Okay, my 93 non seq RX7 is sputtering at 3k rpm s and won't go past. Rebuild time? time to look at the injectors? spark is missing? anyone go through this? When I was driving home last night I never heard any detonation on the way to my friends. But when I was driving back I tried to accelerate and it started sputtering and shouting sparks(read sparks, not flames) consistently. I just got it back from the non seq conversion. Is there a possibility my mechanic forgot to tighten the plugs/injectors in tight enough and it has come loose?

All I'm asking of you is to tell me your opinion what to check and how to tell if it's my injectors plugs or time for a rebuild. thanks in advance.

 

you took it to a mechanic to make it non sequential?

was it working before you took it to the mechanic?
if so sequentially or non-sequential?

 

was this a rotary experienced shop?

sounds like your mechanic messed something up

 

Yeah the engine was fine but the turbo's were a little weak. So it just went out, out of nowhere. But, the injectors did sputter at 6k RPM's before I took it in.

 

Yeah, he used to own the car and have a rotary only shop. I drove it for about 300 miles since it's been converted.

 

What do you mean the turbos were weak?

Vacuum? Compression? Check the spark with a timing light?

 

Ok, my opinion on this...
Flames indicate unburded fuel exiting the engine, igniting, then departing through the exhaust. That's ok, farely normal on a modified car, and doesn't necessarily mean engine failure.

Sparks indicate that metalic pieces are passing through the exhaust. So what could it be?? Sparks indicate something has failed. Could be that a turbine has failed and sent a chunk of blade downwind into the CAT causing the honeycomb structure to break apart...Could mean that the CAT has failed on it's own and now limiting that amount of exhaust gases that can pass through which could explain the rpm limit. I've even seen a bad muffler do this. Sparks, rpm limit, all due to the fact a baffle had rusted inside the muffler and would block off the exhaust flow at a certain rpm.

Basically, sparks mean something has failed mechanically, but in your case a 3k rev limit doesn't mean the engine is bad.

Do a compression check first just to help you sleep at night. If it's ok, then look for the mechanical failure aft of the rotor exhaust port, and what caused it....mixture?....turbo?....etc.

Steve

 

I've got a 4 inch turbo back greddy exhaust, so could it be the turbine?

 

I'd recommend taking the car to a real rotary shop, like Rotary Performance or Gotham Racing, both located in the dallas/fort worth area of texas.

this thread is like throwing darts blindfolded.

 

I'm not asking for specifics, I'm asking how to test potential problems. But thanks for turning this into another thread about where to take your car.

 

I think GoodfellaFD3S is just trying to help you protect your investment and not promote a shop. Why don't you take it back to the shop that the previous owner of the car owns and did the non-seq conversion? If it is a "rotory only" shop then have them check it out and post your results. I'd be interested in that.

 

I'd like to learn a little bit more about the car too, and doing a compression test would be very educational for me. I've been told by Goodfellas(more or less someone like him) to go to a rotary shop every step of the way. But they've never offered any real insight as to what I can do myself. It's not like I'm ripping into the core, I'm doing simple tests so when I do, in fact, call my mechanicm I can answer some questions and provide test results so he won't have to.

 

Probably not. A broken apex seal isn't even enough to dislodge a piece of a turbine, they just kind of gnarl up the edges. They're pretty tough.

You need to start with the basics. Compression and spark.

 

The problem is, if you really could do these things yourself; you would have already cracked open the FSM and started working through its troubleshooting sections.

Have you looked in the FSM yet? They have MANY pages which are used to narrow down what components could cause what issues.

 

A novice can cause serious damage while doing something as simple as a compression test by cross threading the plugs or tester. It's not as easy as a straight 4-cyl or something like that. You can't see what you're doing and there are some weird angles to work with.

 

I've already got the plug wires off, and know which order they go back on. just getting off the injector wires now, then going to crank the motor.

 

BTW, This "rotary only" mechanic is worthless. He might as well take it to the dealer. Sean, you don't need to take off the injector clips, just unplug the EGI fuse. OH and did I ever give you that CD I copied of the FSM?

 

Bingo.

tulsa, I feel that I gave you pretty good advice, and with the attitude you've shown in this thread that's about all you'll get from me.....the majority of members on here will agree that I'm very helpful when the OP asks informed, educated questions and offers informed, relevant details

Edit: based on your initial post, the motor isn't blown, I wouldnt bother with a compression test. It's an issue with spark or fuel, when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

 

What, did I kill this thread ?

Tulsa, also, I wasn't trying to promote for any particular shop, but I do know that Chris and Ari over at RP and Alex at Gotham are very very knowledgeable with these cars and could get your problems worked out for you

 

Thanks, but It's not like I've never heard of Gotham racing, RP, or any other big name "LOOK AT ALL THE FD'S IN THE GARAGE!" shops. I'm just asking for personal insight on what it might be.