Follow my link above PG96 on the doc or PG 38 of the PDF. These are pulsar hydraulic fittings. Ill have to check my car later to be 100% sure of the fitting i used but i believe they were 15973-18-08. Used them at the filter pedistal, at the front cover, and on the factory oil cooler openings. From there i was able to use JIC fittings and hydraulic hose for the rest of my system. Im really not sure why more people havent gone this route.

 

By going your route You wont be able to retain the stock R1 or R2 oil lines then.
I wanted to retain the stock oil lines so this was the route I chose.

 

Like I told you and Islanders reiterated - Nobody sells the fitting needed to convert a Auto trans cooler over to accept R1 oil cooler hoses. Find one and I will happily pull the Bullshit flag down to half mast on my part.

Now on a separate note, the fitting you bought on page 96 is the same as an Earls fitting I bought long ago when I converted my trans cooler over to -10AN hose. The problem I found was the 14mm side of it that screws into the trans cooler did not seat far enough for a good seal. It went in about 3 rounds, not far enough to suit me. If that one fitting came out of the cooler you would dump your entire oil pan in seconds and produce a meltdown.

So - I converted my existing trans fittings to a -10an. See my thread long ago.


This way the original trans cooler fittings seated deeply, had it own gasket, no leaks and I am happy.

Just a thought if you are running that fitting. Not trying to bust your *****, just deliver the facts.


Later

 

Look at the original pics of the fittings at the top of this thread. The OEM fitting has at least 6 revolutions with the oem gasket riding on a countersunk ridge. Good sealing surface.

Did your fittings have that depth ? The EARLS did not.


Later

 

I already said that those fittings are custom. When i first glanced over the thread I didnt pick up on the specifics of trying to use the R1/2 factory lines. Im sure your fitting is perfect for that. I noticed the guy who said to use a ORB to JIC fitting and I was trying to point people in the right direction on that front. Its a usefull fitting for DIY's that dont want to spend 1000+ on an oil cooler setup. As are your fittings usefull for the same type of people.

In a metric fitting the O-ring does the sealing the threads just hold it there. Ive had the pulsar fittings on the car for over 3 years now, i cant tell you how many threads were on the fitting but it hasnt leaked a drop ever. Pulsar is a high quality brand name in the hydraulic industry their fittings and hoses are designed for pressures that about 100 times greater than our oil systems generate, as long as properly installed I have 100% confidence in the fitting. I cannot speak for the similar earls fitting.

 

The Earls had an O-ring also. So just a heads up on my observation of it.



Later

 

Is there a thermostat in the tranny cooler that must be removed or disabled?

 

Auto tranny cooler does have a thermostat. The thermostat is the same as the stock oil cooler from what I could tell having them side by side.

 

All you have to do is feed the passenger side an oil flow, thermostat is ok, leave it alone. The setup will eventually be exactly like an R1 oil flow. Out of the pump, over to passenger side, then over to driver and out to the oil pedestal.

I do suggest an Oil Temperature gauge though. I mounted mine at the oil pedestal area - in the banjo bolt. Now there has been discussion on this, but I bored out my bolt some to as to NOT impede oil flow. NO problems on three FDs all done the same way.

You oil temperature should run @ 210-220F in hot weather.




Later

 

A set just altered for 7 dust. These complete an Auto to Manual conversion. To leave an unused automatic transmission cooler setting over there is a waste ! Ups the engine reliability by converting to a R1 setup oil cooler flow.


Later

 

^^^ Well damn. No one will ever see those when installed.

They are too pretty to hide.

 

The modded fittings were installed and leak free! It's been two weeks now.

 

I would mod the fittings, but I don't have the resources. I'm planning on taking a look this weekend when I remove the remaining ATF lines from the car.

 

Excellent job Joe, How's your car running now ?


Later

 

Its running rich just need a final tune and I'll be done with the car!

 

How does one get these modded fittings and what are the part numbers for the stock hoses I need?

 

Sorry to bring up a dead thread but did this ever work without leaks or any other problems

 

I am actually curious about this also as my car has the trans cooler still in it from the trans swap previous owner did....

 

since I don't have R1 lines I think I am going to weld on a steel -10 fitting to the trans cooler fitting and run Howard Coleman's cheap dual cooler setup but of course with my trans cooler...

Anyone see a problem with this idea?

 

I am the one that made them. I run three cars with identical setups. NO leaks at all. works perfectly. I am getting ready to put a 3rd gen oil cooler on my Kubota tractor now







later

 

Tom thanks for the good idea. Got my old trans cooler plumbed in this weekend, and two days of autocross no problems. Had a small leak on the banjo fitting to the engine at first but fixed it, cocked gasket behind the fitting when I tightened it down... but dry and cool as can be now

 

That's what it's all about, sharing ideas. Ideas that work !



later

 

Bringing this back from the dead to warn future onlookers; there is a major difference between the auto trans cooler and the engine oil cooler. The passages for the auto cooler are much much smaller than the engine oil cooler; which makes sense since the viscosity of ATF is much lower than engine oil.

Auto cooler passages (both are this size)



Engine oil passages (upper passage, passage to right is thermostat which is the same size)



I did find a solution; you drill through the flat spots on the bottom of the cooler through that and then enlarge the cooler holes to match the engine oil. Then weld up the most bottom hole and you're good to go.

This is the auto cooler drilled larger; you have to be very very careful not to drill through the inner wall of the cooler or the cooler will be junk...




I also found that converting to 10 AN is really easy, Fragola sells a 18mm to 10an (auto cooler) and 20mm to 10an (engine oil) they use an O ring and seal really well, in fact it's almost as if the cooler is designed for said adapters with O rings. Summit racing sells them. The O rings are kind of strange sizes so having a nice assortment of viton o rings is helpful. Or go to a hydraulic shop with fittings and coolers as I did.

Some pics of my install:

I cut off the oem goofy connections and welded on steel 10 AN fittings, if you don't have access to this there is an 18mm banjo to 10AN and you could do this without welding (cooler drill holes will obviously have to be welded shut)...







You can kind of see the drill holes welded shut here, they are perpendicular to the cooler lines: