SwappedNA

iTrader: (1)

So I've looked over the FSM, and per it, and most of what I've found on the forums, It is supposed to be active below 3,250~ (can't remember the exact RPM, but it's close to that.) My airpump clutch does not engage at idle, so, essentially it is free spinning at idle, which is probably contributing to a part of my idle annoyance.

The airpump is connected, I believe it shares the same fuse as the A/C, and the AC light comes on, and if I could find a MANA condenser, the system would have refrigerant, and the compressor would kick on as well (I've tested it by attempting to fill before I realized it had the leak, compressor came on.)

Per the FSM, I have to check continuity at the air pump plug, I'm just curious as to if there is anything I'm missing before I do this in the meantime, or something that might have an effect on air pump operation that I do not know about/haven't found.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

you can apply power to it directly and for the clutch to engage. that will tell you if the problem is with the car or with the pump itself. same troubleshooting technique as with an ac compressor

SwappedNA

iTrader: (1)

So I assume just straight 12v from the battery + and - to each terminal on the airpump side plug?

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

Affirmative.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

Correct. You will hear a click hopefully, then try and spin the pulley.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I believe the air pump has its own fuse. It's common to blow that fuse since the wiring gets real crispy going to the air pump and shorts out.

It will mess up your idle and on/off throttle big time if you don't have the air pump running.

Dale

SwappedNA

iTrader: (1)

Well, I feel pretty dumb, it LOOKED like it was connected, but I suppose the connector to the harness (or harness to the connector, depending on how you want to say it) were just slightly connected, but not enough for the connector to mate or lock in. Added very little pressure, and it snapped together. Airpump now works.

However...now I notice above 2500RPM, but likely before the airpump clutch is supposed to disengage ( say likely before because I didn't redline it or bring it above 3k on the drive back tonight.) I hear the Moo'ing sound. I've searched for that remedy, and unfortunately, it looks like the links and pictures that were there are broken.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

nice..... now delete it lol

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Welcome to the air pump moo!

It's easy to fix - I pioneered the fix ages ago.

- Go to the hardware store and get a pack of 7/8" rubber chair leg caps.
- Drill about 3-4 small holes in the end of the cap.
- Find the output pipe that dumps the relief air from the air pump, it normally goes back to the stock airbox. You will feel air coming out of it when you rev the motor and hear the "moo" from it.
- Clamp the chair cap over the pipe and test out.

You may have to try different amounts of holes to get it right. With this set up properly you will have no moo at all.

Dale

SwappedNA

iTrader: (1)

I saw your thread, but it looked like the pictures were lost with time. I will most likely look into this fix, as it seems to be a great way to tackle the noise. I really appreciate the effort!