trying to fit it in the rear bins, but i found it easier to just by a box and put it in the hatch.
Then, just make sure you ground it well.
Go to checker auto parts (or something like it). They have the battery boxes, terminals, etc. Then just get the right gauges wire and run it. You wont need the box if you are planning on trying to fit it in the rear bins, but i found it easier to just by a box and put it in the hatch.
Then, just make sure you ground it well.
12-23-03, 08:43 AM
#9
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www.gothamracing.com has a mini battery kit. Little pricy for a BATTERY though!
you will appreciate the DIY method, imo...
you will appreciate the DIY method, imo...
12-23-03, 08:55 AM
#10
I am becoming...
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widebody. I've got a new relocation kit I never put in. It's out of the box but hasn't been used. I'll sell it to you really cheap. Also have an optima red top if you want it.
-Nic
-Nic
12-23-03, 09:43 AM
#11
Ee / Cpe
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www.batterymart.com
order a hawker mini battery, buy 13 ft of 2 gauge wire red, 2 feet of black and some terminal crimps... It will cost you under 150 and you can mount it in your rear bin, (or under the rear bin like me
)
order a hawker mini battery, buy 13 ft of 2 gauge wire red, 2 feet of black and some terminal crimps... It will cost you under 150 and you can mount it in your rear bin, (or under the rear bin like me
)
12-23-03, 10:06 AM
#12
i did mine myself just a few days ago. was so easy to do and came out really well.
took about two hours total work time.
$110 for the Optima Red Top battery
$80 for 13 feet of 0-gauge wire, the gold battery terminals, 1.5ft 2-gauge grounding wire w/ terminal, battery box and tiedown kit, and a 150a fuse and box.
heres a pic:
took about two hours total work time.
$110 for the Optima Red Top battery
$80 for 13 feet of 0-gauge wire, the gold battery terminals, 1.5ft 2-gauge grounding wire w/ terminal, battery box and tiedown kit, and a 150a fuse and box.
heres a pic:
12-23-03, 02:27 PM
#15
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You really dont need kit, just put together one of your own. Its cheaper and you know what your getting. It cost me about $50 to relocate mine. Except it was a bitch and a half to run the wires and cut the bin.
12-23-03, 02:49 PM
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just nit-picking here but both your bins look completely different, the catch that it slots into is 2 part in the top one and 1 part in the bottom one. Also Fujikuro you seem to have some sort of button/lock thing where as 0110-M-P you do not. Never had bins so could someone please tell me the differences with the above two and why etc?
Thanks
Ryan
Thanks
Ryan
12-23-03, 03:10 PM
#18
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Originally posted by widebody2
Yeah I guess I really should have searched first. I think I am going to just make my own. I have a question about the fuse though. I'm not really seeing why you would need a fuse, if you are just running the + wire from the original +terminal. Aren't you just extending the terminal and the stock fuses would be sufficient.
Yeah I guess I really should have searched first. I think I am going to just make my own. I have a question about the fuse though. I'm not really seeing why you would need a fuse, if you are just running the + wire from the original +terminal. Aren't you just extending the terminal and the stock fuses would be sufficient.
12-23-03, 03:42 PM
#19
Originally posted by rybrx7
just nit-picking here but both your bins look completely different, the catch that it slots into is 2 part in the top one and 1 part in the bottom one. Also Fujikuro you seem to have some sort of button/lock thing where as 0110-M-P you do not. Never had bins so could someone please tell me the differences with the above two and why etc?
Thanks
Ryan
just nit-picking here but both your bins look completely different, the catch that it slots into is 2 part in the top one and 1 part in the bottom one. Also Fujikuro you seem to have some sort of button/lock thing where as 0110-M-P you do not. Never had bins so could someone please tell me the differences with the above two and why etc?
Thanks
Ryan
