Alumaseal or Block Weld? Which one and application questions...
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Bedford, MA, USA
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alumaseal or Block Weld? Which one and application questions...
I'm going to try one of these to stop the O-Ring leak that I've got to allow my car to get through this summer without a rebuild. Can somebody give me the pros and cons to each? Also Alumaseal says to run the engine with the rad cap off until the thermostat opens before adding. Won't the coolant become Old Faithful before that occurs? I know lots of people recommend the full flush/degrease method with CRC block weld. Does Alumaseal need the same?
Any other hints would be greatly appreciated.
Oh, BTW, does anybody know where the coolant line that connects into the rear of the throttle body attaches to? I'm trying to rule out any hose problems as well.
Thanks!
Any other hints would be greatly appreciated.
Oh, BTW, does anybody know where the coolant line that connects into the rear of the throttle body attaches to? I'm trying to rule out any hose problems as well.
Thanks!
The following users liked this post:
The Latin RX7 (01-21-20)
#3
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Talking to the guys at RP they say neither will affect the rebuild...
I am running CRC Block Weld since January at 12-13PIS and holding strong...Pulling 17inhg vac and good compression across the board.
These products WILL clog your radiator and probably will damage your waterpump (which you should replace when rebuilding anyway)...If you have an aftermarket radiator, put your stock one in so it will get clogged. Worse case scenario you will have to replace your waterpump when you get the rebuild...
For me, the $180 (I think) for the water pump and $50 in a stock rad is nothing comapared to the $4500-5000 rebuild. I have been running the last 2k miles on blockweld and it's truly great cuz I can save my pennies for my rebuild while still having fun with my car.
Sure it's just prolonging the inevitable. But I sure am glad I am still running as opposed to dropping 5k today for a rebuild.
Just yesterday I killed a well modded WRX from a stand still and pulled away about 4 car lengths till about 90mph...All I could think of was "Block weld in yo face!"
This is my story and I am sticking with it...Just like the blockweld is sticking to my radiator
I am running CRC Block Weld since January at 12-13PIS and holding strong...Pulling 17inhg vac and good compression across the board.
These products WILL clog your radiator and probably will damage your waterpump (which you should replace when rebuilding anyway)...If you have an aftermarket radiator, put your stock one in so it will get clogged. Worse case scenario you will have to replace your waterpump when you get the rebuild...
For me, the $180 (I think) for the water pump and $50 in a stock rad is nothing comapared to the $4500-5000 rebuild. I have been running the last 2k miles on blockweld and it's truly great cuz I can save my pennies for my rebuild while still having fun with my car.
Sure it's just prolonging the inevitable. But I sure am glad I am still running as opposed to dropping 5k today for a rebuild.
Just yesterday I killed a well modded WRX from a stand still and pulled away about 4 car lengths till about 90mph...All I could think of was "Block weld in yo face!"
This is my story and I am sticking with it...Just like the blockweld is sticking to my radiator
#4
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Oh, don't do the Alumaseal...I ran it first becasue I didnt' want to do the full flushing...well, it lasted about 50miles before my car started pissing all over the place again....Do it the right way and flush it several times...
Last edited by apneablue; 06-16-03 at 11:22 AM.
#5
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
It can and will damage the areas that are outside the "rebuild spectrum":
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=191608
Rebuilds are for the engine internals, not everything else around it. Personally, I wouldn't do it unless you plan on replacing more than just the radiator and water pump.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=191608
Rebuilds are for the engine internals, not everything else around it. Personally, I wouldn't do it unless you plan on replacing more than just the radiator and water pump.
#6
Speed Mach Go Go Go
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Alumaseal is approved by Evans coolant, CRC and other copper stuff is not. If you have an aluminum radiator you don't want to use copper. That pic of the copper weld is scary. I hope I don't find out I destroyed the heater core and radiator using copper. Wish I new about the aluminum stuff! Anyhow, if the side housings are too warped none of this stuff will work. ...am I right?
Trending Topics
#8
Speed Mach Go Go Go
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
^ true, it's not as strong as the copper but I don't beleive it will weld everything either. The CRC block weld lasted me about two weeks. I used the purple degreaser but with a garden hose to flush. The alumaseal lasted a little over a week and i used some antifreeze brand of flush from the auto store before hand. You can leave the alumaseal in but the CRC your supposed to take out. After seeing pictures of the welded radiator i'm afraid to find out what damage the CRC has done.
#9
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
I have done two treatments...actually three...
1. Alumaseal: lasted about 50miles
2. CRC Blockweld: Lasted about 3 weekends of hard driving
3. I am not sure of the name but pretty sure it was a Castrol copper block weld...It wasn't CRC...this is what I have in the system now...
When I open the filter neck and the AST neck I can see where it has stuck around the lip of the neck. It's not hard though...It's kinda gooey and comes off easy...Not sure if that goes for everything.
So I guess I am really not running CRC...don't know why I keep saying I am...anyway, this stuff looks EXACTLY like the CRC in a different bottle...got it at AutoZone and was about the same price as the CRC.
1. Alumaseal: lasted about 50miles
2. CRC Blockweld: Lasted about 3 weekends of hard driving
3. I am not sure of the name but pretty sure it was a Castrol copper block weld...It wasn't CRC...this is what I have in the system now...
When I open the filter neck and the AST neck I can see where it has stuck around the lip of the neck. It's not hard though...It's kinda gooey and comes off easy...Not sure if that goes for everything.
So I guess I am really not running CRC...don't know why I keep saying I am...anyway, this stuff looks EXACTLY like the CRC in a different bottle...got it at AutoZone and was about the same price as the CRC.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post