ArmitageGVR4

iTrader: (13)

Has anyone ever located replacement ball joints for the front suspension? All the searches I've done have turned up with the same answer: replace the whole arm.

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Even if you could get the ball joint out, it is not clear that it would be easy to find an appropriate replacement. The labour of removing and reinstalling would probably far outstrip the cost of a new arm.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

I've never even seen a definitive write-up on how to test/confirm if your ball-joins are any good or not.

It would seem like it might be possible to replace and reseal them, I think I've seen replacements for "non-replaceable" joints for BMWs and such. The new arm are SERIOUSLY expensive. Like not funny.

ArmitageGVR4

iTrader: (13)

I can do all the work myself and it only takes 15 minutes to press out/press in a new ball joint with the proper tools... That's only if the parts are available though

The boots on mine are destroyed. If I cannot find a replacement part, maybe I can repack the joint and replace just the boot. Otherwise they seem to be fine and the car never sees any bad weather so I think the joints themselves should be okay. My other car has factory-non-replaceable ball joints and requires an entire replacement control arm, but NAPA sells a replacement joint that works great. That's kind of why I was hoping a similar thing would be available for the FD but so far I've had no luck finding one.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

^^^

You'd probably have to get an old arm and press one out, so you can start comparison shopping.It sure would be a major find if it existed.

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

The FSM has a test procedure, thought you will need a dial indicator.

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

There has been discussions here long ago. But nobody ever came up with an alernative. So for now, it's a new arm


Later

ArmitageGVR4

iTrader: (13)

I have yet to take a look at it, but it has been suggested that like some other manufacturers, the ball joint may be cast into the arm and therefore is not removable at all. I will take a look at it soon and report back.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

The FSM test procedure looks like a Rube Goldberg deal.

fd3sttre

mazda dosnt offer a replacement

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

Not to be a dick, but that's been obvious for a while now. They do sell the entire arms though.

Doc-1

iTrader: (2)

You can buy new boots. Call Ray he gots them

ArmitageGVR4

iTrader: (13)

Good info, thanks!

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

There's got to be a replacement out there—Mazda would just rather sell you $1500 worth of arms.

smcginnis87

ok well.. i just changed mine on my car.. or was going to but you can go to auto zone and rent the tool to push them out and then you can get replacements for it but them you have to weld them on to the arm (yes it has been done) but reason you have to weld them is because they can fall out if you don't,

or you can just get new arms i would just find a set of used stock ones because no one makes really a good replacement from what im told by RP,

so with all that said good luck

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Care to share info on the available replacements?

smcginnis87

I don't know where exactly but it would just be like a cheep like auto zone brand it would take more looking at local car shops to find one that you could use but like i said you would have to weld it or find some way to make it stay really good or it will fall out... but i would have to say just get some used ones if you can find them

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Could you vague it up a little bit more?

The question is how would one source a ball joint with the correct diameter ball, correct rod length, thread etc.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

what about pressing them out... machining the arm for a readily available joint, and pressing a slightly larger ball in?

I am just tossing out ideas.

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

^^ I'm in the same situation, I verified mine were split very recently. I was wondering the same thing about how to check the joints for integrity... bump for you and me both.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

As others have stated, the boots and clips can be purchased from Ray at Malloy for a few dollars. Very cheap. You'll need to clean and repack them with the appropriate grease when replacing the boots.

The FSM does have a procedure for testing the ball joints but it is awkwardly explained at best. There was an old post from max cooper about possibly using a fish scale to replicate the factory tool that I'm sure no factory technician ever used. It is very difficult for the home mechanic to accurately test ball joints...

I replaced all 4 of the front control arms on my car last year. It was expensive but since the car already has 130,000 + miles I figured it was time. Plus the OEM parts aren't getting any cheaper. It made a nice difference in my car and I believe I created a thread about it if anyone cares to search for it.

A very competent machinist might be able to machine out the OEM ball joint and replace it with another aftermarket one but the time and cost involved in reliably doing so probably won't be cheap. I know I like to get paid for time spent working...

I'd like to hear about other ideas. One idea that has been expressed before is replacing the OEM control arms with aftermarket control arms, I don't see an easy, well priced, reliable way to go about this.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

How tough would it be to maintain the exact suspension geometry with aftermarket?

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

What exactly is this part:

http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Mazd...3S-RX-7-51515#

The site lists "pillow *****" and bushings separately, as well as the ball joint boots referenced here. Is this not the ball joint itself?

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

That part number (8AB232280) is for tie rods according to mazdapartscheap.com.

ArmitageGVR4

iTrader: (13)

Apparently aftermarket A-arms are available. But it'll cost more than an OEM replacement anyway.

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=512

Notice how in the picture, like other cars that have replaceable ball joints, they're held in with a snap ring. If our cars don't have one, I can understand why it has been said that they will just fall out if not welded in place. An alternative is to have a lip machined in the control arm so you can use a suitable replacement joint with snap ring. Though if they weren't manufactured like that I wonder if there's a reason for it. Perhaps the OEM aluminum piece isn't strong enough to retain the joint this way?