Any body else bending keys?
#1
Any body else bending keys?
It seams that every time I go to open my drivers side door using the key it needs so much force to unlock that I end up bending the key. It tends to bend the key vey little but after so many unlocks the key gets to weak and starts to easily bend and not to long before it tends to start cracking. I have squirted all kinds of lubricants but to no avail it seams that they don't even help or make a difference. What am thinking about doing is buying new oem mazda key cylinders and get them rekeyed and hopefully taking care of that issue. One other thing ever since I bought the car the key cylinders do not have the little flap that acts as a shield for dirt and or water for the key cylinder. I don't know if that's part of the issue or not but that's why am making a thread to see if its just me or if some one had the issue and now has a fix for it. Let me know if you guys ever ran into this issue and can offer any type of advice that be great.
#2
I've found myself accidentally bumping it in the lock cylinder and ignition and doing this a bit. Sounds like you just need to disassemble your lock and look it over. Is the lock inside really stiff?
#3
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I ran into this issue on my FD as well. The armature inside the door had gone dry and bound up over time. The extra force I was exerting instead of actually correcting the issue eventually led to twisting a key and pulling hard enough on the door handle that it broke. You need to take the triangle off the inside of the door, take the two nuts off that are behind it. That will allow the pieces to come loose. It's tricky to get the plastic retainers for the armatures off so if you are not confident with removing them then don't try. Examine the linkages, look at them as you move the key from lock to unlock. Oil the moving parts on the inside of the assembly and continue moving the key from lock to unlock. It should get easier if this is where your problem lies. Also check the movement of the metal armature rods that connect to the door latch on the interior door handle. If it it's rubbing on the inside of the door or something of that sort. You can move/bend the rod out of the way if you need clearance but be careful not to lengthen the rod by bending it from its shape. If it's too long it won't allow the lock to move fully from lock to unlock. If you need to lube the interior door handle you will need to remove the interior door panel. Hope this helps
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (14)
Actually guys, this problem is as old as the FD, it amazes me people still ask the same questions after 13 years of ownership... LOL
The problem actually is the key, there is an inherent weak spot. (although lubricating your locks will help) I found a Ford (yes FORD) key that is the same and is a lot sturdier. It works perfectly, all you have to do is grind off the Ford emblem... then just buy a fancy key for car shows and such... LOL http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141006028624?lpid=82
The problem actually is the key, there is an inherent weak spot. (although lubricating your locks will help) I found a Ford (yes FORD) key that is the same and is a lot sturdier. It works perfectly, all you have to do is grind off the Ford emblem... then just buy a fancy key for car shows and such... LOL http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141006028624?lpid=82
#5
T3DoW
iTrader: (10)
I agree with the key being weak to begin with. Generally the failure point is exactly where the key is the thinnest. Assuming you are properly lubricating the cylinder and have no binding I've learned that you just have to be careful with it....especially in this cold *** chicago weather.
I assume your currently driving it seeing as the post was just made but years ago when I was driving the car during these cold temps I would always have problem with ice forming inside the cylinder which prevented the key from going all the way in (just barely) and this then stressed the weak section of the key mentioned before.
It was the worst after washing the car because I didn't have the little flap thing either and I laugh at myself remembering how sometimes I would have to bend over and breath into the key hole before I could fit the key in. All while my gf, or whoever the passenger was looked at me like I was crazy because I had to literally give my baby a "blow job" before she'd let me in for a ride haha
...ahhh the good ole days ;-)
I assume your currently driving it seeing as the post was just made but years ago when I was driving the car during these cold temps I would always have problem with ice forming inside the cylinder which prevented the key from going all the way in (just barely) and this then stressed the weak section of the key mentioned before.
It was the worst after washing the car because I didn't have the little flap thing either and I laugh at myself remembering how sometimes I would have to bend over and breath into the key hole before I could fit the key in. All while my gf, or whoever the passenger was looked at me like I was crazy because I had to literally give my baby a "blow job" before she'd let me in for a ride haha
...ahhh the good ole days ;-)
#7
Same thing happens to me if I don't periodically remove the door handle assembly and lube it up properly.
I find it also helps to lube the door latch mechanism inside the door at times, but that involves removing the door panels, removing the plastic weather barrier sheet and lubing the rods and latch mechanism, which is a bit of a pain. So that happens less often than it should..
I find it also helps to lube the door latch mechanism inside the door at times, but that involves removing the door panels, removing the plastic weather barrier sheet and lubing the rods and latch mechanism, which is a bit of a pain. So that happens less often than it should..
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#10
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
Nope but I'm using one of the OEM key blanks from RX7.com. 10 years or so now.
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