Thinking of purchasing an Aquamist injection system. Anybody know of any negative affects this may have on my engine? I would like to know if anybody is using this on their FD.

 

water injection works, there is no problem with that. The reason why i don't use it is because aquamist is $$$ and i might as well upgrade the intercooler, and another reason is that it's another part that 'could' fail. You could run out of water. I just wouldn't like to depend on it.

danny

 

Hi Crazy_Jake, I do not use their system, but I do use WI of my own design.

Have been doing so for 3 years with current combination 566bhp 13B @ 20psi on pump gas !

Have run up to 22psi on pump gas with no problem, i use 9.0:1 comp rotors. The Engine with WI has been 100% reliable (still on original block I built 3 years ago) It realy saves the engine, and does things to extend the life of the motor and turbine that no other bolt ons can do, the aquamist site covers the details well.

The only side not is that you need one damn strong ignition system, so upgarde this before you install any WI system.

 

Rice Racing,

Do you recommend the AquaMist system? The Rice Racing WI system, how much did it cost you to build yourself?

 

What psi is the mist comming out of your WI system RICE RACING and what type of pump are you using?

 

Would the Jacobs ProPak be sufficient?

 

Alright - Newbie question. What exactly does this mist system do? Am I assuming that it mists the engine bay for cooler temperatures while operating?

 

Here is a good debate on WI, Richard Lamb maker of Aquamist also adds his .02.
http://bbs.22b.com/ubb/Forum8/HTML/000004-4.html
I'm finally pulling the 2c out of the closet and I'll be trying to set it up with my E6K, so if anyone has anyone has any experiance with this combo please let me know. I would love to hear about the different setups.

 

I've seen the Aquamist system used and I must say I'm pretty impressed with it. It helps in every way stated, plus the engine is always "steam cleaned inside, lol". I'll get one as soon as I get the $ for it.

 

I tihnk it mist into the intake tract (exactly where, I'm not sure). The water absorbs heat and helps keep detenation down. I think, If I'm wrong correct me.

 

Go to http://www.aquamist.co.uk/, tells everything you need to know about water injection, almost.

 

to answer the questions, yes I recommend the Aquamist is you have the $.

My system is pneumatic (no electric pumps), it uses boost pressure (to presurize a Aluminium water tank & the water is forced out by boost pressure) and a special air/water atomizing nozzle (for complete misting) I inject in front of the compressor (from my testing this is the best place for my combination) My water spray comes on at 3psi and the flow rate is very near the demand of the air flow of the engine because of my turbo engine set up so I am always injecting the right ratio of water to fuel.

With non linear set ups (small turbos or very quick boosting) you need an electronic control system like the aquamist so you can "map" the right ratio of water you need for the engine.

I inject around 300 to 330cc of water per minute @ full boost (full power).

 

i think grampa on the forum uses water injection, but i don't think it's aquamist. he's a big fan of water injection though. i met david from boosted communication group (that promotes aquamist in the us) in california. he has a turbo mr2 with the water injection setup and it's a bad ****.

 

I use the aquamist and the pump is serious high quality, cannot say the same for the injectors. I continue to get leaks at the injectors, typically the o-ring on the injector. YMMV

 

Sounds like the Aquamist does a better job and costs less (around $550) than an aftermarket intercooler. It also protects your motor in ways an intercooler can't and even cleans your engine. Rice Racing wrote that he has 566bhp @ 20lbs of boost on pump gas for over three years on original block!!!! That's all the testimonial I need. I think I'll buy the Aquamist first.

An intercooler is really the only "bolt-on" performance upgrade I havn't done, for two reasons; price and I eventually want to upgrade to a single turbo which means I might not have to buy a different intercooler, but the intercooler piping will have to be replaced. I'm the kinda guy I don't like to buy things twice. Thanks for all your responses!

 

I thought somebody would've responded to my last reply with comments like "you're stupid for not getting an intercooler first!", have all of you "seen the light". (trying to stir the pot a bit)

 

Can't have too much cooling Jake....an Intercooler plus water injection should yield GREAT results!

Besides, the 2 function in different areas.

 

Well said racer7.

 

I have been injecting water in my DSM for a few years also. I use it in conjunction with a very large FMIC. I run 20 PSI very reliably on 93 octane. I have the ability to datalog my DSM and with the water off and pretty good tuning I could never get too much power out of 18 PSI. the knock would just set in too hard and no matter how much fuel I gave it I couldn't fight it off.
With water on I have run and tuned for 23 PSI on pump gas!! the knock was still better then the 18 without it and MY EGTs were lower also. I run 20 PSi despite knowing the knock is OK at 23 because I feel 23 is too hard on the other components.

my system in that car consists of a solenoid valve, an adjustable pressure switch, 2 aquamist 6mm nozzles and a volvo fuel pump. I made a custom aluminum 1.4 gal tank and mounted the fuel pump in it. then I have a lowe level sensor and a in cabbin pressure gauge. after testing about 4-5 other fuel pumps, I discovered that dead heading a volvo pump made the most pressure 80PSI. the pump makes the 80 psi in about 2 seconds then the solenoid valve controlls the flow. once it builds up pressure one time, the pressure is there instantly from then on. It takes several hours to bleed down.

Im currently putting together a system for my new 7
Im trying for a dual stage one this time though. the first stage will turn on based on pressure, the second stage will activate based on pressure (ie first stage is on) and then RPM.
as of now I don't know the nozzle sizes

 

where are y'all injecting the mist??

RICE RACING - are you saying you're putting a misting nozzle in right after the compressor outlet, i.e. before the IC? wouldnt that cause the water to drop out as the air is condensed and cooled down?

do you have any datalogging on you results with and without water? I also want to clarify that your system is working directly off of boost pressure so that at 5 psi of manifold presssure you are injecting the water at 5 psi through your misting nozzle. seems like a system with 80 psi would yeild better atomization of the water.

I am very interested in this subject and maybe copying your design
I like the idea of a mechanical system and not something dependant on solenoids and PWM inputs...
do you have any pictures? diagrams? anything....

Thanks,

 

notice he said he's misting BEFORE the compressor. that's teh only way he can make a presure differential.

I did some fairly extensive bench top testing before I installed my old system. I tested all sorts of nozzles at a variety of pressures and I tested a variety of pumps bot regulated and deadheaded... using teh aquamist nozzles there was a HUGE visual difference at about 50PSI. before that there was a dribble. after about 50 the mist turned into a fog.

 

rice, how much is your system. sounds like it would be a lot cheaper than the aquamist, but still effective.

 

Rice, what type of misting nozzle are you using??
Can they be aquired here in the states??

 

can someone do a write up on where to buy the parts at??? thanks

 

here you go sounds like just the thing a rotary needs less detonation and steam cleaning.DIY water injection