Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Ok there is for sure a problem with the secondary air injection system. I disconnected the air hose that goes directly to the catalytic converter and had my brother step on the gas and hold the rpm at 2500, and there was no air coming out of the hose, only VERY little air.

The air pump IS working however, the clutch spins at idle and cuts out at 3000 rpm the way it suppose to. That would explain my extremely low 02 readings during the smog test. I'm not sure if this is at all related to the high idle issue, but ill take things one step at a time.

This is what I unplugged to check for air flow to the converter, but found no flow at all:

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

No flow from the air pump will affect your idle. Looks like you may have found your problem. Time to buy a used air pump and try again.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

The part that confuses me is that the air pump itself is working ( its spinning and the clutch engages and disengages) but no flow at all. I checked the FSM, and in the secondary air injection system consists of the air control valve, 2 check valves, the air pump relay, a few solenoid valves, the air pump, and a few vacuum lines and air hoses.

In my mind I did a mental check list because I recently did a major vacuum hose job and all of these components were tested prior to reinstallation:

--ACV is good, holds vacuum perfectly and reinstalled everything back the way it should.
--All check valves were replaced with viton, and I made sure they were not backwards.
--The air pump relay obviously works if the air pump's magnetic clutch is spinning.

--All rats nest solenoid valves were tested prior to reinstallation for proper flow through ports A,B, and C, and performed the functionality "clicking" test, resistance checks, and continuity tests, and all terminals were meticulously sanded/cleaned, and then retested again in 24 hours.

--The air pump is physically working and the magnetic clutch is spinning, but whether or not its providing flow is unknown. I'm gonna pull an air hose off of the pump itself and check that next.

-- Vacuum lines must be hooked up correctly for the air injection system since im getting 10 psi?

Did I do this right? I mean if you disconnect the air injection air hose from the catalytic converter and increase the rpms, shouldn't air be coming out of the hose if the air pump is working properly?

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Ok I disconnected the air hose from the Air Pump and it's sucking air and it sucks more air the higher the rpm's are and cuts out at 3250 rpm so looks like the air pump is working perfectly fine.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but after the air pump, doesnt the air go into the air control valve, then it goes into the catalytic converter? Because if thats the case, then either the ACV is bad, or one of those switching solenoid valves that connects to it is not functioning properly.

I did a search on this just now and found a thread where another FD guy was having the EXACT same problem as me, and nobody responded. That sure helped out a lot https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...dapter+harness

Just like him, I also read in the FSM that to test the ACV, I need the Engine Signal Monitor Adapter Harness. Im pretty sure that tool cost like $1000, does anybody know another way to test the ACV and the switching solenoid valves that plug into it?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Sort of... The air is switched to the exhaust ports, cat, and to the relief. You might want to check this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-engine-so-damn-complicated-part-2-emissions-controls-841963/

But yes, you should ensure you have the vacuum lines and solenoids properly functioning for the ACV.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

There is a filter and a diaphram thingy. I thought I posted that? It is located on the inside of the intake manifold and is blocked by the secondary fuel rail. If you are having a problem with the secondary air pump flow, you will want to replace those.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

So the issue with the Secondary air injection system has something to do with the ACV, or the components that attach to it, and help it to properly function. Now that I think about it, I dont think there is anything wrong with any of the ACV's solenoids, because I didnt mess with any of that during the vacuum hose job. I only unplugged their connectors, and IF I had damaged the wiring somehow, im pretty sure there would be a CEL on, which there is not.

I have a theory that there is a vacuum leak somewhere at the ACV, and that is causing my high idle, causing the rich condition, and also causing the malfunction of the secondary air injection. I do find it strange that after completing the vacuum hose job, my secondary air injection is all of a sudden not working, and there is a vacuum leak at the same time.

I'm currently still waiting for the fighters garage boost pressure tester, so theres really nothing I can do until it arrives.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Ok finally after 10,000,000 years I received the fighters garage boost pressure tester I hooked it up just now and put an air compressor to it and there is no pressure building up at all?. I'm pretty sure i'm doing this wrong, i'm a newbie at this. On the Fighters Garage website, I just now noticed that in their picture, they have something circled in yellow and they call it a cap and coupler.





