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Anyone else use Motul Synthetic 300v Oil?

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Old 04-27-05, 09:45 AM
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Anyone else use Motul Synthetic 300v Oil?

I was given quite a bit of this Motul special racing oil when I bought my car. I'm down to my last 2L Can and was about to order more....

My FD has had its oil pan replaced and re-sealed. I've driven my car for quite some time now and have almost NEVER seen the oil level drop, or had any oil-related problems.

The weight is 10w40, and it comes in these Motul 2L can's.

Anyone else use this? It seems to be a great, refined oil choice...I suppose its worth the $$$?
Old 04-27-05, 03:38 PM
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Made 2nd Page, no responses. Bueller?
Old 04-27-05, 04:04 PM
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Nobody has oil-related problems w/ Castrol GTX or Mobil1, et al. either so what's the big deal?

I've used Motul products in my motorcycles, however, found it worked no better than anything else I tried. Considering it's generally more expensive, it's not worth it.
Old 04-28-05, 02:54 PM
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Well FWIW I may one of few FD's left with an original motor at 60k with great compression (recently tested), perfect temp's and 10-8-10 boost pattern...

I wasn't sure if I should keep filling her with the same Oil or just go to Mobil1. I know the reliability of these motors isn't based solely on oil type or amount but yea...
Old 04-28-05, 03:34 PM
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Oil level not dropping means lots of fuel dilution. Maintaining a consistent oil level is not as positive an attribute as it might seem. The oil level *should* drop since these cars burn oil be design.

I would switch to Mobil 1 since it is easier to get. But if you can get the Motul cheap and easily, I don't see any problem with continuing to run it.

10W-40 is generally lousy oil (viscocity range too wide). I recommend switching to 10W-30 or 15W-50.

-Max
Old 04-28-05, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by maxcooper
10W-40 is generally lousy oil (viscocity range too wide).
-Max
That's only true with dino oils; one of the advantages to true synthetics is that they don't need (or need very little) viscosity modifiers, because they can be specifically manufactured to any viscosity needed. Dino oils must be modified from a standard set of base stock grades using the VM additives, and the more you use, the less base stock will be in the final product, which obviously is bad.

I use Motul 300V and have had great results with it. If you don't mind paying for it, I think it's an excellent oil for rotary applications. However, if you're of the belief motor oil is motor oil because there have never been "any oil-related failures", there are plenty of cheaper alternatives.
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