Airbag Light On
11-11-16, 10:10 AM
#1
Airbag Light On
My airbag light is on and I have no idea why. I tried looking up some things but most people seem to have theirs blink if there's an issue. Not the case with mine. Mine is on-constant and does not blink. I've never removed either airbag and haven't done any type of electrical work on the car lately. I replaced the water pump but that's about it.
-Steven-
-Steven-
11-14-16, 05:14 AM
#2
It appears you have a faulty diagnostic module or a poor connection for the plug. See the attached file to diagnose. Go to page S9. If the indicator light stays on, then it's one of the two of the above. Your best bet is to unplug the unit and then replug and see if that solves the problem. If not, it's new diagnostic module time. I am not sure if I have ever heard of one of those going out.
A new one (FD15677F0A) is over $650. If you need one, try Fritz Flynn first. He might have a used one.
A new one (FD15677F0A) is over $650. If you need one, try Fritz Flynn first. He might have a used one.
Last edited by David Hayes; 11-14-16 at 05:22 AM.
11-14-16, 10:01 AM
#5
Found a very helpful walk through of how to get the module out and it very clearly defines how, if it says it's bad, may be fixed. Looks like I have a long day ahead of me!
https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-r...ebuild-807185/
https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-r...ebuild-807185/
Last edited by ItalynStylion; 11-14-16 at 11:08 AM.
11-15-16, 11:38 AM
#7
I pulled the module and had a look inside. It looked perfect. No residue from the capacitors and the fuse/resistor was fine (I did a continuity test with a DMM). Plugged it back in and no dice...light is still on. I'm wondering if its a crash sensor?
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11-15-16, 06:46 PM
#9
Sadly, I don't believe those diagnostic modules are available anymore.
I tried to order a new one from several different outlets due to a similar issue with my module. Each time, I received a subsequent message saying they were no longer available.
P.S. I also bought a couple of used ones that I found online or through the forum community here but came up snake eyes in each case.
I tried to order a new one from several different outlets due to a similar issue with my module. Each time, I received a subsequent message saying they were no longer available.
P.S. I also bought a couple of used ones that I found online or through the forum community here but came up snake eyes in each case.
Last edited by Topolino; 11-15-16 at 06:49 PM.
11-15-16, 08:30 PM
#10
I'm wondering if I should try and throw a little contact cleaner on them just to be sure?
11-16-16, 06:48 AM
#11
Maybe you have some cold solder joints affecting performance? I had several of these on CPU #2. Even though it looked good from the front, there were several suspect joints on the back.
Also, you may wish to go ahead and replace the caps on the board. That might do the trick and it's not difficult to do. Or, send the unit out for repair. Finally, contact Fritz Flynn to see if he has a used one.
Take some pics of the unit and post them up.
Also, you may wish to go ahead and replace the caps on the board. That might do the trick and it's not difficult to do. Or, send the unit out for repair. Finally, contact Fritz Flynn to see if he has a used one.
Take some pics of the unit and post them up.
11-16-16, 08:37 AM
#13
It's difficult to tell from the pics, but C26 looks like it might have some leakage on the bottom of it. Not much but some. Also, D3 and D4 might have issues but then again, it could just be shadowing in the pic.
In any event, I'd replace all of the large caps (the 6 big ones) and then I'd also replace while I am in there the 3 smaller ones (C20, C21, and the medium sized one at the top of the pic. If D3 and D4 resistors in person look suspect, I'd replace those as well.
Radio Shack is pretty good to help determine what you need and they might have them all in stock - but probably not. I ordered what I needed for CPU #2 on Amazon.
For me, using desoldering braid works great on a project like this. Radio Shack carries it. Sucks the solder out and the caps come right out. Remember, the caps and resisters have to reinstalled in the same direction as originally installed.
A final thought, before doing the above, is to grab a buddy's diagnostic module and install it on your car to ensure it solves the problem before you go thru the trouble of repairing the unit.
In any event, I'd replace all of the large caps (the 6 big ones) and then I'd also replace while I am in there the 3 smaller ones (C20, C21, and the medium sized one at the top of the pic. If D3 and D4 resistors in person look suspect, I'd replace those as well.
Radio Shack is pretty good to help determine what you need and they might have them all in stock - but probably not. I ordered what I needed for CPU #2 on Amazon.
For me, using desoldering braid works great on a project like this. Radio Shack carries it. Sucks the solder out and the caps come right out. Remember, the caps and resisters have to reinstalled in the same direction as originally installed.
A final thought, before doing the above, is to grab a buddy's diagnostic module and install it on your car to ensure it solves the problem before you go thru the trouble of repairing the unit.
03-24-19, 04:01 PM
#14
Has anyone had any luck with repairing their modules? I have the same issue. Light is on constantly & I'm fairly certain it's not an issue with the wiring.
I tried checking each of the caps with a multimeter & the resistance does appear to go up slowly... to a point.
Not sure if I should just buy some caps or just buy a known good one. It's too bad that nobody is near me with one I could test!
I tried checking each of the caps with a multimeter & the resistance does appear to go up slowly... to a point.
Not sure if I should just buy some caps or just buy a known good one. It's too bad that nobody is near me with one I could test!