Another Temp sending placement idea
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Another Temp sending placement idea
I used a brass t with 2 brass barb fittings on the other side I place my sending unit. The whole thing cost me less than $10. Its out of the way and reads the temp good.
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is that from an outlet off your RAD? if so I think its better to have the temp before your RAD to get a 'true' engine water temp reading instead of the radiator water temp.
Dunno, I could be wrong
Dunno, I could be wrong
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The outlet from the Rad. is the same one that you would run off of your AST (lower center) and the same for the upper hose near the rad. cap.
Its a cheap and easy install, plus the where to get the"true" engine temp is always up for debate.
Its a cheap and easy install, plus the where to get the"true" engine temp is always up for debate.
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Originally Posted by 4Fun
The outlet from the Rad. is the same one that you would run off of your AST (lower center) and the same for the upper hose near the rad. cap.
Its a cheap and easy install, plus the where to get the"true" engine temp is always up for debate.
Its a cheap and easy install, plus the where to get the"true" engine temp is always up for debate.
It's hard to get any easier than the TB coolant line.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 09-22-05 at 06:43 AM.
#6
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
IIRC there was debate about the TB coolant line vs. thermostat housing, but not the lower radiator hose. Why do you want to know how well your radiator is working?
It's hard to get any easier than the TB coolant line.
It's hard to get any easier than the TB coolant line.
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Do you really need to place the sensor at the hottest point in the cooling system?
As long as you know where the sensor is located, and know what the "normal" operating temps are with the sensor located in that location, then I don't see why placing the temp sensor before/after the radiator really makes a difference. You'll still be able to spot abnormal temps and shut the car down.
Edit: I'm in the TB coolant line (my temp sender that is)
As long as you know where the sensor is located, and know what the "normal" operating temps are with the sensor located in that location, then I don't see why placing the temp sensor before/after the radiator really makes a difference. You'll still be able to spot abnormal temps and shut the car down.
Edit: I'm in the TB coolant line (my temp sender that is)
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#8
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Originally Posted by jeffrored92
Do you really need to place the sensor at the hottest point in the cooling system?
Example: 4fun loans his car to "Bob", and forgets to tell him that he installed the sender in a spot that will give accurate readings. Something goes wrong with the car while Bob is driving it, and the temp gauge goes to 225. Bob knows that 225 is ok, so he continues to drive the car, which is really at 250 degrees. The car overheats for an extended time, and the coolant seals are toast, along with whatever else melts with them.
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Originally Posted by 4Fun
plus the where to get the"true" engine temp is always up for debate.
#10
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thermo housing it is. didn't even cost me anything but a tap. easy as hell. people shouldn't be scared to drill and tap the thermo housing, I found it to be very easy and that is for someone at the time that had very little tap experience. You get exactly the same spot as the stoock sensor, that way you can really see how the stocker doesn't work. I am up to 140 on my defi before the stock one even moves. I vote to do it right and rest assure your getting proper temps. I think its worth it, don't you?
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Originally Posted by sonix7
thermo housing it is. didn't even cost me anything but a tap. easy as hell. people shouldn't be scared to drill and tap the thermo housing, I found it to be very easy and that is for someone at the time that had very little tap experience. You get exactly the same spot as the stoock sensor, that way you can really see how the stocker doesn't work. I am up to 140 on my defi before the stock one even moves. I vote to do it right and rest assure your getting proper temps. I think its worth it, don't you?
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Originally Posted by adam c
Yes!!! You should always strive to do things right. Doing things right will result in less chance of a screw up.
Example: 4fun loans his car to "Bob", and forgets to tell him that he installed the sender in a spot that will give accurate readings. Something goes wrong with the car while Bob is driving it, and the temp gauge goes to 225. Bob knows that 225 is ok, so he continues to drive the car, which is really at 250 degrees. The car overheats for an extended time, and the coolant seals are toast, along with whatever else melts with them.
Example: 4fun loans his car to "Bob", and forgets to tell him that he installed the sender in a spot that will give accurate readings. Something goes wrong with the car while Bob is driving it, and the temp gauge goes to 225. Bob knows that 225 is ok, so he continues to drive the car, which is really at 250 degrees. The car overheats for an extended time, and the coolant seals are toast, along with whatever else melts with them.
Don't know why I'm arguing though, given that I would never install my temp sender there. The TB is so much easier. If I was to go for an alternative for the TB line, I'd tap the thermo housing.
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Originally Posted by adam c
Yes!!! You should always strive to do things right. Doing things right will result in less chance of a screw up.
Example: 4fun loans his car to "Bob", and forgets to tell him that he installed the sender in a spot that will give accurate readings. Something goes wrong with the car while Bob is driving it, and the temp gauge goes to 225. Bob knows that 225 is ok, so he continues to drive the car, which is really at 250 degrees. The car overheats for an extended time, and the coolant seals are toast, along with whatever else melts with them.
Example: 4fun loans his car to "Bob", and forgets to tell him that he installed the sender in a spot that will give accurate readings. Something goes wrong with the car while Bob is driving it, and the temp gauge goes to 225. Bob knows that 225 is ok, so he continues to drive the car, which is really at 250 degrees. The car overheats for an extended time, and the coolant seals are toast, along with whatever else melts with them.
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Just to point it out. It's in the line that would normally go to the AST. In his case it seems that he has eliminated the AST and the line goes straight to where the AST would go into the rad. It should in theory read just about the same as having it tapped into the housing.
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Originally Posted by Ibumar
Just to point it out. It's in the line that would normally go to the AST. In his case it seems that he has eliminated the AST and the line goes straight to where the AST would go into the rad. It should in theory read just about the same as having it tapped into the housing.
As it does.
I guess we all have a "right" way going about placing there sending units. At that location works best for me. It works and I know if I have a temp problem. Thanks for the input guys. What I will do is write down my reading there and then barrow another sending unit and see what the diffrence is + or - .
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There is a drawback to looping the line from the fillneck to the radiator instead of capping both sides. It allows hot coolant to bypass the radiator.
The stock AST actually has a restrictor built into its outlet so that the volume of coolant flowing through it is significantly reduced. I think it's something like 1 or 2mm in diameter, very small.
An unrestricted 10mm will actually flow a significant volume.
Just something to think about.
The stock AST actually has a restrictor built into its outlet so that the volume of coolant flowing through it is significantly reduced. I think it's something like 1 or 2mm in diameter, very small.
An unrestricted 10mm will actually flow a significant volume.
Just something to think about.
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Originally Posted by Ibumar
There is a drawback to looping the line from the fillneck to the radiator instead of capping both sides. It allows hot coolant to bypass the radiator.
The stock AST actually has a restrictor built into its outlet so that the volume of coolant flowing through it is significantly reduced. I think it's something like 1 or 2mm in diameter, very small.
An unrestricted 10mm will actually flow a significant volume.
Just something to think about.
The stock AST actually has a restrictor built into its outlet so that the volume of coolant flowing through it is significantly reduced. I think it's something like 1 or 2mm in diameter, very small.
An unrestricted 10mm will actually flow a significant volume.
Just something to think about.
although you're right about that, if you have to worry about that, your cooling system is inadequit.
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