Members,
I need some help with this damn starter click which is back again. These are the things I`ve done so far.


New starter
Battery
Starter Ignition switch
New Battery cables

Can`t believe this **** is back.

Battery volts is 12.6 Just can`t seem to put my fingers on it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Andre


Can anyone tell me where is the starter relay and the inhibitor switch on the automatics.

 

Have you tried to put power directly to the solenoid that is attached to the starter? Basically your adding a starter button and bypass all the other stuff that could be a problem. I replaced the starter and that didn't work, and I tired the above and it worked, so I didn't pursue what the problem was. Someone has said that there is a wire harness that could be a fault and has been updated by Mazda, but I am not sure. Starter buttons are the in thing anyway. Search and you can find more details. I have an auto also but it seems to happen to many manuals also. Good luck

 

what's a starter ignition switch?? do you mean the ignition switch or are you talking about something else?

have you checked that the ignition switch is still plugged in? it falls out easily, it's basically just a slide on/slide off piece. there are 3 or 4 little copper prongs on there that if lose electrical conductivity the car will no longer run (and you'll get clicking). while you're in the ignition area make sure the harness(es) aren't toast, and that any wiring which has been crimped or soldered is not coming apart. it is common to see cars with turbo timers or aftermarket sterios/alarms tapping into the wires in the area and when it comes undone you'll experience clicking when trying to start the car.

a little bit more info of your problem though would help a lot.

 

I have already tried to fix the ignition switch behind the key tumbler, then i just replaced the switch itself. Coming to think of it i had some aftermarket alarm issue so I`ll look into it. Also, I`ll check the wires going to the turbo timer tomorrow.


thanks

 

There was a recall issued only for auto's that added a harness to provide more current to the starter. My 7 had this done, but I never felt it was enough. I actually removed mine and ran a heavier gauge wire from the ignition switch to the starter. Worked like a charm.

 

andre, I got tired of this same problem years ago, especially after shelling out big bucks for a new starter only to have the same problem. I just simply use a heavy duty push button starter I have concealed under the steering column. I still use the ignition key to secure the car and it has to be in the 'on' position, but then I just push the button and it has worked perfect for over 6 years now. I did a write up on it when I did it, as you MUST keep the stock spade connector on the 'S' terminal or else you will get an ABS fault, for some strange reason. I just used a dual-spade terminal and it works like a charm.
To me, this is the easiest way to 'solve' this problem. You can replace $300 starters and $450 ignition switches and STILL have this problem, so why not take the easy way? Yes, this is coming from a person who is pretty damned rigid on keeping the car as stock as possible....lol!

 

Bajaman,
Thanks for the response... I’ve been fighting this problem for quite some time now and ever time I think I’ve solved it I always seem to surface up again. I was thinking of a push button switch like the S2000. However, I didn’t want any problems with the check engine codes (ABS etc).

If you have the write up or a link where I can see what needs to be done I’d greatly appreciate it. Not too confident on the electrical since these cars are prone to fires.

Thanks again

Andre

 

Andre, it is pretty straightforward. All you need to do is to run a relatively heavy wire from your battery, like a 10 gauge, to one side of a heavy duty push button ignition switch available at any parts store. Run another same-size wire from the other side of the switch to the 'S' terminal on the starter, this is the terminal that has a single black spade connector on it. This is the terminal you will want to retain otherwise you will get an ABS fault, you can't just leave it unconnected in other words, so you get a dual spade terminal, put on your starter, and hook both the stock wire PLUS the wire from your new switch too. Find a good place to put your starter button and you are all set. I put my wire inside a flexible wire loom and of course you will want to put an in-line fuse, like a 30 or 50 amp, on the wire going from your battery to your switch.

 

Thanks, I`ll let you know how it turns out.

 

Hi Andre: Does the issue occur on intial startup (cold motor)? or after sometime driving?