Apexi PFC good for 600+ WHP?
I don't think mr. Kan has only one boost setting set at 25psi+ on a car that he would drive 20-30miles every day.
Most guys who say their car can push 25psi and is daily driven means that it will hit 25psi at a race, then they bring it down to a saner level for street. Nothing wrong with that, just a little misleading when they say 25psi 600RWHP daily driven car. Should be 600rwhp track/400rwhp daily.
Most guys who say their car can push 25psi and is daily driven means that it will hit 25psi at a race, then they bring it down to a saner level for street. Nothing wrong with that, just a little misleading when they say 25psi 600RWHP daily driven car. Should be 600rwhp track/400rwhp daily.
Actually he told me before he use to run race gas a lot on the street to the street races and such.
I agree you could change maps depending on what you want to do but it would be nice to have enough grid that you dont have to do that. Especially since a new Haltech or AEM is the same price as a PFC with datalogit and you get a new engine harness with the Hal / Aem.....which is a pita if you just want to upgrade ecu's. But if your engine is out its easy
STEPHEN
I agree you could change maps depending on what you want to do but it would be nice to have enough grid that you dont have to do that. Especially since a new Haltech or AEM is the same price as a PFC with datalogit and you get a new engine harness with the Hal / Aem.....which is a pita if you just want to upgrade ecu's. But if your engine is out its easy
STEPHEN
Last edited by SPOautos; Jan 14, 2003 at 12:48 PM.
Originally posted by Dimcorner
I don't think mr. Kan has only one boost setting set at 25psi+ on a car that he would drive 20-30miles every day.
Most guys who say their car can push 25psi and is daily driven means that it will hit 25psi at a race, then they bring it down to a saner level for street. Nothing wrong with that, just a little misleading when they say 25psi 600RWHP daily driven car. Should be 600rwhp track/400rwhp daily.
I don't think mr. Kan has only one boost setting set at 25psi+ on a car that he would drive 20-30miles every day.
Most guys who say their car can push 25psi and is daily driven means that it will hit 25psi at a race, then they bring it down to a saner level for street. Nothing wrong with that, just a little misleading when they say 25psi 600RWHP daily driven car. Should be 600rwhp track/400rwhp daily.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Middletown, Ohio (Cincinnati area)
Ok you guys are all talking about 600 WHP 2 rotor setup. What I have planned for my car isnt a 2 rotor setup, I was going 20b and havent decided on turbo yet. I got it down to two. What would be the best bet for the 3 rotor?
Originally posted by RX794
There's nothing wrong with that, and a different ECU isn't gonna change this factor.
There's nothing wrong with that, and a different ECU isn't gonna change this factor.
No, there is nothing really wrong with that....but is it optimal???
Yea you can run seperate maps for high boost or lower boost, ect. But wouldnt it be nice to have a grid large enough to run 30 psi then it wouldnt matter if you were running 15 or 30 you could do it all on one map without having to change them.
Thats what I'm saying. If I were planing to run 30psi of boost I think I'd reach for the new Haltch or AEM over the PFC. The ONLY reason I went with a PFC is cause i didnt want to change the engine harness out and for what I have planed its pleanty sufficient.
BTW - Now that he mentioned 3 rotor this is irrelevant. Go check out the 3 rotor section, there is a place that will do the full conversion and guarentee 600rwhp at I think 15psi of boost. Its like 30K labor and all turn key. Its MVAmotorsports and there is a 3 page thread in there about them. There are only a couple ecu's you can use on a 3 rotor anyway.
STEPHEN
in regards to the scoot car, its may have done 710 rwhp on the dyno but they sure dont drive it around with 710rwhp. on street, track, or top speed runs they run the car with about mid 500rwhp. 710hp was done with i think 1.8bar correct me if i am wrong, i have to go back to the article and video. on street, track, and top speed they run 1.3-1.5 bar. 710rwhp was for show. anyone using that kind of setup can raise their boost for a few dyno runs to get lots of horsepower but how much engine life did they just cut. also, power fc is also called poor man's motec. power fc is good but can't compare to motec. but then who wants to pay that much for a motec unless your a serious racer. 600hp project will be a fun one but any experienced FD tuners here will tell you it will be a long journey. journeys to the bank.
Originally posted by Domestic513
Ok you guys are all talking about 600 WHP 2 rotor setup. What I have planned for my car isnt a 2 rotor setup, I was going 20b and havent decided on turbo yet. I got it down to two. What would be the best bet for the 3 rotor?
Ok you guys are all talking about 600 WHP 2 rotor setup. What I have planned for my car isnt a 2 rotor setup, I was going 20b and havent decided on turbo yet. I got it down to two. What would be the best bet for the 3 rotor?
paul
Originally posted by pluto
Whoa, just did a search on my last name and I saw this in here???
Whoa, just did a search on my last name and I saw this in here???
Didn't realize you were so popular huh lol
Yea, I used your car as an example of someone making 600+rwhp in a streetable car
STEPHEN
Well, there's a race trim and street trim map for everycar. That's the only way to optimize your car's potentials. I briefly mentioned this at nopistons forum on how a/f ratio changes in respect on different fuel because the specific density is different and requires different tuning.
Supras are the same way for pump gas (18-20psi) vs. race gas 27-28psi..... You can't really run full race trim map unless you have the money to buy race gas all the time. $7/gal is too steep for me to drive around time in race trim. I prefer a street car running 17-19psi on pump gas and still reliable.
Supras are the same way for pump gas (18-20psi) vs. race gas 27-28psi..... You can't really run full race trim map unless you have the money to buy race gas all the time. $7/gal is too steep for me to drive around time in race trim. I prefer a street car running 17-19psi on pump gas and still reliable.

Originally posted by SPOautos
Didn't realize you were so popular huh lol
Yea, I used your car as an example of someone making 600+rwhp in a streetable car
STEPHEN
Didn't realize you were so popular huh lol
Yea, I used your car as an example of someone making 600+rwhp in a streetable car
STEPHEN
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
torky007
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
7
Aug 17, 2015 05:14 PM



