I am gonna be replacing my motor mounts..well modifying them to fit poly mounts. Do i have to hav ethe stock mount complete flat? Because i have seen pics of where there is a bulg left. I have to make it completely flat right? and than drill a hole threw it.

just wanna make sure i got this right

 

IMHO, it's easier to just buy a second steel arm. They are interchangable from right to left and used arms are relatively cheap. I recently bought one from another forum member here for $35 shipped. You'll have a stronger, albeit slightly heavier arm, that you won't need to grind or drill out. Just post a WTB in the for-sale section.

 

IIRC, the stock driver's side also has a little nub which adds pressure to the oil pan. So using two passenger side mounts would remove this so you might need to add something to create that little bit of pressure.

However, it depends on the aftermarket mount. The ones I have are made to go around the driver's "cone". So all that needed to be done was drilling a hole for the bolt.

 

I machined a hole in the poly mount to fit the bulge of the aluminum mount. The poly was press fit onto the aluminum mount and works like a champ!

 

I don't recall the 'nub', though your probably right. But some mounts (Noltecs in my case) wouldn't work without alot of grinding, and not being an engineer, I was afraid I'd weaken it too much. Besides, the lack of that nub sounds like an advantage if you use an oil pan brace.

 

If you use a replacement mount with no nub (or other device to close the gap), you will have an oil leak. The OEM steel replacement does not have the nub.

 

thanks for the input guys.

 

so basically you cannot use 2 passanger side mounts without having an oil leak?

 

wait, I replaced the the the aluminum side to steel when I put on the noltecs and I dont have a oil leak.

Please explain how without the "nub" a oil leak will happen.

 

no pressure on the oil pan? is that why there sound be a oil leak?

 

wouldnt the bolts to the pan to the block make it hold up? why would u need the mounts to squeeze it on more?

 

The motor mounts 'interrupt' the line of oil pan bolts on the rear end of the oil pan and are an integral part of sealing the pan.
If you mill the aluminum mount flat to accept a Noltec bushing, you will find that there is already a hole in it about 11/16" wide (i.e. wider than the 10mm bushing bolt). Milling the mount doesn't seem to weaken the mount arm itself because once the Noltec is put on, it's robust steel sandwich plate will reinforce the area that used to have the **** that was under the stock rubber bushing. The main issue with milling the aluminum arm flat is the size of the hole that appears. The bushing will have to be secured to the mount arm with something that can stabilize the bushing bolt in the large hole.

 

The bolts that go through the motor mounts into the motor also help seal the pan to the block, someone correct me if I am wrong but this is what I experienced when doing my build.

 

i just group down the numb to flat and its working like a champ might upgrade to steel if i ever switch to noltechs but right now got some poly mounts.

 

i have 2 passanger side mounts both steel.. anyone wanna trade one for an aluminum drivers side mount oem of course in good shape??