speed rII

Can someone confirm my thougths about the cause?
Fuel pump broke at wot pull, but the symptoms started after several pull's with new pump.
I think that the seal broke when the pump failed, and the engine started
"behaving bad" after 2 broken pieces fell out. (and left the engine with out a trace)

Here is pic of the seal, only one broke.



Small chip missing from the rotor, I will use this thou..



Just to make sure, here is my igl map



And igl split



Engine was run after rebuild about 4h and several dyno runs with spark problems.
Fixed the spark with aem coils, then the fuelpump gived up....

1.3bar run aprox 500hp on the flywheel,
When the seal let go, 1.1 bar, ~6000rpm, 10.9afr, 440hp....

Specs:
-Holset hx40super with 22 sized exhaust
-Rx7 store fuelkit 850/1600
-044fuelpump (new one)
-Large streetport with pineapple templates
-PFC
-V-mount

Long post, and if you need more info please ask

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

Notice the tip is missing on the corner? Lean condition, damaged the apex seal.

speed rII

So, this would point towards the failing fuelpump?

CloudPump

iTrader: (2)

If your pump died and a lean condition damaged the seal it would make me think that the pump may have sputtered a bit before completely calling it a day.

-Geoff

speed rII

Thank you guys

Could some one comment on the timing? We are running on pumpgas that's close to your's 92 oct.

And this is customers car' that my friend is building. I did the rebuild and ignition map. So I wasn't on the dyno shop when engine stopped.
Local tuner did the fuelmap's, first wankel for him. But he knows that these engines like fuel....

Would it be ok to use allmost new seal to replace the broken one? From an engine that has run about 500km's?
Or 3 new seals?
Or take the whole engine apart and put all 6 new seals??

SpAm@FC

iTrader: (4)

If this was my car, I would definitly pull the complete engine apart and throw all 6 seals into the bin.
Better safe than sorry

to_slow

iTrader: (3)

Here is a timing split screen, that i use and has worked great for me.

Make sure all seals are with in spec, replace broken and out of spec seals and run it, no need to run new seals if the other seals are good.

Hope that helps
Chip U

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Your ignition trailing map blew the engine. That is not degrees in split, that is trailing timing. You're not at 12 degrees split in the the higher load areas, but actually negative 5 degrees!

smg944

iTrader: (34)

^ the split box was checked off so it seems to be his split timing.

what popped your motor is 1.3 bar on 92 octane. thats not even close to enough octane for that about of boost. 1.0 bar is the limit really. your timing maps are good. i would say shoot it with some water/meth injection and you will be ok

smg944

iTrader: (34)

i would actually pull some timing at N16 about 2 deg.

TinMan09

iTrader: (9)

Idk i run 17psi on 91 octane (premium in el paso) and it works great. Its all in the tune.

speed rII

Thank's guys.

So, if the goal is 500hp on the flywheel, we need water/methanol injection?

Or 1bar and lower split?

Or racefuel? Car is a race car, so that might be the easyest...

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

I agree add some water injection or move to race gas.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Leaning out isn't helping. But I do agree that this is too much timing for pump gas only and a big turbo at 1.3 bar.

For pump fuel only I would have pulled 5 degrees leading from your high boost area (P16-P20) and increased split to 15. I can post a 1.3bar pump gas only timing map i have used successfully

speed rII

Thank's, please do so