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am I the o nly FD waiting on a motor from pineapple?

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Old 10-26-03, 03:22 PM
  #51  
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i just took the manifolds/accessories off the block, i am not touching the flywheel bolt and am shipping with clutch on

rob requested the maps, so i complied, everyone runs a basemap until they are tuned, this is what i was doing
Old 10-26-03, 03:47 PM
  #52  
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Am I going crazy or is 10mm of Mercury the lowest I've heard other than vacuum on a blown engine.

That is insane to be running with only 10mm of mercury. That would be less than 1 inch of vacuum. A healthy engine pulls at least 14 inches.

I don't mean to complicate this post with detail. I'm just worried about the credibility of your knowledge.

Garrett


Last edited by Garrett; 10-26-03 at 03:51 PM.
Old 10-26-03, 04:08 PM
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Well i have heard, not seen of very "unusually" low vacc. readings with streetports. I think having a lower vacc pull should be expected with a big SP. ......93BlackFd, I was under the impression from one of the posts that you had taken the block apart because you mentioned seeing even wear on both front and rear rotor housings. This is hard to see/judge unless the block is apart.(thats why I thought you split it) My apologies for the false acusations!!Rob will do you right. Old race logic states that you have to crack a few eggs to make an omlet. When it's correct, it will be bitchin. Keep hope, the light is coming at the end of the tunnel. You gotta remember that he(Rob) got burnt as well. He doesn't make money on the time,and parts it takes him to replace/warranty engines.(he eats it) And your not the only one with problems probably stemming from that. ( bad employee) Which means he is a busy man trying to make things rite!! Aloha! Dave
Old 10-26-03, 05:30 PM
  #54  
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from rob's mouth "our streetports typically do not make a lot of vaccum, improvements can be made to vaccum but are typically only done if customer requests, your motor should have made about 10mmHg at idle"
Old 10-26-03, 05:55 PM
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Pineapple large street port gets about 11-12 vacuum.

Jason
Old 10-26-03, 06:33 PM
  #56  
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isn't that also dependent upon idle speed? i was idling lower than recommended, for sound purposes, he recommended up to 1500rpms for idle, i idled at 900-1000

makes sense, jason, what are you idleing at?
Old 10-26-03, 06:58 PM
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Are you sure Rob didn't say 10 inches of vacuum (inHg)? That sounds about right since stock motors pull 16-18 inHg, and it corresponds to what Jason posted.
Old 10-26-03, 08:24 PM
  #58  
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hrm...good point :-) 10inHg makes sense, crappy autometer gauge

powerFC is usually around 350mmHg

careless mistake
Old 10-27-03, 12:10 PM
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just spoke with pineapple, i told them my discoveries and possible theories and they are even more baffled, eager to get the motor back, etc

so i'm sending it off today hopefully, should be there next week and then i'm figuring out my plane ticket situation, i'll take pics of their shop and pics of the motor, damage, etc

we're all confused at this point, wtf happened? nobody is pointing fingers or anything, we just all want it resolved
Old 10-27-03, 04:06 PM
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Originally posted by 93BlackFD
sure they do, when you try to start the car and the flywheel won't turn, it will blow a fuse...happened the last time my motor blew (exhaust sleeve collapsed and got sucked back into the motor)
Which fuse? The starter takes a few 100 amps. Is there one that big on the car?
Old 10-27-03, 05:42 PM
  #61  
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My pineapple steetport idles at around 12in at 1000 rpm.
Old 10-27-03, 05:44 PM
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the "MAIN" fuse, it's normally 120A but i had a 100A in there because i relocated my battery and put a 140A on it (a $15 stinger fuse) and if any fuse went, i'd rather it be the $3 mazda one
Old 10-27-03, 06:21 PM
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That sucks 93balckFD, I've only got around 2000 miles on my pineapple street ported motor...This weekend I saw some of my Evans coolant spilled out in front of my passenger tire after a day of really hot temps and 105 C on the PFC.

