rxrotary2_7

i did not realy look into it, just wondering if anything like this has happened to any of you.

today for some reason when i turned my key to prime the fuel pump, (the pump does not have a check valuve so this is required) the odometer showed the mileage and all guages were at a normal position.
after i got the car started the odometer went blank, oil pressure went all the way up, tach did not work, and fuel went all the way down and speedo did not work. nothing had changed since last time i drove the car. (last week) but i had to jump the car b/c attery was dead. (POS small pc680)
it aluminates, but no guages work. any suguestions.

and NO i did NOT SEARCH

Spain

See in the fuse box, and change the fuses damaged

Or read this thread with information related with your problem:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=131787

rxrotary2_7

thanks. i will take a look at it. most of my factory wiring harness is gone though due to haltech. has been working fine, but i know there is one conection that i did still have down there. dont understand what could have happened. only thing i can think of is that my brother kicked it loose getting out of the car last time we were doing some tunning. he was the only person in the pasenger seat and the wiring is not all secure. did not put the car all the way back together yet.

vosko

iTrader: (4)

YOU ARE NOT supposed to jump a haltech car..... it can fry the ecu.........

rxrotary2_7

did not realize that. thanks. how does it fry it?

rxrotary2_7

pg2 of the manual:
1. avoid open sparks near flamable substances.
2. always disconect batery when doing electrical work.
3. dont chage battery w/ a 24V truck charger or reverse the polarity of the battery or charge unit.
4. dont charge the battery with the engine running. (is this where you are seeing the problem???)
5. all fuel system components should be mounted away from heat sources.
6. make sure there are no leaks in the fuel system
7. disconect the haltech from the electrical system whenever doing arc welding by unpluging the ecu from harness.

if it is #4...those 4 seconds it takes to jump it and disconect? is that what you are talking about?

jetenginedoctor

Jump-starting a Haltech equipped car with either another 12 volt battery or a vehicle with a 12 volt electrical/charging system shouldn't hurt the Haltech. Where you can get into trouble QUICK is using a battery charger with the START/BOOST setting to jump the car. The problem with this is that the electronics that regulate the voltage in most chargers do not react fast enough when you stop cranking the starter, thus creating a pretty nasty voltage spike. The Haltech ECUs have been known to be sensitive to power source voltage spikes. It doesn't mean there's anything really WRONG with the unit, just that you need to be careful not to use a battery charger to jump start the car. Same holds true for most OEM cars too, if you read their manuals.

Still, your best bet is to charge the battery with the key turned off, and disconnect the negative battery cable just for a good measure. Then there's really no way you can damage your ECU.

Good luck, hope you figure out why your gauges don't work.

BK

rxrotary2_7

thanks DR. thats what i thought.
it really would not make much sense to NOT be able to from another 12v source. especialy when originaly trying to get a new haltech equiped car to turn ovr for the first time...this *can* take a few few cranks to get going, and it realy would make no sense to have to replace the battery every time it dies and charge it outside of the car.