I've had noise coming from my t/o or pilot bearing for a couple thousand miles now. Hasn't gotten worse yet, but I'm going to replace both shortly.

But I also get slightly weird noises and notchiness from the synchros. Could the additional friction caused by bad bearings in the bellhousing be felt when shifting? I feel the synchros 'slap' a little on some shifts, and I also hear a zippy sound like 'zeeuuum' after I pop it in the next gear but before releasing the clutch. Should I plan to open the gearbox? If so, where should I be looking?

TIA. It just occurred to me I should see if double-clutching fixes the meshing problems - I'll try that on my ride home from work today.

Dave

 

A couple of things. If you are having problems with your throw-out bearing then you may not be getting complete disengagement from the fly wheel and that is causing grinding during shifts. If that is not the case, then it is most likely a problem with the synchros. You did not say how many miles are on the tranny so it is hard to say and I do not know your driving style, but usually when you hit the century mark (100,000 miles) the synchros will begin to show their age. That said, once you do a rebuild for the synchros you are well ahead to swap-out the bearings just as part of a good transmission rehab.

 

The car has 60k on it, and I don't know if the flywheel is original. I do know the PP is an ACT but nothing about when it was installed and what other parts were replaced. I'm not getting grinding, rather, sometimes it feels like a firm click in the shifter going into gear, esp. 1st to 2nd.

My driving style is pretty cushy, but I've only owned it for the last 8k. I want this stuff fixed before I take it to the track and start really loading it. Engine is basically stock power level. Is it possible to inspect the synchros and gears without getting into the gear puller game?

Thanks.

 

If you are just experiencing nothiness, I would not be too worried. A bit of notchiness is actually a good sign that things are still lining up in the shifter assembly. What you may want to do is change out your gear oil and put in Red Line gear oil. It seems to be a popular preference on the site. At 60,000 miles I would say it is still too soon to be having serious synchro problems, but if it was banged around hard before you got the car then who knows. In either case, changing the gear oil is cheaper than a rebuild. Try that first. Pay attention to what has accumulated around the drain plug and what is in the oil itself (i.e., metal shavings, grit, other debris, etc.)

 

Mmmkay, sounds like a good plan. I already put Redline Lightweight Shockproof about 5k ago, but I haven't checked on it lately. Oil looked ok when replaced then.

I did try double-clutching the whole way home, and didn't get any bumpy shifts doing it that way. Perhaps it's just one bad synchro tooth.

Dave

 

If double clutching is reducing your problem, then it suggests that your synchros may be getting worn. If you are not getting grinding during shifts, then they are not completely gone. The only way to know for sure is to disassemble the tranny and check the inner face of the synchros for wear. You can look up into the main gearing of the transmission by removing the bottom plate, but it probably will not tell you much about the condition of the synchros because the important surface is not visible. Synchros work like mini-clutches slowing (or increasing) the speed of the selected gear hub to the speed of the drive shaft so that you no longer need to double clutch. Synchros are cone-shaped and the inside surface of the cone is the most important part to the function of a synchro. Unfortunately, in the gearbox it is not visible without disassembly. There are also sharp points on the face of each tooth on a synchro that are important to the function of the synchros. Those could be inspected from underneath and if dull may be enough to justify a rebuild.

Sounds to me like you have a worn transmission, but one that is not quite ready for a rebuild--unless you really need to have that snick snick new feel.

 

Well maybe I'll make it a big winter project. Problem is space, I think - only a 1-car garage and not much workbench.

So you're saying that because I need to inspect the inner surfaces of the synchros (friction surfaces, right?) then I need to remove each gearshaft in the tranny and remove all the parts from it to make a good determination. Is there a gear puller tool that can do all the important stuff in the tranny and not break the bank?

I just wonder if buying new synchros will add up in $$ quickly. And yeah, I'd really prefer that snick-snick feel if I can regain it for a reasonable cost.

Thanks for your help.

Dave

 

You're going to need one long-*** bearing pulller for the first bearing you encounter. Most simply devise a puller of their own using basic mechanical sense. Do a search on here and you should be able to find some the devices others have come up with. All of the other bearings can be carefully pried out of the housing as you disassemble the tranny. Each synchro assembly is going to run you about $35-40 apiece. Bearings will run about $10-15 apiece. It would be a good winter project, but it depends on your patience and your ability to keep about 50 different parts in order. You also need to give careful attention to how they are positioned one to the other. This is an advanced course at the old tech school. And the FD tranny is one of the more complicated to rebuild. But, if you do it yourself, then you will feel a definite sense of accomplishment guaranteed.

 

Like Jd to Rescue said, it sounds like you might need new syncros. I would first check the clutch pedal free play and all the clutch linkages.

 

Also, you might be able to just replace the synchro sleeves, it would be alot cheaper.

 

What gear puller would work for pulling everything I need to pull (Tools on a budget, of course)

Dave

 

Dave I hear my bearing too and I have 65k miles on my car. It gets quieter once the car is warmed up. I plan to wait until this winter and do this project. I plan to do the close ratio 5th too.

Do you have a short shifter? That in itself will make some noise in the cockpit.

 

No, stock shifter with all new bushings. The noise is definitely down in the bellhousing area and it does go down when warm. I can handle a noisy bearing, but I don't want the races to spall and seize or shatter. That would be Bad.

Zach, you gonna do yours on a lift? Or do you have access to a tranny jack? I'm trying to find a way to avoid buying the cheapie tranny jack at Harborfreight.

Dave