Atmospheric

iTrader: (3)

So I drove my car all around today with no issues. Cold starts right up, no issues with idle. I was driving home from work on the highway, got off an exit ramp, pushed in the clutch to coast, then the engine died. I pulled off into a parking lot and tried to start it back up, and got nothing. I figured it was flooded, so I did the "push in the pedal for 15 seconds" method, I pulled my fuel pump relay and cranked, removed the plugs and cranked, replaced the leading plugs (town I'm in is small, only had 2 leading in the city), pull started, rolled it down a hill. Nothing worked permanently. Push starting it would work initially, but once I pushed the clutch in again it would die.

I'm running 1000s/2000s with a haltech elite 1500. Car is getting tuned Friday but had a base tune on it from Chris Ludwig. My best guess is that the base tune is just flat out too rich so as soon as load goes away it floods itself. Anyone have a better answer?

Atmospheric

iTrader: (3)

I guess it could also be the clutch switch. I know that stalling when coasting is a sign of that. But would it also prevent my car from starting as well?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

If the car is cranking the clutch switch is OK. The stock ECU and the PFC are set up to monitor the clutch switch to keep it from stalling when returning to idle, the Haltech most likely can do the same thing but that may not be set up yet.

I'd hold off until Friday since it's possible there's a number of things that needs to be set up on the ECU. I would try and track down some extra spare leading plugs to have handy, Advance Auto Parts typically carries the NGK plugs and they can probably get them in stock from a nearby warehouse fairly quickly. May even be worth getting an extra set.

Does the car have oil metering?

Dale

Atmospheric

iTrader: (3)

OMP has been removed. Using premix.

Thanks for the advice on the plugs. I'll definitely bring some with.

I was able to get the car home by push starting it down a hill, then keeping the rpms above 2500-3000. Once it was in my driveway I tried to slowly drop the rpms down to see if it would idle. Right around 1700 it just died, then wouldn't start back up (big surprise). Im just at a loss of what it could be since it ran perfectly fine all day until I got off the highway. Cold started it 3-4 times with no issues. Then out of nowhere, this happens.

DaveW

Sticking primary injector?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

that is strange. MAP sensor have a good connection?

Dale

Atmospheric

iTrader: (3)

Using the internal MAP in the haltech.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

What makes you think it's flooded? Wet plugs? Fuel spraying out of plug holes when you crank it to clear?

I would check compression.

Atmospheric

iTrader: (3)

My initial instinct was fuel since I had glanced at my afr as I shifted to neutral, for a moment it went very rich. However, I've called a few places and sounds like my tune tomorrow is just going to end up being a compression test. My friend is coming over today with a standard tester; I know that doesn't work perfectly, but doing that along with cranking and listening will at least give me an idea.

I'm hoping it isn't that. Otherwise someone on here will be getting a very good deal on an otherwise solid project.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

Piston compression tester is fine for coarse measurement. You can crank for a bit to determine max pressure of the 3 rotor faces and then use the relief valve to check for even pressure sweeps.

Good luck!

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Is the motor new or does it have a lot of miles on it? A new motor if you weren't doing full boost pulls, just driving around, should be fine unless something was wrong with the build.

Dale

bajaman

Did you find the problem?