Automatic aftermarket ecu...
#1
Black Pearl
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Automatic aftermarket ecu...
Any help is very much needed. I have the following upgrades to my car and i am having problems...
hks 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat)
lightweight pullies
hks intake kit
greddy intercooler piping w/ elbow (not sure if this counts )
So I think i am getting fuel/boost cut at higher rpm's (13psi). My car burps/hiccups bad. smells really rich at idle. I have heard that some guys use the PFC on their automatic FDs and that is for 5spd cars right??
I want to use an aftermarket (pre-tuned) ecu but was wondering if it will work. Such as this item from ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-M...Q5fAccessories
Again any help is appreciated. Thanks.
hks 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat)
lightweight pullies
hks intake kit
greddy intercooler piping w/ elbow (not sure if this counts )
So I think i am getting fuel/boost cut at higher rpm's (13psi). My car burps/hiccups bad. smells really rich at idle. I have heard that some guys use the PFC on their automatic FDs and that is for 5spd cars right??
I want to use an aftermarket (pre-tuned) ecu but was wondering if it will work. Such as this item from ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-M...Q5fAccessories
Again any help is appreciated. Thanks.
#2
watashi no shichi
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It's do'able. It's a little pricey to buy the parts and assemble the board but its very do'able to chip the euc's and get a little extra out of them.
I've socketed a few ecu's and still continue to develop on them from time to time.
There is a thread running around here with the stock ignition and fuel maps posted that I posted.
It's not a chore to increase the maps or decrease.. just takes a little time.
I've socketed a few ecu's and still continue to develop on them from time to time.
There is a thread running around here with the stock ignition and fuel maps posted that I posted.
It's not a chore to increase the maps or decrease.. just takes a little time.
#7
Ling Ling
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looks like you have boost creap. you removed all backpressure in the exhaust and (the cats) and the stock wastegate can no longer vent enough exhaust to keep boost at 10psi. to fix it you need to port the wastegate and youll probubally need to put a little bit more restriction back in the exhaust, something like a high flow cat.
untill you fix this you should stay out of boost because more boost (on the stock ecu) = lean afr's which = detonation which = death to rotary!
untill you fix this you should stay out of boost because more boost (on the stock ecu) = lean afr's which = detonation which = death to rotary!
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#8
Constant threat
You can also use a Peter Farrel Supercars PMC - Powertrain Management Computer (PFS Purple Computer) and retain the 'hold' function of the transmission. Old technology for sure but it works (when set up right).
#9
Full Member
Quite simply, i would purchase a regular out-of-the-box power FC. Obviously you have some ambitions for the car that are going to require a bit of tuning. As for the boost, as kyleaudio said, without sufficient backpressure, the factory internal wastegate cannot properly regulate boost pressure below 14 psi (i've tried porting the wastegate, but to no avail). At such high boost pressures, this will surely destroy your motor sooner than later without having an ECU capiable of making the necessary adjustments.
So... Bite the bullet, and buy a tunable computer (I'm no fan of "chipped" ECU's) and give yourself limitless possibilities of upgrades to your power output. The fact that it's automatic will only come into effect when you put over 400hp to the wheels.
So... Bite the bullet, and buy a tunable computer (I'm no fan of "chipped" ECU's) and give yourself limitless possibilities of upgrades to your power output. The fact that it's automatic will only come into effect when you put over 400hp to the wheels.
#12
watashi no shichi
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Because I haven't made much of anything public is my fault but the PowerFC holds nothing next to the stock ECU - even in terms of processing power.
The one advantage it has over the stock box is the ability to modify the calibration without additional components. Lately, I've been working on a small daughter card to allow me to do just that - modify the calibration on the fly. I'm still a bit limited as I'm disassembling the code and trying to understand the relative pieces but all in all - it's not anything to joke about.
It's really hard to beat the money and energy Mazda spent on the calibration for the 13B engines.
I think the last option that the stock box doesn't have that the PFC does have is the ability to allow ign to float around a bit. :-)
Anyhow, the stock ecu with some flashing abilities is my route for the next daily driver FD.
Back on topic:
looks like you have boost creap. you removed all backpressure in the exhaust and (the cats) and the stock wastegate can no longer vent enough exhaust to keep boost at 10psi. to fix it you need to port the wastegate and youll probubally need to put a little bit more restriction back in the exhaust, something like a high flow cat.
untill you fix this you should stay out of boost because more boost (on the stock ecu) = lean afr's which = detonation which = death to rotary!
untill you fix this you should stay out of boost because more boost (on the stock ecu) = lean afr's which = detonation which = death to rotary!
