I have been noticing some odd occurrences lately when driving my fd. Ill be pulling up the driveway, obviously at a very low speed and if i turn the wheel all the way (left or right doesnt matter), the engine starts to buck and almost stalls out until i give it some gas. This is on a cold night or warm and after its been running for awhile.

At WOT sometimes the car bucks too, like its skipping a beat almost than ill let off and go WOT again and everything is fine.

When coming to a stop with my a/c on the car stalls, always no matter if its cold or hot out, have had this problem for over 2 years though.

I thought it might of been an alternator problem, im just not sure though. I have intake, catback, boost controller, and downpipe. If I let go of the throttle completely while driving i read 22" of vacuum. At start up i see around 15-17" of vacuum. Ive done alot of research and im pretty sure its not the TPS i replaced it about a year ago, my boost sensor is also hooked up properly.

Any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

Sounds like a problem with your electrical load control system (at least the idle problems). Check F-135 of the factory service manual for an outline and details. The high speed break up may be bad plugs or wires?

-Charlie

 

DUDE, i have the exact same problem for a LONG LONG time....no idea what it is....

 

thanks charlie ill look at f 135 tonight

 

Check your wiring harness under the wheel wells. If your wheel well liner is rubbed through by your car's tires, there's a good chance it might be that reason. Wiring harnesses are not cheap though. Good luck.

 

I've heard lots of cars whine at full lock from the power steering pump. Maybe something to do with that? I haven't read much about the power steering pump failing, but that kinda makes sense to me in this situation.

 

My entire driver side wheel lining is just about gone, other side is fine, so i need to look for damage to the wires?

 

yep. lots of weird problems come from frayed (sp?) wires.

 

if you run out of options with your wiring harness and pages in the service manual, and your power steering pump and alternator both check out, there is one more thing that it could be. There is a bypass valve in power steering racks that relieves all pressure from the power steering pump just before you hit full lock. This is so you
A) don't damage your rack from too much power when your pinion reaches the end of your rack
B)don't damage your power steering pump/lines by building up too much line pressure by holding the wheel all the way over
C)don't cause your car to stall when the rack is at full lock

If you have your factory power steering fluid, contaminants could have gotten into it and either blocked the bypass valve, or if you don't spend alot of time at full lock (like most people), and your power steering fluid has absorbed water, it could be rusted shut.

This is a VERY RARE failure, but it does happen. If you run out of options, you may have to do a poor man's manual steering conversion to see if it helps out your low speed bucking and stalling.