Can you please explain the Hurley comment. I don't understand what you're saying. Thanks .

 

Exactly that. Why did they put huge seals in the 12a

 

YZF/Improved, is that you? What did you get banned for this time, lol?

 

I know that Pineapple Racing recommends this in the Engine building thoughts thread, but as I've posted before, my housings looked terrible after running those seals for 27k miles (abrasive wear). Based on this, and for what it's worth, I wouldn't recommend running those seals for any amount of time in a non-race engine.

I'd like to hear from anyone else who has run these seals and later inspected the housings for wear. Perhaps my case is anomalous.

 

This interests me because I'm considering the NRS 3mm ceramic for my next build (incidentally, with the hope of eliminating the chatter I've experienced with non-ceramic 3mm).

What made you choose the chamfer option? I ask because Glassman mentioned that small carbon deposits build up in the chamfer area.

 

I'm about to pull my housings. I'm running the "soft" 3mm Hurleys (coincidentally, two of 'em decided to play the breaking game on me), and I have heard things from a few people about abnormal housing wear due to these seals. I'll let you know how it looks in a few days here.

 

I have these seals and look forward to seeing the results. I wanted to stay away from them but I had little choice at the time.

 

Now im scared,,, ive got the 2mm hurley racing seals, triple spring corner seals and duplex side seal 14000 miles everything seems ok?

 

What's done is done. I wouldn't worry about it unless you have the means and/or inclination to open it up and check it out. My experience is with 3mm, 2mm may be fine.

I'm curious about your compression numbers, if you know what they are.

 

If its of any interest Im using Atkins cryoed 2mm apex seals and Im making upwards of 700rwhp.

 

Not sure about compression figures,,,, but i pull 17.4 inches of mercury >>>>???

 

Oem 2mm 2 piece is the way to go unless you are on a strict budget and want to cut corners..( why you would want to cut corners on one of the most important part of your engine, I dont understand) 3mm Oem are a second option if your rotor grooves are outside of spec and you dont want to buy new rotors and cant source a set of used that are within spec. This option does cost more considering the machine work on the rotors and the Oem 3mm seals are more exspensive.. My problem with 3mm seals in general is they cause more heat...yet they are stronger and are more forgiving when you do something wrong..

Better yet take a set of OEM 2mm 2piece and have them cryo threated...
I am pretty sure I have the best price on Oem 2mm and Oem 3mm.. and if you buy in quanity I can even give you a better deal..So there is really no reason to go aftermarket unless upgrading to Ianetti or NRS..

 

back in 2001-2002 I broke about 20 2mm hurley seals, and that's no lie---I really broke about 20 of them. KDR kept recommending them and I was too naive to know any better. They're very soft, so they break easily. I broke them from a bad tank of gas, and from some minor detonation. They break that easily. In your case I'd recommend against trying to 'push the envelope' with regards to boost/power, and I recommend investing in a water injection system, which will help keep the detonation monster away

 

Your right and wrong. OEM is the best to use if your setting your car up for the street only, otherwise stock seals will fail/float at higher boost levels. Trust me, I Know...

 

tell me your joking goodfella,,, im planning mods to push 400HP,, the only reason i went with these seals is i thought i was buying better than stock parts (i wanted all the better stuff)mmmmmmmmmm? is everyone saying this about hurley seals?

 

No, Rich is 100% correct. Hurley seals suck ***. KDR used them in my engine. That with his suck *** tuning blew 4 engines in 6months.

 

lol,,,so im gonna wind boost and my hurley super seals are gonna **** themselves,,,,i better start saving for a new engine lol

 

Since you use Atkins seals and run high boost, I assume this means that they don't float. Why, are they lighter? stronger spring?

 

Both. Demetrios uses them in his 7sec. RX7.

 

I know you are making crazy HP with your setup.. so Oem for your 700hp setup probally would not be a good match.. but for your average street/track day car making 250hp to 500hp oem is fine..wouldnt you agree???

 

Sounds like the cryo treatment is the secret sauce. I know of an untreated 2mm Atkins seal breaking from minor detonation.

 

I find it cheaper simply because I can buy mazda parts at cost since I work for a Mazda dealership.

 

I've never heard of "minor" detonation. If you detonate, you detonate. Don't care what apex seal you run, if your not tuned right, your gonna blow the motor. The right seal helps, but the tune is the most important thing.

 

Yes.

 

What do you have to say about the RA seals you used? Did they actually break on you? Was housing wear bad? How many miles did you put on the seals? And did you use the RA Classic seals or their upgraded super seals?