Apex Seals Apex Seals Apex Seals
12-03-06, 09:38 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by RX72NR
I just purchased the NRS 3mm greys w/. stinger springs. They taper to 2mm on the sealing surface. Also going the JHB cermet A route. I ran RA before this rebuild in 2mm. Hurleys are recommended if your tuning on the edge, replace w/stronger seals after satisfactory tune has been realized.
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12-03-06, 09:42 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
What do you need explained? Seals that thick are probably overkill in an n/a motor, not sure why mazda chose do to that. If anyone knows the answer I'd love to hear it
Exactly that. Why did they put huge seals in the 12a
12-03-06, 11:05 AM
#29
Originally Posted by RX72NR
Hurleys are recommended if your tuning on the edge, replace w/stronger seals after satisfactory tune has been realized.
I'd like to hear from anyone else who has run these seals and later inspected the housings for wear. Perhaps my case is anomalous.
Last edited by patriick; 12-03-06 at 11:24 AM.
12-03-06, 11:43 AM
#30
Originally Posted by RX72NR
I just purchased the NRS 3mm greys w/. stinger springs. They taper to 2mm on the sealing surface.
What made you choose the chamfer option? I ask because Glassman mentioned that small carbon deposits build up in the chamfer area.
12-03-06, 11:53 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by patriick
I know that Pineapple Racing recommends this in the Engine building thoughts thread, but as I've posted before, my housings looked terrible after running those seals for 27k miles (abrasive wear). Based on this, and for what it's worth, I wouldn't recommend running those seals for any amount of time in a non-race engine.
I'd like to hear from anyone else who has run these seals and later inspected the housings for wear. Perhaps my case is anomalous.
I'd like to hear from anyone else who has run these seals and later inspected the housings for wear. Perhaps my case is anomalous.
12-03-06, 02:38 PM
#34
Originally Posted by tiger18
Now im scared,,, ive got the 2mm hurley racing seals, triple spring corner seals and duplex side seal 14000 miles everything seems ok?
I'm curious about your compression numbers, if you know what they are.
12-03-06, 02:52 PM
#37
Oem 2mm 2 piece is the way to go unless you are on a strict budget and want to cut corners..( why you would want to cut corners on one of the most important part of your engine, I dont understand) 3mm Oem are a second option if your rotor grooves are outside of spec and you dont want to buy new rotors and cant source a set of used that are within spec. This option does cost more considering the machine work on the rotors and the Oem 3mm seals are more exspensive.. My problem with 3mm seals in general is they cause more heat...yet they are stronger and are more forgiving when you do something wrong..
Better yet take a set of OEM 2mm 2piece and have them cryo threated...
I am pretty sure I have the best price on Oem 2mm and Oem 3mm.. and if you buy in quanity I can even give you a better deal..So there is really no reason to go aftermarket unless upgrading to Ianetti or NRS..
Better yet take a set of OEM 2mm 2piece and have them cryo threated...
I am pretty sure I have the best price on Oem 2mm and Oem 3mm.. and if you buy in quanity I can even give you a better deal..So there is really no reason to go aftermarket unless upgrading to Ianetti or NRS..
12-03-06, 02:53 PM
#38
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Originally Posted by tiger18
Now im scared,,, ive got the 2mm hurley racing seals, triple spring corner seals and duplex side seal 14000 miles everything seems ok?
12-03-06, 03:00 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by Japan2LA
Oem 2mm 2 piece is the way to go unless you are on a strict budget and want to cut corners..( why you would want to cut corners on one of the most important part of your engine, I dont understand) 3mm Oem are a second option if your rotor grooves are outside of spec and you dont want to buy new rotors and cant source a set of used that are within spec. This option does cost more considering the machine work on the rotors and the Oem 3mm seals are more exspensive.. My problem with 3mm seals in general is they cause more heat...yet they are stronger and are more forgiving when you do something wrong..
Better yet take a set of OEM 2mm 2piece and have them cryo threated...
I am pretty sure I have the best price on Oem 2mm and Oem 3mm.. and if you buy in quanity I can even give you a better deal..So there is really no reason to go aftermarket unless upgrading to Ianetti or NRS..
Better yet take a set of OEM 2mm 2piece and have them cryo threated...
I am pretty sure I have the best price on Oem 2mm and Oem 3mm.. and if you buy in quanity I can even give you a better deal..So there is really no reason to go aftermarket unless upgrading to Ianetti or NRS..
12-03-06, 03:01 PM
#40
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tell me your joking goodfella,,, im planning mods to push 400HP,, the only reason i went with these seals is i thought i was buying better than stock parts (i wanted all the better stuff)mmmmmmmmmm? is everyone saying this about hurley seals?
12-03-06, 03:07 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by tiger18
tell me your joking goodfella,,, im planning mods to push 400HP,, the only reason i went with these seals is i thought i was buying better than stock parts (i wanted all the better stuff)mmmmmmmmmm? is everyone saying this about hurley seals?
12-03-06, 05:28 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by patriick
Since you use Atkins seals and run high boost, I assume this means that they don't float. Why, are they lighter? stronger spring?
12-03-06, 05:37 PM
#45
Originally Posted by ErnieT
Your right and wrong. OEM is the best to use if your setting your car up for the street only, otherwise stock seals will fail/float at higher boost levels. Trust me, I Know...
12-03-06, 08:10 PM
#48
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Originally Posted by patriick
Sounds like the cryo treatment is the secret sauce. I know of an untreated 2mm Atkins seal breaking from minor detonation.
12-03-06, 08:11 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by Japan2LA
I know you are making crazy HP with your setup.. so Oem for your 700hp setup probally would not be a good match.. but for your average street/track day car making 250hp to 500hp oem is fine..wouldnt you agree???
12-03-06, 08:42 PM
#50
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Originally Posted by RX72NR
I just purchased the NRS 3mm greys w/. stinger springs. They taper to 2mm on the sealing surface. Also going the JHB cermet A route. I ran RA before this rebuild in 2mm. Hurleys are recommended if your tuning on the edge, replace w/stronger seals after satisfactory tune has been realized.
What do you have to say about the RA seals you used? Did they actually break on you? Was housing wear bad? How many miles did you put on the seals? And did you use the RA Classic seals or their upgraded super seals?