FyVe

iTrader: (1)

What are the procedures for me to identify what's draining my battery every few days? I have a new alternator not likely the cause, works well (old alternator behaved the same before it went out)

I've heard of things like taking fuses out and plugging a voltmeter in there with an adaptor for fuses? If so does anyone have a link to one of these?

I suspect the alarm or some shitty installation on my glowshift gauges may be the culprits (the glowshifts hold their color sometimes, other times they don't)

also maybe because I built custom headlights and needed to bridge 2 connections to make my lowbeam/high beam activate at the same time there's an issue there? Not sure how that one would apply but i gotta check it anyway maybe its touching something else.

vrx8

iTrader: (18)

I would start with the gauges and then inspect all the wiring in the engine bay. I had the same problem found out a cable on the alternator/starter harness was rubbing on the chassis causing a drain.

bajaman

A couple of years ago I had a similar problem that mysteriously appeared and then just as mysteriously cured itself.
The door lock light was staying on, as was the ignition switch light. Over the course of a week or so, the battery would be almost dead.
I don't know what caused it, I don't know what caused it to stop. All I know is that it's working properly now.

Weird.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

It may be your alarm. I would disconnect it for a few days and see if your battery holds a charge. My alarm (Clifford Alarm System) was draining the battery even when off. I wired in a separate power switch to it. Now I only switch on the power to the alarm when I want to use it. Problem solved.

FyVe

iTrader: (1)

See I'm not so sure about the alarm because it was doing it even with a blown fuse on the alarm which basically disabled the alarm completely. Seems to drain in the same time with the alarm now properly functioning, unless that fuse wasn a main power to the alarm. As far as the gauges, I haven't checked what power source they tried to use for it, but what source of constant power can I use so the gauges 'remember' their color? Also... They tried to hook up some kill switch to my fuel pump, so there's 2 wires connected to a switch coming from there.. Should I just pull that junk? I'm not too worried about getting the car stolen it has one of those Clifford's that requires a code to get down the block lol or it shuts off.

txfdr2

iTrader: (5)

its referred to as constant draw. Look for something grounding (that shouldn't be ground). Like a nick in a wire, loose connector, etc. Look to the last mods you did before you started having the problem.

I would disconnect the headlights and see if that fixes the problem. If so, reconnect it to a switched power source, rather than a constant.

wstrohm

If you have a multimeter, check for "dark current." That is the current drawn from the battery with all electrical loads off (including the ignition switch). Set the multimeter to current mode, disconnect either terminal of the battery, put the leads of the multimeter in series between the battery terminal and its cable, and read the current. It should be less than 20 milliamperes. If more current, something isn't turned off, or some after market component is a vampire.

If current is in spec, it's possible that the power used by your radiator fans after engine turn-off (assuming they run for the prescribed ten minutes) is pulling more energy out of your battery, over time, than you are putting in from the alternator. We had this problem on our '94, and I eventually deleted the Mazda fan circuit modification, which solved our problem. It would occur if you drive the car so few miles that the discharge caused by the fans running after turn off is (over time) greater than the charge accumulation from driving.

It could also be some other current-sucking electrical component that is just overwhelming your alternator (but it is rated for 100 amps, which is fairly awesome).

93vrfd_houston

iTrader: (10)

I had a very similar problem recently, had about 1.3 key off draw. For some reason mine was pretty easy to spot. Found that the ignition ring lamp was staying on even while the car or alarm was not activated. I'm guessing that the problem was in the door switch. I just pulled the bulb out of the ignition ring and haven't had the issue at all since!

danewbern

Same problem I had. Here is my thread and the suggestions to diagnose:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...charge-953706/

I unded up just putting in a battery tender and I plug my car into the wall when I am not going to drive it for a few days. Make me feel more green like I'm driving a Leaf (that makes 330 hp and get 15 miles to the gallon).

