Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Ok I found out that the new air pump is doing the same thing the old one was doing this is not the problem.

THIS IS MY CURRENT SITUATION

Air pump works great, no leaks from any hoses, but no air getting to the catalytic converter at all. I verified that the air pump is working by running a hose straight from the air pump to the catalytic converter and it blows air.

I am getting ready to replace the ACV along with the wagon wheel/check valve (because it flows air in both directions), BUT before I do, IS THERE ANY OTHER POSSIBILITY BESIDES THE ACV FOR NO AIR GETTING TO THE CONVERTER?

I hate throwing parts at a problem, but I don't see any other possibility? I've studying the damn FSM a million times and this should not be this complicating, I just can't see anything else besides the AVC being the problem, thats just impossible. If im wrong somebody please chime in!

Speed of light

iTrader: (8)

Have you read Mazda's '93 Service Highlights manual? If not, you should.... it has a much more detailed operational description of the air injection system (than the FSM). It is required reading if you're working on the ACV. It is posted on the forum here, somewhere.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Wow thanks, that helped a lot. I know for sure that the reason why the air isn't getting to the converter is because either the acv itself is bad, or 1 of the 3 solenoid valves that plug into it is bad.

It doesn't say anything about how to test them, but I would assume, checking them for continuity, or applying 12 volts to see if there is a clicking noise?

BTW, after looking over my smog paperwork from when I first smogged my car back in 2008, and then this years, I determined my catalytic converter IS bad. So to make it simple... New catalytic converter+ repair ACV issue=pass smog

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Ok I pulled the ACV out tonight, and I checked it AGAIN and everything is checking good? Both the switching and relief actuator hold vacuum perfectly fine and do not leak. I checked all 3 of the solenoid valves and they all checked good (I even put 12 volts to all of them and I heard all of them clicking) The only thing is that the "solenoid valve port air" has a poor connection (continuity was not consistent). However when I put 12 volts to it, it clicked no problem.

One thing, this diaphram thing everyone keeps talking about, is that the spring loaded actuator I see when I look inside the ACV, Would this here be the diaphram?



Tommorow, im gonna blow into some hoses to verify that there is physically air all the way up to the ACV, and air physically coming out of the ACV itself and going into the converter, so I can be 100% sure that its the problem. So far everything is checking good...except the solenoid valve port air bypass is questionable, but I don't think that would cause no air to the converter?

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Ok just thought I would let everyone know that I did find the problem. The ACV is good and all of its 3 solenoid valves are good. the problem appears to be that the switching solenoid/actuator was not getting any vacuum. So I suspect that either the ecu is not sending a good signal to the solenoid valve, maby a wiring problem, or the switching solenoid valve on the solenoid rack is bad. No way in hell im takin the rack out again, so I unplugged the vacuum hose from the ACV and plugged the hose up. This seems to send fresh air to the converter at all times. I don't really know how that works, but all I know is that the secondary air injection is fixed now, and there is a pretty good amount of air coming out of the pipe before the converter.

I also wanted to make sure that the air relief system was still working properly, so I pulled the hose off of the intake and revved the engine up and felt a little air being bypassed back into the intake, but at idle there was no air going through this hose, which is what the FSM says is correct. So PROBLEM SOLVED! Last thing I need to do is install a new catalytic converter, and that will be arriving in a few days, and then i'll go for a smog retest.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Ok guys I give up. I failed smog again, even worse this time im a gross polluter even worse then last time. I have a brand new bonez highflow cat, working air injection, new plugs+wires, all new vacuum hoses w/perfect boost, new 02 sensor OEM style, good working air pump, new fuel filter, cleaned flow tested and balanced oem fuel injectors, new fuel pulsation damper, etc etc....

There is just nothing else to fix. I am convinced this car will NEVER pass smog. This car runs beautiful otherwise. Im gonna need to buy a second car asap. How the ****** hell am I a gross polluter with a brand new catalytic converter and working air injection? Im never gonna buy another Bonez converter again. I need to come up with some new ideas

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Sorry to hear. What were the numbers? Looking at what you have done, I don't think I could think of anything to suggest.

On the positive side, you went from newb to veteran faster than anyone in the history of this board.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

HC's were in the 400's @15 mph wtf... This converter is garbage and was a waste of money. I believe im running rich, but theres not one thing I can think of that'd be causing the problem, Having had all of the above done in the past 6 months, what else is there to fix? I need some other options here and fast. My social life is completely gone down the drain. To some ppl I may be over reacting about this but this is more then just about passing smog, Its about getting out and enjoying life I havent been able to get out of the house and do my own thing "Legally" for about 4 1/2 months almost comin up on half a year.

I always need to borrow somebodys car, or get a ride because I cant legally drive mine even though its physically possible. I've already missed out on so many opportunities and fun activities in the past 4 months I just cant take this any more, I've already wasted half of the year with this ****. There needs to be some major changes in my life and FAST, because I dont think passing smog is one of my options.

Nathan Kwok

Ernesto,
I don't think you are overreacting at all, this sounds really frustrating. Have you ever thought about taking it to a reputable rotary shop that knows FDs? I'm all for DIY and having that personal involvement with your car, but when it gets to the point where it makes you hate your car, that's when you know its time to get some help. Just a thought, good luck!

wstrohm

Ernesto,

Are you sure that there is no vacuum leak between the Lower Intake Manifold and the body of the rotor housings? On my '94, the OEM gasket was a fiberboard type, and over the years, the gasket mostly disintegrated. The leak there caused my car to "almost" fail in 2008, but after I replaced the gasket (later in 2008) with the upgraded Mazda stainless steel gasket, the car flew through the 2010 test looking about as good as in 1998! This is at 101K miles on the original engine, EGR valve removed, pre-cat replaced with a Bonez DP (thermally wrapped), AWS removed, using a stock cat converter. Stock ECU, stock everything else.

