When in nuetral, the rpm's can move throughout the range. However, if you give the throttle more than "just enough to make the rpm's rise" the motor will cut out and the RPM's will drop very quickly. The same is true when you are driving the car. You can accelerate, but not very quickly. If you push down the throttle much more than barely (and I mean barely) the motor will cut out and die. The check engine light goes on also. So i bought the car to the dealer and they pull the codes and sayed that the car has a bad oil metering pump and that i needs a new one. The cost is 2,000 for parts and 1,000 for labor. Thats a 3,000 dollars bill. I don't know what to do. Can i buy a used one and have them do the work? How hard is it to change? Anyone have one for sale?

 

the oil metering pump is on the next the the turbo's in the front of the engine.

you should be able to get a good one of the for sale section. Its not a easy part to change with the engine in, the turbo and most of the intake pluming is in the way.

first thing you need to do is stop going to the dealer for your rx7 and find a good rotary shop in your area, With tech's who actually understand the car.

 

I know the dealer is not the best place but i don't know any one closer then 2 hours away.
What is needed to come out to change the oil metering pump?turbos?

 

I changed mine w/ the Turbos in. Search under my name, I made a how-to awhile ago. I don't believe it is $2k for a new one though. More like a few hundred. I got a newer one off a low mile Cosmo engine, and the wiring was a little different but the actual unit bolted right up.

Look at the main crank pulley, then just below and to the pass. side, you will see a metal cylinder sticking off the front plate (towards pass. side). That is it, take out everything you need to access it.

 

Depending on your level of mechanical ability, the replacement of the oil metering pump is completely do-able. For someone with at least average skills, there should be no problem. The IC piping will need to be removed, the accessory belts will need to be removed, the undertray will need to be removed, and probably the AST. Once you have these items out of the way, you should have clear enough access to the metering pump to remove the mounting bolts. One thing you will need to be careful of inorder to avoid making this a bigger job is the oil metering lines. Depending on the age of the vehicle, these may have become brittle. If brittle and you force or stress them too much, you can break them. That will mean you will need to replace the lines as well. Replacing the lines will require the removal of the UIM and other components to re-install those lines into the proper position. Take your time, get ahold of things with the right tools and you should be okay. Also install a new o-ring seal with the new (used?) pump.

 

Unless the part price has gone up a lot in the last 3 years, that's a rip-off. My OMP was replaced 3-1/2 years ago under warranty for a total of ~ $2300, IIRC. This was at a rotary specialist who charges $100/hour. I believe the part listed for $1500 at that time.

However, before doing anything, you need to verify that the pump is actually bad. A wiring problem will also throw a code and cause the "limp home" mode you are experiencing. I suggest you download a factory service manual and determine the exact code yourself, or take it to a rotary shop -- a 2-hour drive would be worth it.

You can get a used pump or get a new one from Malloy Mazda -- talk to Ray Crowe in parts and you will get near dealer cost on the part (or any part for that matter!).

 

I have a used one is good shape. If you end up needing one PM me.

 

Do you have to drop the motor sub-fram?

 

I usually do them from the bottom by lowering down the subframe. Most of the time the oil pan on these cars is leaking and its only a bit more work to re-seal it once the subframe is down. Its possible to get to the omp from the top also. I prefer to do it from the bottom. I've seen the wiring come loose from its retaining clips on the front cover and get sucked into the drive belts. Take a look at the wiring to see if its mangled also.

 

Yep, right now the harness for my MOP is damaged, and my car is experiencing the same problems. Only difference is that I know for fact its the wire. .

mark1rx7, have you tested the voltage coming from the OMP?

 

no i didn't

 

mark1rx7,

Are you sure it's the actual pump and not the stepping motor or the sensor? I would try to get a read out of the codes yourself. The actual pump is inside the front cover. Basically, everything has to come off the front of the engine as well as dropping the oil pan to replace it. You may as well do a full engine rebuild instead of just having the pump replaced (unless it's on a fresh motor).

If it's just the stepping motor and/or sensor, those are on the outside of the engine (front passenger side). While still a pain to get to, definitely NOT near as bad as the actual pump.

