3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

AST delete and filling system

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Sep 12, 2020 | 05:20 PM
  #1  
Testrun's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
AST delete and filling system

Just curious if anyone has any tricks to filling the system with an ast delete and if anything is so different than with an AST. Topping off the system? Just pop the cap and top off?

This is with a Koyo Nflo if that makes a difference.
some say the Nflo is a huge pita because air can get trapped. Thanks for any help.

Reply
Old Sep 12, 2020 | 06:02 PM
  #2  
Pete_89T2's Avatar
Rotorhead for life
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,196
Likes: 1,267
From: Elkton, MD
I just went through this with my FD, also a Koyo N-flow, no AST on a completely drained system, here's a few tips to make it less of a PITA

- If you don't have one already, get one of these Lisle funnel kits, they make burping the air out of the system so much easier and less messy. You can buy it on Amazon and just about everywhere else: https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...ree-funnel-606

- Before filling, don't forget to set the heater to max heat so coolant can flow into the heater core too.
- Go very slow when pouring the coolant in so the air can get out while you pour - you don't want the flow of liquid to block the flow of air out.
- Taking a break from pouring and giving the upper & lower rad hose a squeeze occasionally seems to help persuade the trapped air out a little quicker.

To finish the job, fire it up with the Lisle funnel still attached and with about 1/8 ~ 1/4 full of coolant in it. If the level drops as the car idles and warms up, just slowly add more coolant, always keeping the funnel 1/8 ~ 1/4 full. After reaching operating temps, shut the car off & let it cool down - the coolant level in the funnel may rise after you shut down, that's normal. Hopefully it won't overflow the funnel (that's why you want to keep the funnel no more than 1/4 full). As the engine cools, the level may drop again - just keep it topped off if it does. Repeat the process for another heat cycle or two if the level drops at the end and you have to add coolant to get it full.

Reply
Old Sep 12, 2020 | 06:25 PM
  #3  
Testrun's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
Thanks. I really appreciate you taking the time.
Do you just pop the cap on filler neck and check level from time to time? Or do you just rely in overflow reservoir?
Reply
Old Sep 12, 2020 | 06:36 PM
  #4  
Testrun's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
I ask this because I feel as if my coolant level isn't totally full.
When I shut my car down the coolant temp immediately goes down a few degrees until it starts to heat soak a bit. I always go back and run my fan for a min and restart to cool everything down. I usually do this 2x with the last being when I pull it into the garage. I run it until it is back to 82°c and the fans kick off.
I see no reason for the immediate drop in temp (let's say 5°c) if the coolant level isn't possibly going below sensor. I can not be more happy with my cooling system performance at the moment though. I am only boosting off wastegate (7psi ish) but in South FL temp I am not getting above 87c. This is with higher oil temps also which I just fixed.
I guess I should look how low the temp sensor is on this thing. I forgot.


I just popped the filler cap and it's full. Glad I have awhile before flushing!

Last edited by Testrun; Sep 12, 2020 at 07:29 PM.
Reply
Old Sep 12, 2020 | 09:07 PM
  #5  
Sgtblue's Avatar
Urban Combat Vet
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (16)
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 12,160
Likes: 983
From: Mid-west
Agree with the lisle funnel. And also make sure the overflow has coolant. Then check the engine coolant level when completely cold after the next couple heat cycles. I can usually get a few more oz. in it. I change coolant at least bi-annually and it really doesn’t take any longer than with the AST.
I ran the plastic FC piece on the filler neck for a few years without issue but Banzai’s billet neck won’t crack and has a better quality ‘O’ ring. It’s a nice piece and I run that now.
http://www.banzai-racing.com/store/93%2B_rx-7_AST.html



Last edited by Sgtblue; Sep 12, 2020 at 09:21 PM.
Reply
Old Sep 12, 2020 | 09:18 PM
  #6  
Testrun's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
Thanks you guys.
Reply
Old Sep 13, 2020 | 05:56 AM
  #7  
Pete_89T2's Avatar
Rotorhead for life
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,196
Likes: 1,267
From: Elkton, MD
Originally Posted by Testrun
Thanks. I really appreciate you taking the time.
Do you just pop the cap on filler neck and check level from time to time? Or do you just rely in overflow reservoir?
I'll pop the cap on a cold engine to check the coolant periodically. In theory, if the pressure cap and overflow tank plumbing is functioning properly, checking the level in the tank is good enough. But I prefer popping the cap on a cold engine for that extra peace of mind.
Reply
Old Sep 13, 2020 | 07:12 AM
  #8  
Red94fd's Avatar
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 814
Likes: 96
From: Florida
FL

Originally Posted by Pete_89T2
I'll pop the cap on a cold engine to check the coolant periodically. In theory, if the pressure cap and overflow tank plumbing is functioning properly, checking the level in the tank is good enough. But I prefer popping the cap on a cold engine for that extra peace of mind.
Thats what I had to do and took me a long time.. I shouldn't be messing with it any time son, cause I can't be wasting my Evans..
Reply
Old Sep 13, 2020 | 08:41 AM
  #9  
Testrun's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
Again, just for the record. You guys running a .9 bar? My engine builder put a 1.1 and I am thinking of changing it to a .9.
Reply
Old Sep 13, 2020 | 10:51 AM
  #10  
Sgtblue's Avatar
Urban Combat Vet
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (16)
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 12,160
Likes: 983
From: Mid-west
I run a .9 bar. I’ve never seen a need for higher. Yours may actually be a 1.3 bar.
Reply
Old Sep 13, 2020 | 10:54 AM
  #11  
Testrun's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member: 5 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
I run a .9 bar. I’ve never seen a need for higher. Yours may actually be a 1.3 bar.
I have a 1.1 and do not see a reason for anything higher. I will order an RE Amemiya cap, unless you know of something easier to obtain. Most of what I see is 1.1 or 1.3, but hard to find a .9?
Probably Mazda has o e that I just didn't see lol
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
femnto
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
6
Nov 29, 2006 08:56 PM
Godzilla-T78
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
13
Jun 20, 2004 01:22 AM
Storm Knight
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
17
Oct 16, 2002 12:11 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:32 AM.