Str8Down

Which manual boost controller is better? It would seem to me that ball and spring would be better, because it's an all or nothing system, where as the bleeder would seem to leak air to the wastegate putting it in a partially open state all the time. Am I misunderstanding something? As I see lots of claims both ways.

XSTransAm

ball and spring will give you faster boost response, but by nature causes a little bit of boost spike. Also a ball and spring valve utilizes both a ball and spring and a bleeder (at least the turboxs one does).

I run just a bleeder valve on my car.

dubulup

ball and spring

Sled Driver

iTrader: (9)

Dawes Device (ball & spring)

No boost spike, easy set up, very stable boost control.

I have it..... I use it..... I swear by it........

Pfc verifies no spikes in recall mode

XSTransAm

Boost spike is dependant on alot of things, such as wastegate size.

Does the dawes have a variable bleed, fixed bleed, or no bleed? i dont remember

Str8Down

Couldn't he have his controller set to kick in at an amount eqal to the spike below the desired amount? In other words, lets say his ball valve spikes .5 psi, becase that is how much time it takes the wastegate to open after the desired boost is reached. He could set his controller at 9.5 psi and it would boost 10 before opening the wastegate. But then I guess it would fall back to 9.5 wouldn't it.

wingsfan

ball and spring. Needle valve (especially the cheaper Home Depot style) is just a recipe for BOOM! in my opinion.

bureau_c

The needle valve will work more like a variable version of the stock pills, so the boost curve, if you were to plot itk, has a shallower slope and the valve passes air to the actuator, opening it gradually. The ball and spring will work more like an electronic controller in that it holds the valve shut until boost reaches a certain point and then it opens all the way. This should allow faster boost rise, so more area under the curve, which is better.

That said, I've been wondering if it wouldn't be better to utilize a bleeder for the precontrol and a ball-and-spring for the wastegate...prespool may work better with a more gradual opening of the valve. That's just a theory at this point however...I'm currently using a pair of JoeP ball-and-spring type valves.

jds

Snook

iTrader: (12)

the home depot valves suck ***

a manual ball and spring valve is the only way to go as far as manual controllers

I prefer a profec b 100% better

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I use one Home Depot bleeder valve. I live in a climate where it doesn't get that cold (like you) so temp fluctuation isn't a problem. My single valve has worked very well for me, with no spikes or creep. The problem occurred when I tried to add a prespool control valve. I spent a month trying to get the two to work together, then I gave up and removed the prespool I now have a 12-8-12 (to 12.5) boost pattern. If you do the HD valve, DO NOT install the precontrol. Wait to see your results with the single controller first. It will probably be fine.

XSTransAm

you can set the ball and spring to hit significantly lower. then use the bleeder to get your max boost. Their are alot of factors that will determine if you have boost spike, but ball and spring boost controllers have boost spike more often than not because the ball and spring hold the waste gate shut until a desired boost is reached, then it uses a bleeder for fine adjustment.

XSTransAm

This is my cars boost running a bleeder valve boost controller and running in parellel. the two lines are before and after a midpipe