JaNusSolSumnus

Since my car is on an extended vacation, I'm taking the time to do things right under the hood. I have all my parts out and am cleaning them up to be nice and using new gaskets everywhere... possibly even new bolts too.I'm going to pull the engine harness out and do some trimming and reqiring to better accomidate my manual swap (The wiring wasnt as clean as I wanted it to be) and also clean up under the intake where my solenoids are no longer resting (simplified sequential, soon to have solenoids relocated to the firewall). I've even considered loosing my ABS, P/S and A/C(A/C is a long shot though due to Florida being HOT ALL the time). The other two are still in the air as well but I'd like to clean things up under the hood and save some weight.

Beyond that I'm wanting to ceramic coat most of my intake, alternator, my exhaust turbine housings and my side and intermediate housings in black ceramic high-temp. I plan to polish the compressor housings, the enfini y-pipe and throttle body, just to set the black off a little bit. I also have a set of CNC aluminum pullies I picked up last night, thanks to Aleem to further benifit my motor. I plan to keep my midpipe setup with the stock cat-back but will be running a fresh fuel filter, freshly cleaned injectors and an M2:stage3 -- I figure if I port the WG or even better have a larger door installed with even MORE porting I wont ever have to worry about spiking above 12psi... not to mention the ceramic coated turbine housings will keep heat down and exhaust velocities up.

I have started disassembling things and the turbos stopped me when I tried seperating the compressor sides from the CHRA's (Damn bolts are too close and my wrench cant get 2 of them out) -- if anyone has a suggestion I'd love to hear it so I can save myself the extra charge from the turbo shop to seperate them for me. The double throttle blades are coming out... I may just cut them as per my friend's suggestion and then jb weld the holes and sand it smooth.

I have the same issue disassembling the TB though as I want to both polish it AND do some porting and knife-edging. I want to port/gasket match my UIM to my LIM, my LIM to the block and maybe even loose the bridge on the UIM for the top butterfies but I dont see that improving anything since its still on the TB itself. How can I safely remove all the parts to the TB without damaging the screws on the butterflies, none of my many screwdrivers will play nicely with them Anything like PB blaster or such that might loosen the screws up?



Thanks,
~Kris

Snook

iTrader: (12)

running the stock catback with a midpipe is retarded
i would NOT use jb weld on the uim after you remove the double throttle
if its bothering you have the holes welded shut and then smooth them but i dont think it makes a difference.
the double throttle is easy to remove theres no reason to cut. drill out the screws then the circles will come out with a hammer then you can pull the straight metal part right out.
you are doing tons of extra work for little to no improvement
some people say taking out the bridge in the uim will disturb airflow from how it was meant to be
i would not suggest taking off the parts infront of the tb you can polish around them and even polish those parts with it in tact. make sure you coat those parts infront if you polish them because the green coating is a rust protectant and within a month they'll have surface rust without thick high temp clearcoating

good luck

JaNusSolSumnus

Leaving the bridge makes sense, and I know that the gasket matching wont gain too mcuh but it will effect turbulance just a bit. Since I'm not going for insane power, just a fair amount under the stock twins and ports I want to get all the tiny things out of the way.

I dont understand what 'green coating' you speak of... I do want to knife edge the TB inside and polish the outside of it. I know you have done quite a bit of polishing SM, but I thought the exterior parts of the TB HAD to come off... TPS, cable cams, etc.

Your DTB removal idea may work for me -- I'll give it a shot.

Thanks,
~Kris

Snook

iTrader: (12)

Kris I would usually just polish the top of the TB that you can see and then carefully polish the front metal parts like throttle assembly and dashpot. It may not be a green coating on yours but rather tan. Everything that's not aluminum including bolts and hard fuel and oil lines on this car is mild steel and has that coating.

Julian

iTrader: (14)

the tan/gold, sometimes greenish in US sourced bolts, coating is cadmium plating, leave it on

JaNusSolSumnus

Yea, now that I know what SM was talking about -- I dont plan to remove that. I plan ned to take the TB apart though so as to polish it without damaging the coating of other such objects though.

SurgeMonster, how do you polish around those parts without damaging them or their coatings? You said be careful... what bits, etc should I use. Right now I planned on using my bench grinder with a wire wheel and then follow up with a buffing wheel.

~Kris

Snook

iTrader: (12)

I just deleted all of my pictures of the polishing work...
This is all I have
http://plaza.ufl.edu/yanni25/7mem/upload2.jpg

I go as far as I can and then when I get to the linkages I also polish those and clearcoat them. I don't do the aluminum of the tb under teh linkages. In this picture of my stuff the linkages are paited black because I thought it looked nice.

As far as polishing the tb. This part was casted very smooth from the factory so I never even sanded them at all. I would go straight to a full sewn polishing wheel with tripoly rouge to smooth everything out. and then to a loose sewn wheel with my green rouge (not jewlers rouge) for the brilliant shine. For the uim and other parts you'll have to start sanding with a something in the 100s (grit) and move up until you are able to use the tripoly to remove the scratches

Yanni

JaNusSolSumnus

That is some yummy work you have there SurgeMonster... looks like I need to invest in about two more buffer wheels... mine is a medium buff one (full sewn, I think).

Do you take the turbos apart to polish them or have you been successful in polishing the compressors while still attached to the CHRA?

~Kris

Snook

iTrader: (12)

I've never polished stock compressor housings but it looks like it's going to be hard to polish them intact. Imagine having to hold everything up to the buffing wheel for half hour without stopping. I'm just guessing they are quite heavy...a real forearm workout.

JaNusSolSumnus

I wonder if I can get ahold of a angle grinder... maybe get some 4" wire and buffing wheels for it. I have 6" wheels on the bench grinder, and yea --- even though I have the turbos seperate from eachother.... that'd be a pain.

~Kris

Snook

iTrader: (12)

I know this sounds crazy but I never used anything but my hands and sandpaper to sand all of the parts I did for forum members and for my own car. I think those tools are too abbrasive most times and they can't get into the tight spots very well and you end up sanding too much off in an area you didnt intend to. I have heard some large polishing companies use die grinders with a million shaped bits to get into any space but that is very expensive and where can you find those bits when you need them on hand