BoOsTin FD

I was just wondering, Do I have to cut down the ground that connected to the Battery or can i just bolt it to the Frame. I want to be able to put it back to the original location when the emission time comes.

If i just bolt the ground terminal that went to battery, to frame, that way it will have ground and when i connect the battery in the rear bin to the body, it will have more ground.

thanks

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

I'm also thinking about relocating my battery.. due to front mount..

I've been told that you should run negative and positive from the engine to the battery.. You could just grounded where you put your battery.. but I been told you should do both.. It make sense when you think about it.. You want a solid ground on your car.. not 8-10 ft away from your engine..

BoOsTin FD

well, i don't really see the point of taking ground from the engine to the rear bin. I'll probably just do as i said earlier, I don't want to cut anything, that later i may regret.

potatochobit

iTrader: (1)

have you checked out the mini battery kit? should work with most intercoolers and is cheaper. only issue is car cannot sit for long period of times meaning over a week.

shawnk

I just grounded the original negative terminal to the frame just a bit behind where the battery was and then grounded the battery to the body in the rear and have had no problems.

Shawn

BoOsTin FD

Cool man, that's the answer i've been looking for.

Thanks a lot

Jason93RX7R1

Yes for sure, you do not want another cable running from engine to the bins. That isn't a good idea. Also, why would you need the battery up front for emissions reasons? The only people that might give you a hard time would be Tech at the track if you didn't have it installed in a box/vented, etc. As far as that ground up front, its grounded to the frame already, just cut off the excess. Also, ground the wire to one of the 10mm bolts on the fuse panel, not the actual battery post mount. It will make a much cleaner looking install.

I recently did might and I was very satisfied with the results, I will try and post some pics tomorrow.

J

BoOsTin FD

cool, You can email me some pics if it's not too much trouble. About emissions, i heard that we have to have battery under the hood to pass that visual crap.

BoostinFD@aol.com

BoOsTin FD

I just did this relocation. I cut the ground, I ran a positive from fuse box to the rear bin. And I got ground from the Belt anchor that was behind that plastic where the speaker is.

I was just wondering, is there any chance a fire could catch by doing this. I mean, it starts fine and i got the 2 gauge wire from home depot and it's not cut anywhere, but I'm kind of affraid to leave the car alone. I still have stock alarm and I was just wondering should i be worried about it?

Thanks

BoOsTin FD

also anyone know what could i do with the extra space there now?

shawnk

I put a 150amp fuse at the battery. If you have a problem with the wire between the engine and battery and dont have a fuse you could have a fire.

Shawn

BoOsTin FD

where do i get that fuse and to you just tap into the wire?

KoalaFD

iTrader: (12)

I put my ignition box and relocated the front relay box to that area...

Juster

go ahead and just bolt up the original ground cable to the frame. You should be fine with an extra ground...

wicked sol

How are you get power to the little fuse box thats connected to the battery? What do you do with it after relocating the batt?

shawnk

Here are some pics of what I did.

www.3rdgenrx7.com/images/fuses.jpg

www.3rdgenrx7.com/images/enginecables.jpg

I actually have 2 cables coming off the battery positive. One to the engine with that 150 amp blade fuse and then one to my stereo with a 70 amp tube fuse (partially visible). I got them both at a stereo store.

Shawn

BoOsTin FD

how much are they?

shawnk

Can't remember. More than I wanted to spend but I couldnt find anything else at the time.

Shawn

Jason93RX7R1

You don't have to reground the groud that was at the battery. Its already grounded just cut off the excess.

Jason93RX7R1

Also, just goto any stereo store for the fuse, get an actual breaker, that way you can just trip it and kill the whole car when you work on it; saves lots of time.

xph

I brought the + and - to the rear hatch as well as the alt cable, put the whole thing inside an aluminum box, and put a standard kill switch on the box... I was thinking that I could then put an old fashioned choke cable to the switch and mount that down under by bumper to make the car NHRA legal.. I too used home depot wire... it is less flexible, but way cheaper than the stereo cable...

X

Jason93RX7R1

Yeyy you ran all that to the battery in the bins? Hope you have fuses on both of the +..... That is alot of major electrical stuff on long cables. Its not supposed to be like that.

LetsGO7

iTrader: (2)

I can't find out where to run my wires through, from engine bay to inside rear passen. seat!? Anyone?!

Thanks

-joe

apexkw

there is a rubber grommet in the front drivers wheel well. it comes out up above the fuses inside the car. just take yourwheel off and the fendor liners and you will see it.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

joe,
congrats on pursuing a very good mod... your new battery location should be in the pass side package well behind the seat. i suggest after removing the large plastic piece you cut the entire plastic well out. i used 3/4 inch X 1/8 thick aluminum straps bent at a right angle bolted to the floor to locate the battery. i drilled a hole in 2 of them for the vertical rods that secure the battery. run a 10 inch wire off the neg post to the floor of the car. (be sure to grind off the paint for a good ground and use a lock washer for the bolt.) the pos battery cable runs laterally from the battery over the driveshaft hump and lies nicely along the driver's side frame rail under the scuffplate. you need to encase the cable in a plastic protector. remove the driver's side dead pedal and kick panel. remove your driver's side front wheel and the plastic wheel well liner. you will see a really nice entry for the battery cable that then snakes thru an open hole below the brake master cylinder. run it up to the original attachment point, solder on a connector and bolt it up. make sure the connecting nut has a rubber protective cover. it is extremely important that the hot wire is protected. i do suggest a cut-off switch at the battery or a large fuse but don't currently run one. you will be surprised at your weight distribution after the mod because not only are you adding rear weight you are removing front weight.
howard coleman