Bingo!!! ;-)
Last edited by hwnd; 12-16-09 at 10:35 PM.
#13
Turd Ferguson
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PFC and automatics work fine out of the box. If you don't have the Banzai harness you loose the "hold" feature and could reduce your transmission longevity (no reliable proof on this). I drove my FD with no adapter harness for over 2 years with ZERO transmission problems and single turbo. I now run the Banzai adapter for a piece of mind.
The Banzai adapter is a good purchase for the auto transmission AS IS AN AFTERMARKET TRANSMISSION COOLER (yes, in addition to the stock transmission cooler).
We've got several folks around here in the high 300s with auto transmissions w/ no problems.
EDIT::
PFC is the typical tuning ECU of the FD. Like it or hate it, that's what most rotary tuners will have experience on. Howard Coleman's yahoogroup is aces for us DIYs.
The Banzai adapter is a good purchase for the auto transmission AS IS AN AFTERMARKET TRANSMISSION COOLER (yes, in addition to the stock transmission cooler).
We've got several folks around here in the high 300s with auto transmissions w/ no problems.
EDIT::
PFC is the typical tuning ECU of the FD. Like it or hate it, that's what most rotary tuners will have experience on. Howard Coleman's yahoogroup is aces for us DIYs.
#14
Black Pearl
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thanks for the input guys. Yeah, i don't have much plans for it right now. I need to put my other car in the shop (motor went out). I just wanted to use that pre-tune ecu so my car would run just a little better than it does right now. No joke, i get 215 miles per tank (filling it up full). And that goes both ways; smashing on it for the most part and driving like an old lady (slow). thanks again.
#16
dorito powered
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you're gonna get shitty gas mileage no matter which ecu you use, and odds are that "plug and play" one on ebay is tuned for performance, not economy. It's a rotary afterall, they just get shitty mileage, even the rx8s don't average better than 17 on a good week of city driving.
#17
Just installing a PFC or any other manual trans ECU in an automatic car causes more problems then just loosing the hold feature. The trans ECU looses all the inputs from the engine ECU, this makes the car not shift properly. It will not downshift when you come to a stop and it throws trans error codes. We have done a TON of testing on this.
You can install ANY manual trans ECU in the auto cars with our ECU adapter, including one of the reflashed OEM units. However, we recommend installing a tuneable ECU, as all cars need to be tweaked to their own characteristics and you may find that the reflashed unit makes your car run even richer then it currently does. Often times they are set up this way to cover lots of different mods.
You can install ANY manual trans ECU in the auto cars with our ECU adapter, including one of the reflashed OEM units. However, we recommend installing a tuneable ECU, as all cars need to be tweaked to their own characteristics and you may find that the reflashed unit makes your car run even richer then it currently does. Often times they are set up this way to cover lots of different mods.
#18
watashi no shichi
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However, we recommend installing a tuneable ECU, as all cars need to be tweaked to their own characteristics and you may find that the reflashed unit makes your car run even richer then it currently does. Often times they are set up this way to cover lots of different mods.
Did you disassemble the ROM itself?
How did you compare?
I've got a pretty big collection of ROMs from RE, KS, Pettit(copy of KS) and WORKS...
Have only seen fuel cut, ign & fueling maps changed.. RPM limit maybe.
Heck not even the wastegate maps are touched.. OMP isn't touched.
Just exactly what chips are you looking at? I'm eager to know! :-)
#23
im shorting out tat and gnd did it on both ground and its the same error two slow flashes of the hold and then 1 quick repeats after 4 sec its a 92 bat standed auto got me stumped did have a drive and the auto wouldnt change proplery hold button wouldnt work ill check the oil level today once its warm its been sitting for a few weeks and then this came up
#24
Rock*
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Tat & Gnd are right. Hmm.... That page is from the 94 USDM manual. Not sure if that makes any difference or not, I've never worked with a RHD
You say that the auto wouldn't change properly. Can you be a little more descriptive? (hold button won't work when hold light is flashing)
You say that the auto wouldn't change properly. Can you be a little more descriptive? (hold button won't work when hold light is flashing)
#25
yep bang on hold wont work at all with it flashing and not changing properly will hold high revs ill get it out today and have a drive , have even had earth off batery and pressed brake 3 tmes and re connected the battery still same error