Ohseyun

Team,
Im in the process of doing my non sequential set up and having a very difficult time. All my hoses are very hard and i keep breaking off the nipple on the solenoid, although i wont be needing them.

What i wanted to ask was, what procedure or website did you use? Did you use scuricidani.com or something else?

Do i need to take off my turbo unit or can i just cap off the actuators?? Please help me with your expertise.

Thanks,
Nathan

ROTARYFDTT

iTrader: (4)

I haven't done the conversion but here is a good site that will help you through it.
http://www.dontbearikki.com/id49.htm

jspecracer7

you have to run a boost source to your actuators or else you'll run full boost ALL THE TIME i.e. 20+ psi.

Going non-sequential is SO EASY! I did the full non-sequential(w/o tca door cutout). I pulled ALL vacuum hoses out. I capped the ones I didn't need. I ran new vacuum lines to the ones I did need.

wptrx7

any good websites on the full non seq conversion? i know it has been stated before and i can easily do a search, but if you don't mind.

luigi

Ohseyun

Jspec,
Are you telling me that all you did to run non seq. was pull out all the rats nest and cap hoses? Didnt you have to take off your turbo unit? I heard you need to weld, machine and replace a whole bunch of rings and seals..

Nathan

spooledUP7

To do the true full non-sequential - and I think it's funny that we are getting more variations on what is full - you must remove the turbos, and the exhaust manifold in order to remove the turbo control gate.
The only problem with doing this is all gaskets and o-rings you end up replacing because of the "while you're down there" phenomenon that happens. Usually one prefers to replace the hard to get to things like metering oil pump o-rings, injector insulators, and split air gaskets when the opportunity comes up.
So yes, really really really full nonsequential takes more work than the gradient levels of other non-sequential setups.

neevosh

I used the write-up on http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/non-sequential.html as a guideline. I already did the poor man's conversion so I knew my way around and knew what needed to be done. I also ported my wastegate since I had the turbos apart. New gaskets are not cheap!!!

jspecracer7

ALMOST full non-sequential. The only thing I did not do to complete the full non-sequential task was to cut the tca door out. That helps airflow and decreases sound...probably good for appx. 10 hp(Right Rikki)

suganuma

you dont need new gaskets, just reuse the old ones - theyll be fine

cut out the door...THAT is what gives you the increase in mid range and some as well at the top end since there is less in the way of the exhaust flow. running amidpipe it IS a LOT louder at idle and when you get on it.....i recommend a resonated midpipe or HF cat...

what are you needing help with??

you need a boost controller, other than that, just rip out all solenoids BUT keep the fuel pressure regulator solenoid and wastegate one if you are using that as your boost controller via the PFC.

jspecracer7

why would you need a boost controller? Use the actuator spring. It will only allow you to boost ~.8 kg/cm2, but...

I'm doing this right now. No boost controller, just a vacuum hose from a boost source to the wastegate actuator.

Ohseyun

Right now Im taking out the rats nest but im having a heck of time taking out the metal bracket that hold all of the hardpipes. Someone said that their are some bolts that hold it but i dont see any of that.
I keep breaking the nipples to the solenoid... i broke about 3 solenoids already.
Which one is the one for fuel pressure and wastegate one?????hopefully i didnt break those.
Yea, so thats where i am right now... need help
Nathan

Kevin T. Wyum

Actually a big benefit is also porting out the front chamber on the turbo manifold to match the gasket diameters and try to get the front and rear turbo passageways to be about the same overall volume. Yes like someone else mentioned not cutting the gate out is kind of a waste of time. It's a huge reason for doing the conversion. As for the rats nest, there are a few screws that hold it together. It's actually not one part. There a real pain to get to if I remember right. BTW don't you need to keep the solenoids plugged in to avoid limp mode responses from the ECU when no solenoids are present? Fuel pressure regulator solenoid is orange and the rearmost one if I remember correctly.

Kevin T. Wyum

Ohseyun

what are limp mode responses?? damn did i **** up again??

Nathan

suganuma

what computer are you on?

if stock you either need to keep the sensors connected electronically or put in some resisitors in their place.

if on PFC, it wont care

fuel pressure is the rearmost one (closest to firewall)
wastegate is one of the ones that sits on the bracket at the front of the UIM instead of actually in the nest underneath the solenoid rack.

use an exacto blade to make a slit in the hoses where they attach to the nipples, then they should just slide off. this will be tedious, but keep them from breaking - do NOT just twist the hoses, solenoids will break that way.

if he still has the pill in the wastegate line he can just use that to run 10 psi all the time, or just run a straight vacuum line and run 7.5-8 psi off the wastegate spring....if the wastegate doesnt see a boost source though it WILL just run crazy boost all the time obviously.

shoot me an AIM or email with your email address, i'll shoot you a simplified vacuum diagram if i can find it on my computer (hopefully didnt get erased last time i cleared this thing out)

-Nic

Ohseyun

Thanks nick. my email address is ohseyun@aol.com I think i already have the diagram. Is it the color coded diagram that shows what hoses to cap off? If it is then i already have it.
I guess i broke my wastegaste solnoid. any of you guys know where i can find one?

Nathan

amemiya

make sure you don't have any cats if you do the conversion or your lag will be pretty bad

suganuma

the diagram i have is one i modified from that of the original one in the FSM....maybe it will let me just attach it. I did blockoff plates at the same time, so it is simplified there as well.

it says it is too big to attach and my webpage is screwing up...wont let me post there either.

i guess i'll just email it to ya....hopefully itll help out.

SPOautos

Is there a difference in volume with the tca cut out versus just left in and wired open??? Which is louder???

I've head people going both ways with this.

Thanks,
STEPHEN

jpandes

I followed Ryan's directions off his site. So I didn't do the full conversion.

Does any one have a pic of the door that needs to be removed??? How hard is it to remove it?

Does it make that big a difference?

suganuma

hmmm....
i MIGHT be able to take some pictures later if i can borrow a digital camera from a friend of mine.

-Nic

jpandes

Thanks Suganuma!

93 R1

Ryan and I did the almost full conversion on my car. I lost everything except the flapper door. I kept the solenoids in for resistance only, instead of using resistors from Radio Shack. NONE of them are hooked into a vac line though.

As for the bracket...cut the ************ out. And you don't need to remove the turbos unless you are cutting out the door. It took us about 1 1/2 hrs to do the whole thing.

mike5876

get a 3/8 drive socket with a #2 phillips bit for removing the screws on the rats nest...sears for about $6

P'cola FD

To remove the TCA door, you have to take the exhaust manifold off the car, and cut the little bastard out. Not very hard if you can take your turbos off. If you've never pulled your turbos, then I'd leave it alone till you need to pull them for something else.

suganuma

I pulled my turbos for the sole reason of converting them the correct way....i figure better to do things best way the first time.
here are some pics
ALL PARTS ARE FOR SALE!!!
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http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/4...88010000001410