Basically do I have to remove the air box, and plug the intake pipe leading to the primary turbo to properly perform this test?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yes, you need to cap off BOTH turbos.

the ACV air needs to go to PORT AIR. if you take the ACV off the PORT AIR passage is the big round one with the check valve

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Ok for sure I have a HUGE vacuum leak coming from under the upper intake manifold. I did find the exact location of where the massive air/vacuum leak is coming from here's a pic.



Even when the car is running, I can hear air leaking from this area of the car and spraying throttle body cleaner brings the rpms back down to normal, but its really impossible to find out what the problem is without taking off the UIM again and looking over that area I still think the vacuum leak and the secondary injection malfunction are related somehow, since this massive air leak appears VERY close to the ACV.

I'm gonna start pulling things apart later. In the meantime could anything else in that area cause a massive vacuum leak?

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Today I did a little bit of work, and partially removed the UIM to really get a better look at whats going on. I had to get a little creative, I ductaped the holes for the upper intake manifold and inserted a silicone vacuum hose inside of it to pressurize the system, and so far its looking like its NOT the ACV. The large vacuum leak appears to actually be coming from underneath the ACV?

In fact it kinda looks like its coming from the secondary fuel rail. Tomorrow im off so im gonna completely remove the UIM and the ACV to see whats going on down there. Would an improperly installed fuel injector insulator cause a major vacuum leak?

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

After doing some research I answered my own question in that it can definitely cause a major vacuum leak. Too bad I cant edit my previous post

BTW I do know that the bolts for the primary and secondary fuel rails are not interchangeable, and I installed them in the correct places: long ones secondary rail, short ones primary rail; and made sure to re-install the plastic spacer on the primary.

By fixing this, I will take care of the high idle, the rich condition, and the boost leak all in one, but the real question is, would a major vacuum leak from the injector insulators negatively affect the secondary air injection?

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Ok for sure the huge vacuum leak is coming from the secondary fuel rail. It turns out that the area where its leaking from is missing the grommets altogether!??? I could have sworn I installed those grommets on both sides? maby during installation the other side slipped off or something idk, but that is 100% the problem.

Good news is I already have some spare new oem grommets left over from my vacuum hose job so there should be no down time for the repair, but I will check both sides of the rail while im down here AND I will do another pressure test once the grommets are installed before I put it all back together.

Now the whole thing about the secondary air injection not working.... is it POSSIBLE that this massive leak could cause the air injection to not work, because the air that should be going into the converter is escaping through the injector because of the missing grommets??

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

since you're in there, blow air into the big round PORT AIR port, and see where it goes....

i guess its possible that the vacuum leak made the acv not work, but its more likely the vacuum leak just made the engine either too rich or too lean.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

The Port air port is the large port where the Switching valve/wagen wheel thing goes right? If I blow into that, what would I be looking for to happen or not happen?

wstrohm

On my '94, when I took the ACV valve filter ("wagon wheel thing") off the port, it needed cleaning... had carbon in it. Don't know from where it came, but the screen was quite dirty. In reinstalling that filter, it helps to put a couple of spots of Permatex red gasket maker on its edge, just so it won't slip out of place when you reassemble the ACV. If it does move, you might hear a whistling noise from the ACV when it's active.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

This **** is pissing me the **** off, im really getting tired of this car, I dont know how much more I can take.

After fixing all that, the idle id normal now in neutral, but when ever I put it into any gear the idle will start to hunt and then it stalls. This only happens when I put it into any gear, pressing the clutch down doesn't change the idle. On top of that, I dont think the air injection works, because there is still no air getting to the catalytic converter through the rubber hose that plugs into

I swear I wanna ****** blow this ****** car up i hate this piece of ****

wstrohm

Ernesto13B, this sounds very much like an open Clutch Switch. There is a terminal on the PCME that receives parallel signals from both the Neutral Switch and the Clutch Switch. This signal tells the IAC to control engine speed to idle rpm if the signal goes to ground. In Neutral, the terminal is at ground because of the Neutral switch, so it doesn't matter whether the Clutch switch is open or closed. But when you move the gearshift into any gear with the clutch pedal depressed, the Neutral switch opens. If the Clutch Switch is working properly, it will be closed when the clutch pedal is down, but if the spring inside has broken, or the actuating rod is not contacting the pad on the rear of the clutch pedal pivot lever, the switch will be open, and that terminal on the PCME will be at a "high" level. That would tell the IAC NOT to try and hold the idle to the correct rpm.