(I think I mentioned this in one of your other threads.)

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

I'm 100% sure I dont have a vacuum leak there, because When I fixed the previous vacuum leak I had which turned out to be a missing fuel injector grommet, I pressure tested the entire system for leaks, and next biggest vacuum leak I found was coming from the oil filler cap, which was a VERY small PCV system leak at that, and not big enough to affect the idle or anything at all really.

Once I fixed the vacuum leak at the fuel injector grommet, the idle went back down to normal and now it stays there (750-900ish). PLUS: one thing I also noticed is that ever since I installed the new catalytic converter, sometimes my exhaust smells like rotten eggs and it smells like something is burning, but nothing is. On top of that, I failed smog too WITH the new Bonez metallic converter. I never smelled anything like that with my old random technology converter this is ridiculous, I feel like I was robbed.

I'll be the first to admit im no smog expert, but ive already went through all the basics: Replace catalytic converter, fix secondary air injection, spark plugs+wires, tested ignition coils (everything is spec), cleaned and flow tested oem fuel injectors, new 02 sensor, cleaned EGR valve, replace FPD and perform fuel hose recall kit, new fuel filter. Maby I missed something? I REALLY dont like messing with the vacuum hoses, because Idk how I got all those 50+ hoses perfect, but I finally have 10 psi boost and I don't wanna risk messing it up lol I don't like having other ppl work on my car I always have a bad experience with that. Maby if it was a special rotary shop I suppose

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

You know what, come to think of it.... I noticed that when I first did my smog test this year In january I was a gross polluter too. That was before I had ever did any serious engine work to the car.This seems to have been a problem that developed over the past 2 years, but found out now, just when it comes time to pass smog.

This is what I do know.... When I first tried to pass smog when I came to california 2 years ago, I BARELY failed with a brand new random technology high flow metallic substrate converter and NON functional air injection. NOW, 2 years later and having done no serious mechanical work to the car at all at that time in January, I fail horribly with the same converter and working secondary air injection? Something else is wrong.

Im sure the secondary air injection helps, but from my personal experience, the car got get VERY close to passing even with the air injection not working, which is the way it should be. Out of all the mechanical work i've done recently, It almost sounds a computer related problem, since im 90% sure its not any mechanical problem. Unless the FPR decided to start dumping raw fuel outta nowhere and not have any symptoms? Ive never heard of that happening but anything possible. I'll look over the FSM.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Well guys I still have the same problem with the car turning off by itself in gear, so I checked the clutch switch again, and found out that the little white button has a lot of freeplay? not normal. The button doesn't spring all the way out like it supposed to its kinda stuck inwards making it an open circuit all the time. I found this out today and used a goodyear ballpoint pen spring (damn good quality! ) and SO FAR I havent had the problem since. I even drove it around for a while and everything seems ok, but I need to drive it more to be 100% sure.

As for the passing smog there's no good news about that unfortunately. My options now, are:
(1 Buy a second cheaper car and worry about smoging this car later
(2 Save some money and bring this to a rotary specialist and have a smog expert figure it out.

Option #2 I think is gonna be cheaper, so im leaning toward that, but in the meantime i'll have to wait until I save some money

TuRbOnOs7

iTrader: (3)

Man... I was really looking forward to the good ending of what is almost a good "novela" but I guess not yet, I'm all for clean air and all that, I think that the way it should be is that as long as your car can pass it shouldn't matter what mods are on it, what is missing/unplugged or whatever since the point should be clean air, but as many things in CA that is not really the point... the point is to get people's money and spend it the wrong way so they can raise taxes and keep doing the same while bankrupting everyone in the process but hey all that belongs on another thread. Anyways, I came to CA while serving in the military as a FL resident, as such I knew nothing of emissions, my FB with an FD engine swap had no emissions on it (duh) but I was protected cause I was in the military and not a resident so I didn't care. I aquired an FD after a year of being here which had more oil leaks than the gulf of Mexico, the injector O-rings were bad ( I know this cause shortly after I got it it caught on fire on me, thinking back, I remembered smelling raw gas at idle), chipped apex seal, tons of vaccumm hose leaks since the car had 89k miles and had never been gone through but when I bought it I registered it and I smogged it....it passed with flying colors I kid you not! STOCK CAT.... a year went by and I had to smog again... byt his point I had an intake system, cat-back, bonez high flow cat, still had the air pump, and rat's nest was untouched from the previous year and guess what GROSS POLLUTER!!! I really think like someone mentioned earlier on here that the mere surface area of the stock cat is what makes it your best bet. California has very strict emissions laws and they keep making stricter so I think the problem is that these high-flow cats may be good enough for places like Texas or wherever where emission standards are not as strict so those cats pass there but not here. Ultimately I ended up registering the car in FL and taking EVERYTHING off. Now that I'm not in the military I'm just awaiting the day that my gig is up (driving with out of state plates) and I have to somehow revert back to "normal" which is why admire what you're doing... trust me I would've given up a long time ago but you have stuck with it.... but there is another way....

wstrohm

The way that air from the air pump is distributed inside the cat might be the difference between a stock cat and an aftermarket cat. I think you can't just punch a hole in the side of the converter and pump in air. There has to be a manifold inside the cat that spreads the air to reach all the converter element surfaces...