supraturbo1987

iTrader: (4)

Okay, first the mods:

stock ecu
DP, CB, gutted cat
simplified seq. system
emissions removed including ACV (airpump is disconnected)
stock intake
wax rod, DTC both still intact
AWS removed

The car is missing and really lumpy on idle for the first 5-8 minutes along with oil smoke out the tail pipe. Vac on first cold is 15-16, then 17-18 when warm. I am just very annoyed that it is so crappy running on cold starts. Motor has 1500 miles on it. Injectors were all cleaned and tested at that time. Also, when driving and coming to a stop, as soon as I let off the gas and put the stick in neutral, the rpms fall and hang up at about 1300-1400, then they will fall back to 900-1000. If I have the AC on, it hangs up at 1500-1700 and I have to tap the gas to get it to come down. Am I having all of these problems because of the emissions delete and still running the stock ECU? When the car is warm, it runs very nicely (occasional 3k hesitation)

Trev

T2 Tsunami

iTrader: (3)

I'm not sure, but I think we might have the same problem...except that I am running a PFC. The car just does'nt respond to any kind of fast acceleration when cold. any attempt results in break up, back fire and hardly any acceleration. but once the car is warmed up, it runs excellent. I had a 91 Turbo 2 that actually ran a bit better when cold than warm...I prefer it that way. What could be the problem?

RotorDream

Removing the emissions will sometimes cause a lumpy idle do to the stock ECU trying to deal with the lean condition that happens at startup anyway IIRC. how rough is it? close to stalling out or just rough in general? one thing i noticed is your running a wide open exhaust, which is dangerous on the stock ECU anyway.

for the guy with the PFC are you running the base map or has it been tuned? because base maps arnt much more helpful than the stock ECU.

T2 Tsunami

iTrader: (3)

I just got it tuned, but only to 10 psi...I wanted to set high for 14 but was having break up at high rpm due to a weak primary solenoid. I have replaced the everything new(plugs,wires,solenoid), but it still runs really rough when cold.

RotorDream

wheres your idle? after any generally after any mods you need to adjust the screw to raise it around 1k-1.5k for it to smooth out

T2 Tsunami

iTrader: (3)

My idle is usually at about 1000 RPM, the tuner tried to adjust it with the screws and PFC but said it would be difficult with the 4 850 injectors. it idles smooth, it's just acts up when speeding up while cold.

T2 Tsunami

iTrader: (3)

can't let this go yet, anyone have any ideas?

RotorDream

doesnt the PFC have the ability to compensate for the 4 850 injectors? Im not sure because I dont have one yet, but who did you take it to to have it tuned?

T2 Tsunami

iTrader: (3)

PF supercars, it was my first time dealing with him...seems like a great guy. I think he does most of the tuning on that 700+HP CY FD from NY. Saw it up close...things a beast. I'm lost here.

K2Ska311

I'm having the same exact issue, runs terrible for about 3 min on cold start, tons of smoke. Also the add coolant light comes on occasionally for about 15 seconds before turning off. Runs perfectly after it warms up, still no definitive answer?

SWAT81

iTrader: (14)

u shouldn't throttle the car hard until the car is fully warmed up, this goes for any cars.

supraturbo1987

iTrader: (4)

my problem was that I had the blue and white coil pack plugs swapped around

Trev