katit

iTrader: (1)

I think my title was too confusing:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/bouncy-idle-flooding-room-fuse-671495/

So here we go with new thread.

Car wouldn't start using starter but will push start very easy. No smoke, no ill effects. Everything works nice and fine. But it won't start using key.

Battery just charged and starter spins faster then ever was. Clutch switch works as I can turn engine over.

It started on Sunday when I wasn't able to start car but then it somehow started after lot's of cranking. Then it was starting fine all Sunday while warm. Monday it didn't start and yesterday we push started it, but after warm up it still wouldn't start using key but starts right away by pushing it.

P.S. I searched archives but it's all either flooded cars or clutch switch or something else that wouldn't even allow push start...

GOOFYROTOR

replace the electrical part of the ignition key cylinder. you have an internal BAD spot.

katit

iTrader: (1)

Hm.. That's not a bad idea. Does it have few circuits? You think one of them may affect fuel/spark while other will actuate starter? Only in START position. Something like that?

GOOFYROTOR

it's not an idea, it's an common problem for all cars.
it's better to replace the unit with a new one.

katit

iTrader: (1)

I do not have lot's of experience but I try to understand whatever I'm doing, not just throwing parts and see if they stick..

Looks like if it IS a problem indeed, it would be continuity problem in START between B1-IG1 (image attached)

I will check it tonight. Thanks a LOT for this pointer! I will update topic on what I find.

katit

iTrader: (1)

I cleaned switch and wired manual switch for B1-IG1 and it didn't work.
I also checked spark - no spark. But car starts from push-start!

What else I can look at? Will Datalogit help me to check anything? I have PFC.

Phread

automatic??????

katit

iTrader: (1)

manual

paramer 22

check your clutch switch if its not working properly you couldnt start it

GOOFYROTOR

DIY is easy if doing it correctly.

you have the diagram.............................but did do it right!
U GOTTA USE THE LOWER "ON " WIRING USING IG2!!!!!

katit

iTrader: (1)

Can you explain why? Car doesn't start when I'm cranking, therefore it fails in "START" mode. Why should I look for ON wiring? I know I can push start it which means ON wiring is fine. What is wrong here?

GOOFYROTOR

according to your statements only. the problem, whenever u crank the engine it doesn't start. when u push it starts.
the contact inside the key cyl. is not connecting when cranking mode.
so change the key cyl.

katit

iTrader: (1)

Yes, this is how it is. Thats why if switch bad - it mulfunction in START mode. START is a cranking mode or I'm wrong? Not ON as you said in previous post. Thats' why I looked at B1-IG1

B2-ST obviously work because starter spins and motor cranks. From what I understand - this circuit goes through clutch switch and pretty simple.

btw, I took switch apart, cleaned all contacts, re-lubed with dielectric grease. Right now I just want to prove that this is the problem.

GOOFYROTOR

do u know how the ign1 and ign2 works?

katit

iTrader: (1)

No. How do they work?

GOOFYROTOR

welp..................... power to IG2
do NOT power IG1.
try it.

katit

iTrader: (1)

I will solder switch to connect IG2 to B2(when I get home tonight), but I still want to understand why.
I can't find a place in FSM that explains that.

IG2-B2 continuity is good in ON mode, I checked. But IG2 is not dotted on diagram in START mode.

Can you explain reasoning on why those (IG2-B2) need to be connected in START mode?

GOOFYROTOR

while turning the key to crank the engine, the cyl is spring loaded. this might cause the contacts to pull apart inside.

katit

iTrader: (1)

So, you saying that IG2 should still be powered in START mode? If so, then diagram wrong or I'm not reading it correctly? Because I understand there should be no continuity between B2-IG2 in START mode. Only B2-ST(starter)

GOOFYROTOR

the diagram on START 2nd click which is from B2 all the way to ST have continuity.

katit

iTrader: (1)

That's what I thought. Confusing because on ON you see B2-IG and it also has stop(circle) at ACC which tells me that line through probably doesn't mean contact. Anyways, it didn't work I tried to short them with no luck.

I will do final test by measuring voltage at 1C on ECU. Should be 12V while cranking.

FSM also tells me that this simptoms could indicate TPS(throttle position sensor) which is unlikely because car runs nice when started.
Another possibility CPS (crank sensors) which I will check and not sure if they can allow motor to run when push start. And it also could be brake in wiring from ignition switch to 1C on ECU...

There is no spark and it doesn't look like there is any fuel, plugs look good.

GOOFYROTOR

maybe it's not connected correctly when your testing it.
if u can push start it, ur not gettin power from the ignition when using key.

katit

iTrader: (1)

Well. I found issue. It's not ignition, it's crank sensor (NE).
Measured resistance at ECU and this one didn't have continuity. I already took it off and proved it broken. Hopefully after I find good one - issue will be solved.

Talking about ignition - I think I read schema properly.

katit

iTrader: (1)

Car fixed! Thanks books he happened to have crank sensor. 2 hours of labor and she started right away..