Doc-1

iTrader: (2)

I got a bit of an issue. The ball joints on my 94 are history. Does anyone know where I can get new ones to press in? I am kinda thinking that all new A-Arms are the most expensive option and if the 7 is true to form it willbe the most expensive possible. As a side note here. I am begining to believe the my 7 is a girl. If wants a part every month. Does not care how expensive it is but every month its a part. Last June it was a new engine. :smiley_12

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I hope you're sitting down. Mazda did not make the balljoints replacable. (My guess is that kept the weight of the member down, and reducing unsprung weight was a priority in designing this car). I've heard people talk about modifying them, but I fear there isn't enough material left to install a replaceable joint that won't break.

Front Upper Control Arm (L Side) 3400 F131-34-250 34-211Z $229.26
Front Upper Control Arm (R Side) 3400 F131-34-200 34-211 $259.80
Front Lower Control Arm (L Side) 3400 F131-34-350B 34-310Z $472.08
Front Lower Control Arm (R Side) 3400 F131-34-300B 34-310 $472.08

You can probably find used ones in the for sale forum. Use the search and try to find older ads that never sold, too. Also PM Fritz Flynn - he stocks used parts.

Dave

Doc-1

iTrader: (2)

That is what my research was indicating. Looks like this effort will take some time. Time to do some home wrk. Many thanks!

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

are you sure that it is your outer pivot points and not your inner pivots ( ball joints versus suspension bushings) that need replacing? if so it's a first for me.

should that be the case, that you do need ball joints, just buy a set of A arms off a parted out fd. you can probably buy them for $100 for the whole set since no one generally needs them. we just parted out a wrecked fd and didn't even bother to save them....

good luck,

howard coleman

Doc-1

iTrader: (2)

Yep the rubber boots rotted out and as I live in Alabama the water got me. I am sure that not all four are bad but I know that the passenger side is gone. I have always wonder why the passenger side gets the worst of it. The old girl has 87K on her and I guess it time.

Anyway if there is anyone out there that wants a (100) hunderd bucks I will glidely give it up for a set of A-Arms. I will order new boots..... oddly enough they can be ordered.

Doc

TireSmokin7

Sorry to hear about the ball joints. I have an idea on how to "fix" them but that will my next project after I finish a bushing group buy. If you do need bushings, now may be a good time since the A-arms will be off anyways...

https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-center-69/possible-gb-fd-delrin-suspension-bushings-506081/

Good luck what ever you decide.

Doc-1

iTrader: (2)

Looked at the link. It dates back a couple of years. What is the possibility that the bushings really exist? I did a little researce and Mariah Motor Spost has everything BUT BUT the ball joints. God hates me. I have oftem wondered why it takes 6 months to do almost anything on the old girl. I would rather not put her up on blocks for six months or find a grand for new A-Arms. God must hates me. Maybe it I am punished for something I did in a earlier life time. God it must have been bad!


Doc

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Bushings are not cheap, but fortunately they dont' all need to be replaced in one shot.

That thread appears to be a day old. IDK what you're saying about dating back a couple of years.

The ball joints aren't that hard to procure, like I said the for sale forum has them for a fraction of stock.

Perhaps you're new to FDs, but yes you should pretty much assume the car will need something new all the time. Driving it less helps but doesn't save you from that.

Dave

Doc-1

iTrader: (2)

You are of course right. It is my inexperience that is showing. Sorry for that.

What do you think of the Mariah Motor Sports bushings?

I have had the FD for 5 years. Did a lot of reading. Worked on the car alittle over the years. Did all the work myself except for the engine rebuild. Bruce at Rotary Resources did that and shipped the core back to me. He worked with me to get a very reliable engine. Also the Turbo rebuild turned into new turobs. I would send a picture if I knew how. I gave it a shot hope it works.


Doc

fastrx7r1-rotary

some people prefer stock or mazda motorsports bushings. the stiffer bushings are usually not needed on the FD and can make the car a little twitchy. also makes it a bit uncomfortable on the streets. search for a post from max cooper in the suspension forum about this. howard coleman (22 year SCCA Nationals racer) also has posted about his thoughts on bushing needs for the FD as well.

Doc-1

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it.

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

This may sound really dumb, but... how do you know that your ball joints are bad (without removing them)? There are some procedures for checking the torque capability of the unit, but it appears that involves removing the upper arms...

EDIT: I'm referring to page R-17 of the FSM.

DougFD3S

Here is a 4 rotor project in Australia that had the control arms machined (I think by Harrop Engineering) to accept serviceable ball-joints.

http://www.4rotor.com/CMS/index.php?...d=28&Itemid=62

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

so can anyone explain howto tell that your ball joints are bad while they'r eon the car? The boots on mine are ripped, so that can't be good. NOt too sure how long they've been like that, so I'm may be in the market for a new set of a-arms too.

spurvo

One way to check them is to lift the wheel off the ground from the bottom of the lower control arm, NOT the wheel, and not the frame. You want to take the load off of the ball joints to allow the spindle to move freely. This is not easy given the sway bar, but a decent jack and a little ingenuity (i.e. 2x4) can help here. Then grasp the top and bottom of the wheel, and try and wiggle the wheel by pulling on the top and pushing on the bottom, then the other way. If there's free play, very likely ball joints (inner bushings are loaded, so these shouldn't give much free play under this test..) the FSM has you pull the entire spindle off of the control arm and test the turning torque of the bolt. Using a calibrated torque reading tester. Right.

forcefed1

If you go the route of replacing the entire arms, I should be able to supply you with them.
send me a PM and Ill go test mine. I have some taken off my parts car Ill verify they are in good shape first.

Doc-1

iTrader: (2)

I hope this helps. Here are the boots and PN for them. I my case there was red water..RUST nevers sleeps. I hope to get some lower (used) controll arms.
Doc