Please check operation of your clutch switch. Broken springs have been successfully replaced by ballpoint pen springs; a zero-cost fix! The switch should be open when clutch pedal is up (actuating rod is pressed in), and closed when the pedal is down. If the rod does not extend fully when pedal is down, the spring is probably broken.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Ok update, the stalling seems to have fixed itself? Well actually I readjusted the fast idle cam, because I was messing with it a while now ago everything is ok and idle is good and it doesnt stall anymore. However will I pass smog if I dont feel any air coming from the air injection hose leading to the catalytic converter? I had my brother revv the engine to 2500 rpm and I didnt feel any air coming out. I dont think the acv is bad, because I pressure tested it according to the FSM and it passed both leak down tests.

Why else would I not feel air getting going to the cat, Is it normal to not feel any air there?

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

were you able to manually activate the air pump and feel any air from the air pump?

-AzEKnightz

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Yes the air pump does work. When I pulled the rubber hose off of the front of it, I felt a strong suction. The higher I revv the engine, the more air is sucked in, so it definitely works, but the air is not making it to the catalytic converter.

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Ok I noticed a funny thing today. The problem with the car stalling in gear still exsists, I realized that when I unplug the air pump connector, the idle stablizes. So the problem with the stalling has to do with the damn air injection issue. Also I noticed a mooing noise when I drove it today that I never heard before. This noise is related to the air pump, I know that much. idk where to look now. Vacuum leak is gone, but the air injection issue is the only problem left over.

Boost however is great, 10 psi, just the air injection problem. I wanna bring my car to the smog shop and see where Im at to see if there are improvments which there should be. Idk why the hell im hearing a mooing noise while accelerating, I never heard that before, something is wrong there. I need another day off to do some further testing on the secondary air injection system, but I sure am running out of options

wstrohm

Ernesto,

The "mooing" sound is probably the ACV valve... did you read my post #66? Substitute "mooing" for "whistling" and you have the probable source of the problem - the ACV filter may have moved out of position when you reassembled it.

Also, did you check your Clutch Switch as I recommended in my post #68?

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

I checked the clutch switch last night, and when I pressed the switch/button in, I could hear the spring compressing and the button came all the way back out to its original position, so Im sure its good. Your right the problem MIGHT be the ACV, but let me ask everyone a question....

IS THERE A WAY TO PRESSURE TEST THE SECONDARY AIR INJECTION SYSTEM ITSELF?

Pressure testing the air intake system helped me to find the major vacuum leak at the fuel injector grommet and that fixed the idle problem. Also, the stalling issues seem to be going away the more I drive the car; it didnt stall at all today in any gear. Now if only I can pressure test the secondary air injection, I am 100% sure I will find the leak.

Another thing, I am sure my catalytic converter is bad. I brought it again today to the smog shop and HC's are @ 563 PPM and CO @ 164 PPM no improvement.

When I FIRST smogged my car back in 2008, I had a BRAND NEW catalytic converter and my air injection was NOT working and my HC's were only 87 PPM and CO 59 PPM.

I hate to admit it, but the converter needs to be replaced again.

RECAP:

(1 How would I pressure test the secondary air injection system to find the leak?
(2 Whats the best aftermarket catalytic converter for the FD?

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys I found out just now that my air pump is leaking!!! when the car is idling, I sprayed soapy water on the air pump body, and there are bubbles coming out of the housing. If I revv the engine higher, the bubbles come out faster. Also I removed the air pump suction hose just now, and blew air into it manually, and I hear a LOUD wooshing sound of air coming from the air pump itself. I made sure the hose was tight and the clamps were on and they sure were, but the wooshing sound was still there. This sounds like a VERY simple fix! I cant think of anything else in the area of the air pump BESIDES the air pump itself that the problem could be.

Ive taken off the air pump several times and its a simple design, it only has an input and output hoses and clamps. As long as those hoses themselves arn't leaking, then the air pump itself is causing the major secondary injection leak. I cant wait to freakin replace that and retest everything!