I went to KDR awhile ago and dave said my idle air control valve was bad.So today I did a oum reading on it and came out 12.6 in the manual it says it should be btwn. 10 and 12.5 ish.....When I did the testI wasnt sure if it was the right valuve because I didnt take off the U.I.M. it was a pain in the *** to take off . I went behind it and down low and saw what looked liked the idle air control valve, But it was marked b.a.c.v. Im not sure if it was the right one that I was getting a reading off of. but if it were then my idle air control valve isnt bad after all.
This part is 350....!!!!!form Malloy and I just dont want to get the wrong part.Everytime I shift from 1st.-2nd and have my foot down on the clutch the rpm will drop all the way down till it stalls. And also when I'm at a light a tap the gas I will stall.Has anyone had these kind of symptoms with there car's Im also runnung a power fc.

 

If your ohm meeter readout was 12.6 I would not replace the unit on that basis. I would think there are other factors which could cause your problems. Surely all vacuum lines need to be checked and the components which run off vacuum. These may be connected but leak internally. I would hope your throttle sensor is set correctly and the two idle speed base adjustments. The external throttle stop and the internal air bleed. Hang around a while and someone else will chime in.

 

It is probably impossible to get at the connectors for the ACV without removing the LIM. There are 3 solenoids on the ACV. If it has never been removed the connectors are tucked underneath the ACV.

I believe you are testing the ISC (idle speed control); it has resistance reading very close to some of the ACV readings.

I have tested and swapped out ACVs in the past when the resistances were a little off and had no noticeable change. However you need to check yours to verify it is bad.

The good news even if it is bad, you can buy one from one of the members very cheap. Since these are quite often removed for single set ups and simplification.

 

It sounds as if your dashpot could be bad. It prevents the rpms from dropping drastically when you let off the gas. If you are on the driver's side of the car, look at the throttle body towards the front of the car. There is a flying saucer shaped device, the dashpot. It will have a white colored peg coming out of it. Push it into the housing; it should be somewhat hard to push in.

For more details look on F-134 of the service manual. If it is bad you could replace it with either a 2nd or 3rd gen part.

 

Thats a great suggestion, the pot slows down the throttle plates when closing. Its there to burn off extra fuel but does help the engine transition to idle.

 

[QUOTE=books]It is probably impossible to get at the connectors for the ACV without removing the LIM. QUOTE]



im sure you ment to say UIM. and not LIM.

 

Guys lets drop the acronyms, I am a acronymic.

 

Yep, meant the Upper Intake Manifold (UIM) not the Lower Intake Manifold (LIM)

 

Thanks books I checked that page and I will test it.

 

I just read your original post again. I believe KDR was telling you that the idle speed control valve is bad; I also believe that is the device you tested. As another forum member stated, probably 0.1ohm will not have an impact. Perhaps it is just gunked up, in addition to checking the dashpot I would spray some injector cleaner in the throttle body.

 

I'm pretty sure he said the idle air control valve.Why do you think it's the idle speed control valve?And how would I spray injector clealer in the throttle body, do I need to take off the throttle body??Is It a pain in the ***.

 

I suspect he was indicating the ISC and not the ACV because of the use of the word idle in the descriotion. As you have noted the device you are looking at has a.c.v on it., that device is the ISC. I beleive the service manual uses a couple of different names for the same device.

Some more thoughts…. Since you have the Power Fuel Computer (PFC) you can just disconnect the ISC and see how the engine performs. With a PFC, It is possible to drive the car without the ISC connected. While you can isolate whether it is an electrical issue, a short or open or a bad ISC, the solenoid may still be stuck in an open or closed position. This is why I suggested some injector cleaner. You can do this a couple of ways the easist would be to disconnect the little (3/4") hose that is attached to the elbow of the throttle body and spray the cleaner in there while activating the throttle cable.

One more thing, you can also apply 12 volts to the solenoid and listen for a clicking sound to indicate it may be working.