These three screws on the end of the rat's nest towards the firewall are going to be then end of me, after about half an hour trying to figure out how to unscrew them i just had to go inside and complain to all of you because i got so frustrated, anyone done this before, if so, HOW?

 

you have to remove the coils, all the uim stuff, then you can lift it out to work on it

 

I feel your pain... there is a srew under the ACV that is next to impossible to get at, took me about an hour. I was screaming at the car . sorry I have no advise about how to get to those bolts...

 

You can undo the fuel lines and then just unbolt the whole thing from the motor. Sometimes, the pain in the butt fuel lines are much easier to deal with than those screws.

I would also recommend replacing those screws with hex/allen type bolts once you have the whole thing out.

 

the UIM is completely off, good idea Mahjik

 

yeah i am about to embark on doing my 5th gear synchro with no help....soo i am sure i will be having some good yelling at my car ...good luck....got any advice mahjik besides whats on your link...oh and whats the part numbers for the parts on your 5th gear synchro website ?

 

check my vac hose job thread. bolt-off worked great on getting those screws

 

I would recommend removing the bolts and leaving the screws in place.

If you think it's fun now, wait until you try to put the ratsnest back in and try lining up the pieces for those little screws to fit back in.
2 of those screws are now resting in peace somewhere between LIM and housing...

 

i recomend beer...it helped me alot with my car...

also get it in cans...so you can throw it at a wall when you get pissed and it wont do any damage....



when ever I run into problems like your having I take a chill out and then go back to it..try to look at it from a different angle...

 

The screws in toward the back are fun to deal with too. Mahjik has a good idea there, I would highly recommend it. It will come in handy the second time around.... and there will be a second time

 

Or you can go non-sequential thats what I did. =P

 

oh, if i had that kind of money i would

 

You don't need any money to go non-sequential. I only had to buy some random things like a tap and plug, a huge drill bit, new vacuum hose, etc. Probably cost less than 50$ to do the whole thing.

For those screws, i quickly stripped them trying to get them off with a screwdriver. I tried it with vice grips and it came right off. God I love vice grips.

I have a very bad temper when it comes to my car being retarded and not being able to do something. If I am by myself, I go crazy, but if I am doing it with someone else, I never get upset because I can just take a break and talk to them or get some food or something.

 

that **** drove me to going single turbo, I hated looking for a damn boost leak

 

Maybe this will help.


What are you fixing? You may not even need to remove the rack.

 

how exactly does that work, what exactly are you doing, and what kind of results does it bear?

 

my solution is only 20 bux and has many other uses, the car has olddddddddddd hardware that strips easily...... Bolt-Off took off those screws no problem

 

i am trying to get at all of the solenoids to test them, trying to correct my boost pattern

 

What is bolt off, and can you link me to your thread about this

Jonski: as i said, i am trying to get to the solenoids to test them, i am fairly positive i have to take off the rack

 

Are you talking about non-sequential? I recommend not doing it if you aren't having boost problems or your car is mostly stock.

Non-sequential makes both turbos spin at the same time. It's much easier to control boost and diagnose boost problems when your boost cycle is simply spool-up, as opposed to primary spool (one turbo spins-up), pre-spool (after primary turbo has spooled, a portion of the exhaust is routed to the secondary turbo), and transition (boost from both turbos are combined). You'll find mixed opinions on this one. SurgeMonster converted his first, moderately modified FD to non-seq and wasn't as happy with it because the power band starts later.

 

so i do have to take off the rack to get at the solenoids, right?

 

You don't need to take off the rack to get to the solenoids. Disconnect their electrical connectors and vacuum tubing. The solenoids are just clipped on to the rack.

 

well that makes my life a little easier i suppose, thanks

on second thought, even if i unclip them, can i squeeze them out of there without breaking any nipples??

 

...........

 

Yes, you can get them out without remove the whole rack. It can be a chore though.

Did you post a question about your boost problem before trying to tear everything up?