Ive attending some short Hi Speed Touring type events and kept a watchful eye on the car even though I was only on the track for about a minute at a time (8 times in a few hours)

But now its time to suck it up and go ahead and take my car up at the local Closed Circuit Track. With about 19 other friends. Im sure the car will perform well, its the it popping that Im worried about. At this point theres no backing out...

see tha link.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=231051

Ive seen posts by Cossie & Damian and was wanting some input from some of the other racers about either emphasizing my worries of a hard day on a track, or letting me know I have little to worry about.

The track usually takes a stock Z06, 1.5mins to go around. You get a 20min. session with 5 cars @ 5 times in a day. So Ill be pushing the car very hard for the whole day. With the option to duck out early if gauges read hi.
My mods are: Intake,DP, MP, CB, Pettit ECU, Koni's, RB springs, Water Wetter, Defi EGT, Boost Gague (linearized Water Gauge) Custom IC Sprayer (h20), Profec B, Full NON Seq. (ran 12.9@111mph : 13.5psi)
I plan to keep the boost at a modest 10psi. And Im concerned about the stock IC.
My goal is to be able to break the 1.5min mark around the track so I will be pushing it hard most the time.
Any insight from you hardcore roadracers would be appreciated.

P.S. you North Texas guys have a great opportunity to run on OKs finest for a great price!

 

HeatTreated, go to the race tech forum. There are a few current threads that will answer all your questions.

 

Yeah, get another track car. The FD3S is great for spirited touring through the curvy back roads, autocrossing, and Solo I, but the FD3S is NOT the heartiest of track cars when you're pushing 9/10ths to 10/10ths lap after lap for 25 minute sessions in southwestern heat. It's sobering but the Z06 is the better car on the track (assuming a competent/experienced driver behind the wheel). Just go out there, and have fun. Don't worry about the Z06. Cheers!

 

Considering how much newer the Z06 is I could really care less if its better.

 

Yes, heat will be your enemy, but mostly on the brakes. What brake pads will you be running?

Most of the guys around here that track their cars routinely see temps around 230F or so. It's not a problem as long as you keep your eye on it and make sure it doesn't go too high. If you keep your boost around 9-10 PSI, that will help keep your temps down.

Last month, when I ran my car it was about 80F outside. My temps got up to around 220F (stock rad) on one session but that was it. Since your car will be constantly moving, you'll always have fresh air coming in similar to being on the highway however you'll be pushing the car harder.

 

I have some old Bonez pads.
im sure they'll be toast after a couple sessions.

I have the Fan Mod Done so Im sure that will help.
Plus, Ill be removing the hood if need be. Ill go check out that Race Tech Forum.
She always performed well at the tighter, quicker courses, and even tho I cant afford to blow the engine right now, I dont want to pass this up with close friends and some badass mix of cars; Supra, Vette, M roadster, NSX..etc..

 

I doubt those Bonez will make it through a session without some fading if you'll hit speeds over 100 anywhere on the course. I tried them and they faded less than 10 minutes into my session (brand new pads as well). On this track, I hit around 130 on the main staight and around 100 on the other staights (breaking down to 40-60 or so).

As for the fan mod, just discoonect the condenser when you get there. Then you can control your fans better. I didn't but I didn't have any heat problems.

 

Pulling the A/C relay is easier....

 

That was recommend to me NOT to do by the other track guys. I'm not sure exactly why (could be just because it's something you could lose where as disconnecting the condenser doesn't require removing anything).

 

I know of no reason either. I know a lot of people do it and in fact my mechanic recommended it to me. The cooling difference between the fans running on low or med and with them running on high (A/C "turned on") is significant.

 

Yep, it's the same effect. One is just pulling out a relay (and holding on to it) while the other is just disconnecting the condenser wire. Disconnecting the condenser however can be a pain if you have a full size battery since it's usually buried in front of it.

 

Thanks for the link, looks like a great track.

If you can run off the track onto grass/dirt, don't take your hood off. You might just get an engine full of dirt. Have you see the Miata's after a good off in the dirt.

 

Where is the A/C relay?

 

Eric,
keep your fans on, watch your temp and oil pressure gauges, consider bleeding your brakes before you go if you haven't done so recently, and have a good time.
David

 

It's in the box of relays (black cover) by the hood latch. I believe it's the 2nd or 3rd one from the drivers's side.

1. Remove relay
2. Turn on A/C in car.
3. ECU thinks A/C is on (compressor will not run) and turns the cooling fans to the high speed setting.
4. You run much cooler!

 

Thanks for the tips guys.
Good hearing from you FDJunkie! (hope you can come out with us one of these days)

 

I'm waaayyy to busy build a new house, but at least my FD will have its own garage again...its even a 3 car!!!!! For now I'll just have to enjoy you going in my place.

 

It's the one I told you about when we were at Motorsport Ranch the other week, Paul. Unfortunately, it's buried underneath your plastic piece that feeds air from the IC duct to the intake. Time for a nice aftermarket intake

 

Oh ****, is that relay box covered up with the stock air ducting? Oops...forgot about that!

 

Eh, a minor point . Us modded guys tend to forget about stuff like that.......luckily I see many near-stock stock FDs at the shop to jog my memory. I dunno Tyler, you might be slipping

 

You may be right there Rich. A nice cold air intake would be nice.

I could tell the wife, "I've got to have a cold air intake so I can pull my A/C relay, oh and by the way, then I'll need a cat-back, HF cat and PFC."

 

Sounds like a plan. Just tell your wife the United States Army endorses it. See you at the shop soon

 

Also do not pull the ebrake after you run, warp the rotors that way. Do not park over grass or anything else flammable, you will ignite it!

the fan only make a difference when you are standing still, I would recommend you take a cool down lap or two in the parking lot after you come off the track, let the engine cool down and then turn on the fans with the car idling and the hood up.

 

umm...no. Not even close. Good advice about the brakes though.

 

1. Fans on ALL the time when on the track!!!

2. Change coolant before tracking the car (25% anti-freeze max). Change back later.

3. Watch you Intake Air Temps as well as your Coolant temps

4. Change the Brake Fluid!!!!! Use ATE super Blue or
ATE Super 200 (amber) for best compatibility

ATE Super Blue
DOT 4 Dry boil 536°F (280°C) Wet boil 382°F (194°C)

ATE Super 200 (amber color) (aka Type 200)
DOT 4 Dry Boil 536°F (280°C) Wet Boil 382°F (194°C)

5 Consider new pads. Hawk HP+ are nice and not too expensive but change back when on the street, these pads are not rotor friendly.