Halfway in the battery relocation.. I have ran the cable to the starter and was wondering if anyone else has done it and if there was any problems. I have searched and come up with only one reference on doing it this way..

thanks Tek

 

search jimlab. He did a nice job on this. I did it the way he documented and it is a clean installation

 

http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/batrelo.htm

 

Yes, you should have no problems. I did mine this way recently and it starts every time.

 

I did a simpler route. All I did was take the positive cable off of the fuse box on the driverside of the engine bay. Then I ran the new cable from the fuse box to the passenger side bin behind the passenger seat. This way there is no change in the factory wiring. All I did was lenghten the positive cable. Let me know if you have any questions. It only took a few hours.

Quid

 

read this.before I started... nice wright up.

 

Thats exactally what I did a few weeks ago...Works great for me...Actually I could post some pics here in a sec...

 

Heres some pictures of my setup. You can see the cable I ran from the fuse box in the first one. then my finished product in the second...

 

why did you run so many cables? Having all those there kinda defeats the purpose of a battery relocation since its still taking up the space IMO.

 

he has relocated the rats nest to where his old battery was. LOL

 

Bingo. You dont know how many times ive taken my UIM off in the past 6 months. It gets old.

 

why not just run a fused wire to the starter motor. remove the positive connection at the stock battery location

 

i have not heard of this running the positive wire to the starter motor method? is this how jim lab did it? is there a write up?

 

I ran mine from the positive cable location at the fuse box to the drivers side bin, Took a couple of hours really easy install and car starts just as it always has.

 

Same here with muliple grounds.This before replacing box cover.

 

I'm having a starting problem. When I turn the key over the starter just clicks, I have to turn it over a few times before it finally catches and starts. The starter and selonoid check ok good, put in a new battery when higher CCA. Still the same problem. My battery is relocated to the passenger storage bin. I'm wondering if I need to run a direct power line to the starter? If so any hints or suggestions on how to? Thanks!

 

/\ I'm curious about this also?

I don't think it is a battery relocation issue. I think its has more to do with bad grounds (maybe) and/or a bad clutch switch (i don't know). Mine does exactly the same thing and I have not done the relocation.

I turn the key and get a click, turn the key a few more times then she finally cranks the starter and the car fires right up. I had this problem since I picked the car up two plus years ago. Another thing is when the key is held in the start position ( I hear the same click) then I can let the clutch out and back in tell it turns the starter and fires the car up.

That's why I'm leaning torwards the clutch switch. I have also checked all my grounds already and they seem to be in good contact.

Thanks
Joe

I guess I'll try to short the clutch switch to verify the problem.

 

^

 

I got this response:
From this thread when I asked the same follow up to your question:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...6&page=1&pp=15

I'll go out at lunch and short the clutch switch and let you know if that is the problem or not with what I'm trying to discribe.

I have also heard of many others having to short/replace the clutch switch, it just has not been a huge priority for my car.

 

Just shorted my clutch switch and that is not my problem. It still acts the same. So maybe I do have other grounding issues or another problem.

I did notice (with the PFC in the sensor check scree) that when this happens my STR (starter) doesn't light up and the FPD (fuel pump) doesn't turn on. However when I either kick the clutch pedal up/down a few times or turn the key in the ignition from On to Start a few times, it turns over and I see those light up.

Clutch switch is now on all the time and my neutral switch is very intermittent.

So I think I could have ground problems. Sorry didn't mean to derail this thread.

Thanks
Joe

 

/\ there are 2 switches on the clutch pedal. only one is for the starting system.

diagnosis is very staright forward.

verify 12v going to the s terminal on the starter
verify 12v going to the large bolt on the starter
12v is whatever your battery voltage is ~12.3
~10v on the s terminal can cause problems.
if the voltage is low disconnect the saftey switch on the clutch
try and start the car. measure voltage at the terminals on the safety switch harness side
is it higher or the same as the reading at the s terminal?
higher means the clutch switch is dropping voltage.
if it also read low the problem is in the ignition (key) switch contacts.
doing a voltage drop test is also good to be thorough.

this all assumes the battery is fully charged and is of sufficent amperage. not just a "good" battery

 

ahhh, I see the light.
Thanks

 

Does the extra length of the vacuum lines in your relocated solenoid rack delay it's performance operation?