I hope that it is just some normal expansion of the Evans and an over filled coolant overflow tank. It better not be a bad coolant seal!
Old 10-27-03, 06:30 PM
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that's why i broke my engine in on regular coolant, didn't want to burn/spill expensive stuff
Old 10-27-03, 06:39 PM
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Yeah, no kidding. I think I dripped around $40.00 in evans on the streets of San Francisco chasing down a coolant leak. It turned out to be a loose hose clamp at the bottom of the radiator.
Old 10-27-03, 06:47 PM
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worst coolant leak besides having a coolant seal failure, is for one of the REAR water return line banjo fittings to be leaking on your stock twins

it will pour on the exhaust housings, drip down motor mounts, your car will smoke at redlights, it's REALLY annoying, and you have to pull the turbos to fix, NOT cool

at least this motor blowing has given me a chance to fix that
Old 10-27-03, 06:49 PM
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oh yeah, and hate to be a post *****, but motor went out today....should arrive on monday, so this mystery will be solved pretty soon, i'm thinking of just letting them pull it apart instead of me flying out there, it will speed the process up as i wouldn't be able to do it until later next week
Old 10-27-03, 07:32 PM
  #68  
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i'm sure we're all curious to find out what happened. i got my car back on saturday, everything seems great, throttle response is excellent, and even on part throttle it feels strong.
btw, i have a road race street port from pineapple and i get 11-12 in vacuum at idle (950-1000rpm), about 100 miles into my breakin period.
Old 10-28-03, 12:21 AM
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Originally posted by 93BlackFD
worst coolant leak besides having a coolant seal failure, is for one of the REAR water return line banjo fittings to be leaking on your stock twins

it will pour on the exhaust housings, drip down motor mounts, your car will smoke at redlights, it's REALLY annoying, and you have to pull the turbos to fix, NOT cool

at least this motor blowing has given me a chance to fix that
I'm stumped as to why people have these leaks. I saw your post on the install and it looked like you took your time and were methodical.

I don't have any leaks on mine even though i'm using a used very low miles twin with used washers bolts etc.

I torque everything down with a torque wrench. May be that's the difference.
Old 10-28-03, 07:22 AM
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yeah, you'd think i would have noticed the potential problem, but no, i didn't clean the ceramic around the threaded holes, careless mistake, didn't think the HIGH TEMP paint would give in, gum up, and squeeze out, causing a gap
Old 10-28-03, 07:54 AM
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I thought I read somewhere that pineapple would only honor warranties on motors that ran evan's coolant. I cna't find that on the website anywhere, though. I broke my motor in on evan's. No problems, never spilled a drop.
Old 10-28-03, 08:13 AM
  #72  
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from the way he was talking to me "are you running the evans or regular" when we were talking about coolant leaks

i think the pressurized/notpressurized was what he was trying to figure out

but no, i haven't heard anything like that
Old 10-28-03, 04:04 PM
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FYI, my engine is at Pineapple for a rebuild after 7K miles. It blew while tuning the car for a single setup. Two rear apex seals got chipped. I don't think it was Pineapples fault cause I ran the livin **** out of the car for the first 7K and it was fine. I got 11hg of vacume at 1000rpm on a Large Streetport and the car was VERY strong.
Old 10-28-03, 05:51 PM
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And FWIW, I had Pineapple do a rebuild on a reman (just to be sure) 7000 miles ago. Only the oil mods (smokes on startup, blue, ho hum... probably turbos as there's plenty o' oil in the IC). Runs very nicely, thanks, except for that DAMN coolant leak I can't seem to find. I can smell it.. just can't SEE it. Grrr...

Typical FD owner, huh?
Old 11-05-03, 10:47 AM
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be sure to post an update, I almost went with rob, but went more or less local-don marvel at marvelspeed. I've been very happy, run the car hard with no problems.


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