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air pump no worky????

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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 12:52 AM
  #1  
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Unhappy air pump no worky????

I did search, but it did not come up with the answer i need. I just notice my air pump is not turning with the pully. I checked the relay by applying power and ground to it and it clicks. My ac is working so i guess the fuse is not blown (I read while i was searching that the ac and the air pump use the same fuse, if that is not the case please correct me and point me to the right fuse to check).
Well here is the question. How do i check the air pump to see if is bad? beside pulling the hose off, i know that it is not pumping, because the pump does not turn with the pully. can i apply power and ground to it and see if it engage. if so on the connector. which one is power and which one is ground. thank you for your input.
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 08:31 AM
  #2  
mibad's Avatar
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From: Southern Maryland
Sounds like the electromagnetic clutch isn't coming on. Check to see if you're getting voltage at the connector. Could be a bad connector or broken wire.
You should be able to apply voltage to the pump and see if the clutch engages.
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 02:26 PM
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From: tampa
check the ac fuse
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 03:01 PM
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chinoflyer,

You are correct that the A/C and air pump fuse (X-02) are the same.

Even though your relay clicks when activated, the contact point path may be open. Check connector X-05 which connects the black wire with blue stripe in the emission wiring harness (from the magnetic clutch) to the green wire in the front harness (to the relay). It might be unplugged or its terminals might be dirty. Also verify with an ohmmeter that the black wire from the relay connector B1-08 is a solid chassis ground. And make sure all the relay terminals and the B1-08 connector terminals are clean.

You should also check the connector B1-07 for possible bad terminal contacts. That connector brings the fused power to the magnetic clutch on a black wire with green stripe (emission harness) and also picks up the black wire with blue stripe mentioned above.

Last edited by wstrohm; Aug 24, 2005 at 03:04 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 10:14 AM
  #5  
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thank you for your input guys.

i will keep you posted on this issue.
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 05:19 PM
  #6  
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127,338 OEM, 11.5psi
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dude i have a aippump that i will sale you for 60 bucks it has i think around 50,000 miles some were around there but highway miles if that helps, i dont run the airpump anymore so its just been sitting also have a throttle body for 50 bucks with no tps just swapp your old one let me know if your intrested
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by chinoflyer
I did search, but it did not come up with the answer i need. I just notice my air pump is not turning with the pully. I checked the relay by applying power and ground to it and it clicks. My ac is working so i guess the fuse is not blown (I read while i was searching that the ac and the air pump use the same fuse, if that is not the case please correct me and point me to the right fuse to check).
Well here is the question. How do i check the air pump to see if is bad? beside pulling the hose off, i know that it is not pumping, because the pump does not turn with the pully. can i apply power and ground to it and see if it engage. if so on the connector. which one is power and which one is ground. thank you for your input.
Any updates on this? I just installed another (this will be the third one in two weeks) pump and the magnetic clutch is not engaging as it should (and therefore, the damn thing does not pump air!!).

Thought you guys would like to know that one of the other pumps I installed had a stuck clutch that would smoke when the car was running. I have no idea what the milage on the thing was, but it was old.

I'll run through the diagnostics some time this week.
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 11:25 PM
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So how would one go about applying battery voltage directly to the pump? Run wires from the pump to the battery? I just want to check and see that the magnetic clutch engages when power is applied.

On a related note: what do you guys think of wiring the battery directly to the pump for emissions testing purposes (i.e. to take the car and have it smogged), and then removing the power afterwards?
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 11:46 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by mdpalmer
So how would one go about applying battery voltage directly to the pump? Run wires from the pump to the battery? I just want to check and see that the magnetic clutch engages when power is applied.
You are correct Mike. Unplug the connector and run leads from the battery (or a jump box) to the pump connector. Just make sure to connect the + & - leads to the right pins (per the FSM)

On a related note: what do you guys think of wiring the battery directly to the pump for emissions testing purposes (i.e. to take the car and have it smogged), and then removing the power afterwards?
I don't see why this wouldn't work. You would probably need to unplug the connector for this one as well, just to make sure that you don't fry something

BTW: I've got an air pump if you need it.

Joe

Last edited by quicksilver_rx7; Feb 13, 2006 at 11:48 PM.
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 11:55 PM
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Well, it turns out was the airpump that was bad, and I got an used one and that fixed my problem.
to answer your question..
To check and see if your airpump engages when power is apply, you need to disconnected the connector and run two wires form the battery to the connector( the airpump side of course) and apply power to the airpump. I swap the pos and neg a few time, and it does not hurt the airpump if you have it backward.
With the engine off if your pump is working, you will see the clutch on the airpump moves when you apply power and ground to the pump. if it does not move that you have a bad pump.
However, if it does move.. then start your enigne and apply power again. (This time make sure your wires are not touching the belts or any other moving parts.) Make sure your clutch is moving at the same speed as the pully. for the clutch maybe slipping. If your airpump's clutch is slipping then you also has a bad pump.
Finally, if your pump pass both test but it is still not working then, you have an electrial problem else where.
p.s. auto Fd's airpump pully is smaller then maunal fd's airpump, so if you do get an used one form an auto Fd you will need a auto fd belt as well to do the swap.
hope this info helps..

chino
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 05:32 PM
  #11  
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
HA!!

Sorry your airpump is bad, but this thread fixed my idle and vaccuum issues!



I was driving myself nuts trying to find that "vaccuum leak", and I never considered the airpump. Turns out the wires were grounded together. a little solder and heatshrink fixed that sucker right up.

Thank god for this forum......





Dammit, I just replied to a year old post.......

sorry


John M
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