nobody has set it up yet, I'm thinking that is the problem, my father thinks it is ignition timing. Anyone recommend a good place for maps? Also do I just have to enter every value by hand since I don't have a datalogit and can't load full maps? Lilroach lent me his commander (thanks again) and he has the same edition PFC so if it doesn't work then I know I have serious issues.

 

So what other mods did you do at the time of replacing the motor and going single? Sorry, I just trying to get more back ground information.

Like did you change injector sizes?
Did you pull all your emissions crap off at this time also?

There is a setting in the ETC. section for seq turbo control on and off. That should be off now. But I don't think that will cause the problems you're having though.

 

emissions have been deleted, same exact fuel setup was kept

mods in sig

 

Have you cut the harness to bits when you deleted all of the emissions stuff? If not, you could plug the emissions relays back in (or just some resistors) to the harness and plug in your stock ECU to eliminate the PFC programming.. as long as you have stock primaries in there, it should run well enough to at least idle and rev.


Nevermind.. just noticed you have 850 primaries.

 

So the powerfc was setup before with ur 850/1600 setup?

all i know is stock maps should be fine for single turbo with stock injectors as long as you dont boost it.

I had simliar problems like that when i was setting up my single.

things to look at...

when u said ur fuel pressure doesnt drop until the car shuts off...does that mean it drops to 0. Or it starts dropping slowly when the car shuts off. Cause if it drops straight to 0. most likely one of the orings on ur injectors busted and it might be flooding out one rotor, or maybe two, but u said you only find gas in one of them.or u have a fat leak. That happend to me because i reversed the lines going to my fuel pressure regulator so it would crank up and start fine, and since the fpr lines were mixed it wouldnt let any fuel out back to the tank, the pressure would build up and just pop my orings on my injectors and flood the engine. It happend to me about 4 times. til i called sard and asked...which lines goes to which, and what do ya know, its the other way around. OHHHHHHH. problem solved there for me.

Do you get any smoke when u start the engine up? whats it smell like?

Have you tried adjusting the throttle cable like someone suggested.

When u crank it over and it starts up, does hitting the gas not help it stay on?

 

So you pulled all the emissions stuff off at the time of the rebuild and the single? Sorry just trying to clarify things.

-Your timing maps should be fine to start the car and idle, even if the porting changed, for the most part.
-Your fuel injector settings should be fine to start the car if nothing was changed here when the single turbo and new motor went in.
-Your fuel maps should be ok to start the car also. I wouldn’t think you would need to change anything here tell you actually start driving it.
-Like stated before, did you ever verify the fuel lines are in the correct order?

Could be something emission related that was removed?
When you do plug in your friend’s commander verify that you are on the correct settings for you MAP sensor (Normal).
Then go to the sensor check screen and verify the others are reading correctly.

I had a similar problem when I removed my S-AFC from my FD. I just disconnected the S-AFC from the harness and thought it would be good. Nope the map sensor was “open” and the car would start then dies immediately. So check that you map sensor is working properly also.

But if you friends commander does the same thing as the first one, I’m going to blame the PFC and or a bad/incorrect electrical connection.

Just trying to help.
Joe

 

and another thing, DONT GIVE UP! i never have so far. Now im finally boosting! a year and a half later.

 

check and make sure your cas's arent cracked or loose? also fuel, air combustion spark cause combustion we all now this eliminate options by going throu each you say your getting spark and fuel correct? i know this sounds weird but try a compression test? maybe something internal is fuked up (hopefully not but you never know.

 

mahjik he said earlier that he cannot get past the splash screen on the commander. this may be ok it may not. but it is tough to trouble shoot a cars systems when the ecu is suspect. he should be able to check injector sizing option setting etc. this may just be a bad commander idk, idk if it would cause the issues he is having. but it is where i would start

unless i misread something somewhere

 

Compression is def good, getting fuel and gettign spark. Good news is the borrowed commander works (I'll have to buy lilroach some dinner sometime), I have a v. 5.08 PFC. The 850/1600cc setup and the PFC were both unchanged, I ran both the same before conversion and have not changed them.

I'll check and see if the fuel prssure drops right to zero as soon as a friend comes over to crank while i watch it.

Might be my MAP sensor, what am I looking for on the sensor test screen (sorry first use of a commander)? Also how do I get it out of Jap?

Giving it gas once it starts just results in it immediately dying. Holding it wide open and starting makes it die quicker than normal.

I do get smoke, and it's easy to smell since my v-band is leaking. Def smells like gas. Although I'm running premix 100:1 (OMP disabled) so there is a little oil in her too.

