nimrodroller

hey guys

not sure where to post this soo ill try in here.

Im having issues with getting my relay/imobilser working in my car. I cant figure out what the alarm diagram is trying to tell me haha.

In the red box area is where im stuck with the ignition.
Theres the 12v battery cable, ACC, Ignition ON and Starter.
With the green line thats the ignition ON cable that goes to the dash?
so my question is where it shows the relay and alam joining onto the ignition on how does that work because if you just T join them up then it will just bypass the relay?

Any help would be really good!

Thanks

MSilk

iTrader: (1)

You just T them it will not bypass the relay. On the relay the ignition input is the switched power from the car. The grey wire is the switched ground from the alarm.

The starter circuit is on pins 87a and 30, so you will have to cut the cars starter wire and place one end to 87a and the other to 30. If I was doing it I would place the wire that is going to the ignition switch to 87a and the wire heading to the starter to 30

Hope that helps

Mike

nimrodroller

hmm thats how i had it but for some reason when the alarm was armed it still turned over. ill take a good look in the morning. Thanks for clear it up anyways man, wanted to make sure i was reading it right haha

nimrodroller

hey guys,

still having issues with this dam alarm. when the alarm is armed and i put the key in and turn to the reds, the alarm goes off but then if i turn to start then it still starts fine.
Ive unplugged the relay and it doesnt start so theres nothing bypassing the relay.

how i have it set up is.
Yellow - Ignition Input - T joined into the ignition ON wire
Green wire from number 86 on the relay also T joined to the ignition wire.
Grey wire - Engine Disable Output - number 85 on the relay
Starter wire from igition barrel going to 87A
number 30 on the relay going to the start motor.

Is this correct?

nimrodroller

Just unplugged the relay and did a continuity test on the relay between Number 30 and 78A on the relay and there was a connecting between them. Also did a continuity test between Number 86 and 85 on the relay and there was a connection also. So does this mean that the relays a dud?

MSilk

iTrader: (1)

Hey Nim,

Yeah how you have it wired sounds right, Take your multi meter and do a continuity to ground on your grey wire (engine disable) and see what it does. When the alarm is armed it should be ground, when it is disarmed it should have no continuity. If it is not doing that check for 12+ on the grey wire while armed. Let me know what you find

(I did this for a few years )

Mike

nimrodroller

hey mate just checked it

when the alarms disarmed theres 0volts going through the grey and yellow cable.
When the alarms armed theres 0.63 volts on the grey cable but nothing in the yellow wire(that links to the green).. possibly the alarm has an issue?

MSilk

iTrader: (1)

Ok well in theory the wires should do the following,

Disarmed:

Yellow with key off 0 Volts
Yellow with key on 12volts
Grey should be neither 12v or ground

Armed:

Yellow with key off 0 volts
Yellow with key on 12volts
Grey should be ground

The reason they wire the relay this way is so the relay is not on the whole time the car is off with the alarm armed (Relay would get hot and it would be a draw on the battery)

One thing you should make sure of:
Is there 12Volts on the yellow wire while cranking? If you have somehow tapped into the AUX wire instead of the IGN wire the car would still start with the alarm armed. You need to have 12 volts while cranking. It is an easy thing to check take your multi-meter and put it on your yellow wire, then make sure the car is in neutral and start the car, did the multi-meter read 12 volts the whole time?


So check the yellow wire for 12 volts while cranking and check the grey wire for ground while armed.
Let me know

Mike

nimrodroller

Mike my friend you are a legend!!!
ok so i tried everything and it all worked and did how you said above, then i got to the test if theres 12v when i crank it and there wasnt!!! but yet it had 12v ONLY when it was turned to ON. I had a look some more and did some more testing and theres ANOTHER wire that has power going to it only when its on ON and it still has power when it cranks.

So i T joined it into that one aanndd BINGO that was the right one!
Big thanks to you Mike! Legend.

QtrMileRd

have yu

MSilk

iTrader: (1)

Happy to help Nim!

Just for information sake

The wire you were tapped into before was the AUX wire (stereo, heater ect,) it goes dead while cranking. The wire you found is the IGN wire it stays energized while cranking (fuel pump ect) Just wanted to add this in case some stumbles on this thread in the future

Mike