 

Good point! What Mahjik is referring to as the stepping motor is what Mazda calls the metering oil pump (FSM D-14). There is an oil pump internal to the engine, however(FSM D-16). Because the dealership may not know the distinction, you should make sure what is really the bad part. Read the codes yourself or get someone who knows what is what to read the codes. Your problem sounds more like what you would expect if the oil pump was bad.

 

The dealer told my it was the pump and the motor it a reman with about 20k on it. I think friday its going to be changed. i found some one on the froums to change it for me.

 

Do you guys think it is safe to drive the car with the bad omp home from the dealer?

 

The only oil pump inside the engine is the actual engine oil pump. The OMP is completely self contained and bolts onto the front cover. The OMP houses both a stepping motor which operates a valve to control the amount of oil pumped as well as an actual single piston pump to push the oil up through the tubes and into the motor. All the front cover does is provide an accessory drive to operate the piston inside the OMP. All gens' OMP function this way, it's just that the FD makes the metering valve electronic rather than mechanical.

Have a look:

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...1&postcount=55

If the OMP did not have it's own pump built in then the Rotary Aviation adaptor which allows you to plumb a seperate source of OMP oil would not work.

 

You may want to premix some MMO in the mean time.

Joe

 

That's the way I understood it. I just do not know if the dealership where this car was taken understands that. You have two pumps that could be the problem. The price quoted for labor and parts sounded like the internal pump. The OMP should not cost that much in labor ($1,000.00) to replace.

 

No, there is only one pump that can be a problem: the OMP. The OMP is completely self contained and only uses the engine as power to drive the OMP's self contained pump and as the supply of oil for the OMP's pump.

If his actual oil pump that supplies the entire engine with oil were bad he would not need a code checker to know!

 

Well, you and I do not really know what is going on with this car. I am just concerned that he is going to get talked into a repair that does not fix his problem or pay more than he should to fix his problem. In addition, the engine oil pump does not necessarily go into total failure; it may simply not be maintaining adequate pressure because of wear. (See FSM D-16 for the recommended inspection) I also suspect the oil sending unit would trigger a code if adequate pressure was not being maintained.

 

None of what you just listed would cause a CEL code for the OMP nor will it cause the car to go into limp mode!

He has an OMP problem and the ecu knows it so it's tripping the CEL, storing an error code for the OMP and staying in limp mode! The ecu has no idea wtf the engine oil pump or engine oil pressure is doing. The ecu will happily let your engine run at low or no oil pressure and yet not trigger the CEL because the ecu doesn't know or care!

 

Exactly. I have never seen the actual engine oil pump inside the front cover completely fail. They do wear out, but generally you see this when you are rebuilding the motor.

 

What I do not understand in this whole matter is why the dealership is quoting him $1,000.00 for labor to replace the OMP. I am not a certified mechanic and I can swap an OMP in a dedicated effort in an hour and a half on the car and without the aid of an auto lift. Allowing a little flexibility in the equation, it should not take more than 3 hours. The price he is being quoted is more in line with the main engine oil pump. In addition, I am also not arguing that a problem with the main oil pump is going to throw an OMP CEL code. I understand that these are two separate pumps operating under their separate mechanical means. Separate and apart from all this, I am not convinced, despite your protestations, that the oil sending unit will not trigger a code of some sort if there is inadequate engine oil pressure. On that, however, I will make my own inquiries when I have more time to page thru the shop manual.

 

Could be several things. The pump itselft is very expensive. Over $1000 last I checked. The labor quote is pretty high though. Even if the dealership charges $100 an hour, its not a 10 hour job. At most 5-6 hours by the book. I think they just have no idea what they are getting into. Alot of this has to do with how little of these cars there are around and the dealerships never recieved the proper training on them. Thats why there are better options than taking these cars to the dealership.

 

Apparently, this dealership separately quoted this guy $2,000.00 for the OMP. Malloy can tell us what the real price is. So the $1,000.00 is the labor alone. That's just nuts.