It's 50 degrees here in PA today and all the snow melted off my steep driveway. I'm getting this thing running today!

 

also I get fuel soaked plugs in both rotors but only in the Trailing position

 

id do the fuel pressure test thing. and then after that check the orings on the primary and secondary injectors.

hope it works. if any of them are cracked, u might be able to find ones that fit at ur local auto parts store. specially for injectors.

For all u know, ur injectors could just be stuck open. and that would make it flood out i think. If ur fuel pressure drops quickly, that would definately be a culprit.

Better stuck open then closed (just like a wastegate!)

 

What do you mean by Jap, is it not in english?

They only japanese I see on mine is under the Function Select screen. Its the on and off characters for things like seq turbo control, 02 feedback and a few others.


Under the sensor check screen if you see any highlighed (black) voltages that would be one area to look at. If the voltages are 0 or 4.98 volts then that could be a problem also with the associated sensor.

Actually post up what you see in that screen.
Thanks
Joe

 

Exactly what I just ran otu and did. My digi cam is broken but I took a pic with my camera phoen and e-mailed it to myself.

EVERY sensor is highlighted except for Water Temp and 02 and the thing is I don't even have an O2 (this is probably because I have 02 feedback diabled in the options.! My TPS values change when I move the throttle but not to the values they should. I was fearing this, I'm going to have to pull the whole wiring harness and recheck everything.

This explains a lot though. I can't imagine ALL of these sensors are wired wrong. I mean that's an awful lot of mistakes when all I was actually doing was removing unnecessary wires from emissions stuff that I had removed.

Yeah the Jap I was talking abotu was the enabled/disabled stuff, but I got a copy of the manual and now i know what they mean.

Well after I eat I'm tearing into the wiring harness because this thing is running soon. When the key is in the on position (car not running) should the exh. temp light be out if everythign is ok?

Any advice (besides "buy a new harness")?

 

Takes about 2.5 to 3 seconds for it to drop once the car totally dies. Of course it starts dropping as the RPMs drop off right before it dies, so I guess if I ran it then shut it off before it had time to die on it's own it might keep pressure a little longer.

 

is the harness grounded?

 

yeah, one goes to the uim, one goes to the intermediatry (sp?) housing, then i have one from the uim to the firewall, and a couple more from the engine to the fenders and stuff. Now the ground has to go through a long set of jumper cables, this is how I've been runnign the car because I haven't finished the batter relocation. but I connect the negative clamp right to a thick gauge wire that used to go to the negative battery terminal. That same wire connects the fender with the engine. I can add some more gorunds, think this may be it? So all the necessary sensors should not be highlighted black when the key is in the ON posititon?

 

Correct, They should not be highlighted with the key in the on position.

Yes redo some of your grounds. Also measure the resistance (with the cars power off) between one ground connection and another. They should be very small resistance values on them. Nothing more then one ohm or so.

All the sensors are highlighted huh? Wow. This is new to me. Yes, double check all the emissions stuff that you removed.

*still scratching my head and pondering*

 

Didnt read much of the tread... if you have taken the intake off. check for an intake leak on the UIM.

 

def no intake leak.

OK now my GD starter stopped working, the starter switch light on the commander doesn't come on anymore. I heard some clicking on the drivers side by my left foot, down by the fuse box. This was with the key on. The clicking sounded like a relay working, but it was random. Now what could THIS be from?

 

Could this be a clue that you have an ignition switch problem, maybe related to all the other non-start problems?

 

I agree with the ignition switch problem or even the clutch switch issues. Kick the clutch in and out a few times or turn the key on and off a few times. It will grab a again. I have the same problem with mine and I've tracked it down to those two items. However I can live with mine so I haven't replaced anything to verify that.

But I still think you have greater issues with all the sensors highlighted under the PFC.

 

possibly, i just tested the starter by hard wiring it, and it starts the car right up. The problem is def. in the ignition switch. Not sure how to test this though, also what was the noise coming from by the interior fuse box? Is there a relay used there?

What to do?

 

It's not a clutch switch problem, it has replaced less than 1000 miles ago, plus I tested it's continuity and it checks out. It must be the ignition switch. It did start acting up right before it finally quit.

This isn't the main problem, just another side problem that I now have! Does this mean time for a whole new switch? Anyone know a price?

 

actually how about I just wire in a start button. I can't find a wiring diagram to know which wires to use. Also does it need to break the "ON position" connection while it's trying to start (the reason the radio goes off when starting) or is that just to use all the power for the starter? Like if I want to wire in a start button all I need to do is connect power to one side and the wire coming off the "start position" of the stock ignition switch to the other side?