FyVe

iTrader: (1)

after doing the part highlighted in red, can I trace it further on to the fuse box or wherever and plug in the multimeter straight into the fuse slots to see what could be causing this? Also can I apply the to relays etc? or would relays possibly not be my issue? I have a weird issue with headlight high beams it works like 50% of the time so i suspect relay or wiring issue there that I have to check when i replace a headlight motor anyway, but the wiring under my steering column has to be checked also.

DMoneyRX-7

iTrader: (2)

When this was happening with me it turned out to be my Fuel Pump Relay was out, causing my fuel pump to stay on even when keys were out.

Trout2

iTrader: (5)

If you have an amp meter, see how many amps are being pulled from the battery when the car is off (should be a few milli-amps). If higher start pulling fuses to see what's causing excess current draw.

Jack

Radial GT

iTrader: (16)

http://www.popularmechanics.com/_mob...battery-drains

Good idea of where to start.

wstrohm

Yes, you could leave the multimeter in "current" mode, unplug a fuse, replace the fuse with the two meter leads, and read the current.

FyVe

iTrader: (1)

Waiting on that multimeter

FyVe

iTrader: (1)

Getting 14ma to the battery. I went and redid some cables on the back of the car specifically one I didn't like the way they did wiring on that went to the fuel pump but apparently was the cable that sent signal to the fuel gauge... There was a fuel pump cutoff rigged up there not sure if these idiots who owned the car before even had that working... I flipped the switch off various times and tried to start the car and it ran fine... Oh well. Cleaned up all the connections. Next step is to check gauges.

Ruler Of Assyria

It could have a dead battery cell out of the six cells. Check not only that it has 12.6 volts but also the CCA are up to par. Load test the battery. If battery is good disconnect the battery negative terminal and put an amp meter touching battery negative cable and battery post. Make sure anything electrical is off. If hood has a bulb when hood is open just remove bulb. Read the amperage. Then if you have amperage leeching then its time to pinpoint the circuit affected. Start pulling fuses till the amperage reads within range. You have then pinpointed the circuit that is bad. Start testing for the short to voltage. : ) good luck.

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

I've seen lots of glove box lights that stay on because the glove box won't fully close and push in the turn-off switch. I had this problem in both my rx7 and my old Volvo.

wstrohm

So that's OK. What voltage do you see across the battery posts with engine & ignition off, after driving the car for an hour or so? Ideally a fully-charged battery will read around 12.6 volts, or even a little higher if measured right after charging.

ryan1

iTrader: (5)

What kind of battery is it? I have a pos optima that goes dead in a couple of days, even if it is unhooked.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

Alternately, leave multimeter in series with battery terminal/post. Then pull fuses one at a time and see which fuse makes the current drop. That is how I used to pinpoint the naughty circuit.

SWAT81

iTrader: (14)

I've had this issue before and the culprit was my glove box light staying on from the switch not being pushed in enough. I would take time to inspect the basic stuff first, sit in your car in the complete dark to see if there are any source of light on throughout the car. Check the trunk light as well.

Radial GT

iTrader: (16)

I always thought the globe box light turned off with the key/no lights... That could be my culprit. I know it is on at night while driving, I always just ignored it. Good gosh that is one good bulb, still going strong after all these years.

Thanks for that!

FyVe

iTrader: (1)

Battery is usually around 13+ volts... I'm starting to think it may be the glove box... It's not exactly snug against the dash. I've seen it on while closed but I remedied the issue, or so I thought. Could old LEDs cause this too? I had LED dome lights, which would very dimly stay on when they got old until some guy at a shop told me that's what caused that. Hmmm I have some bulbs ima replace some of these LEDs, my tail lights have some funky LEDs.

bufferovrflo

iTrader: (7)

I'd suggest before replacing bulbs that you should first remove the ROOM 10A fuse in the compartment FB and test if that's drawing power while key off. The lighting system is extremely simple and the wiring diagram shows that the ROOM 10A fuse feeds everything (Glovebox, cargo light, door switches to dome, ignition key light).

I also have slow draining problem with my small Honda battery but I always just use the quick disconnect switch to avoid issues. Sucks losing radio presets every time though.