Air Intake on the daily driver??
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Air Intake on the daily driver??
is it okay to put a intake on the fd... cause my fd is my daily driver and i needed to get you opinion cause this one guy told me its not good because it could mess up my mass air flow censor.. is this true? its a hks intake for my twins... cause from him he says that tiny dust could get through the intakes to the mass air flow.. i dunno about it so what do u think?
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I pretty much don't have a clue as to what you wrote means. My FD has Greddy Airinx intake replacing the stock air box. It doesn't have (that I'm aware of) a manual boost controller. What potential problems should I be aware of? Again, I know very, very, very little.
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I've got a boost gauge, but have only owned the car for less than a week. While I have driven it a LOT, most of that was while the engine was nice and warm (even though the air was very cold). I'm not sure I trust my boost gauge completely, but I think I may have seen it spike slightly past 10 a couple of times. Whenever I was asking for that much power, I normally had my eyes on things other than the boost gauge however.
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#8
Irregular Here
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How the heck is a boost controller going to help with cold weather spiking? A boost controller only bleeds off vacuum to your wastegate to help you raise boost above normal levels. If your wastegate can't handle the flow increase from an intake or exhaust - then its only going to compound the problem.
You need to port your wastegate or install an exhaust restrictor. Both are relatively "free" mods although time consuming.
OR
You can always keep your foot out of it - good luck on that one.
You need to port your wastegate or install an exhaust restrictor. Both are relatively "free" mods although time consuming.
OR
You can always keep your foot out of it - good luck on that one.
#9
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David:
Summary:
For a street driven car with just a couple of mods, I recommend keeping an eye on the boost gauge and installing the flow mods one at a time. Usually 2-3 flow mods will not change the boost settings and require neither wastegate porting nor a boost controller.
The details:
The stock boost control system uses a couple of solenoids and a preprogrammed control. As it senses boost pressure, it follows the ECU program that opens the wastegate and precontrol valves to keep that boost regulated. The air/fuel ratio is determined mostly from the boost pressure measured at the manifold. When running stock boost levels, with the restriction in the intake and exhaust similar to the stock components, this works pretty well. You get 10psi at pretty much all air pressures and temperatures, and your air/fuel ratios stay on the safe side of stoich.
There are 3 limitations that you need to be aware of.
1) Changes to the flow resistance of the intake or exhaust will change the maximum boost. I call these 'flow mods', which include: intake, efini y-pipe, intercooler, downpipe, high flow cat or midpipe, and cat-back. For example, you install an intake and downpipe, you may find that instead of max 10psi you're now getting 11psi. 11psi is sorta ok, but 12psi is not. The stock ECU limits you to about 12psi of boost. This is the so-called '10 psi rule' - AFR testing has shown that, if limited to 10psi, your AFRs will be safe for the stock ECU no matter what mods you have.
If it senses any more than that at the MAP sensor, it cuts fuel completely. The driver senses a big hesitation and the turbos slow down. Fuel cut works, most of the time. If you hit fuel cut due to a change in the car that increases boost, you need to fix it so that it doesn't hit fuel cut again. To solve this problem, you need a boost controller. Aftermarket boost controllers allow you to reset the boost to the appropriate level (10 or 11psi for a stock ECU).
2) The stock boost system is not 'fast'. If you install flow mods the reduced resistance can cause the prespool system to spool excessively, leading to a spike in boost at 4500rpm when the prespooled secondary turbo joins the system. The stock solenoids and computer just aren't fast enough at opening the wastegate, and these spikes are really dangerous because they sometimes also happen too fast for fuel cut to kick in. These sudden spikes are prime time for detonation and engine damage. Fortunately, those adjustable boost controllers are also much quicker, and usually stop spikes from happening.
3) The stock wastegate, when controlled by an adj. boost controller, can run really well until you get plenty of flow mods. But with enough flow mods the stock wastegate can reach a choked flow situation, where the wastegate reaches its limit and then boost levels start to rise beyond the boost controller setting. No matter what setting is used on the boost controller, the boost just steadily rises under heavy load. This is called boost creep. The solution is to enlarge the wastegate opening (located inside the turbo housing - not a simple job). By porting the wastegate larger, boost creep goes away. Most FD owners don't see boost creep until they install an aftermarket intake, downpipe, intercooler, cat-back, and finally a midpipe. The midpipe is a big change in flow, and as such I recommend always porting the wastegate prior to installing a midpipe.
Dave
Summary:
For a street driven car with just a couple of mods, I recommend keeping an eye on the boost gauge and installing the flow mods one at a time. Usually 2-3 flow mods will not change the boost settings and require neither wastegate porting nor a boost controller.
The details:
The stock boost control system uses a couple of solenoids and a preprogrammed control. As it senses boost pressure, it follows the ECU program that opens the wastegate and precontrol valves to keep that boost regulated. The air/fuel ratio is determined mostly from the boost pressure measured at the manifold. When running stock boost levels, with the restriction in the intake and exhaust similar to the stock components, this works pretty well. You get 10psi at pretty much all air pressures and temperatures, and your air/fuel ratios stay on the safe side of stoich.
There are 3 limitations that you need to be aware of.
1) Changes to the flow resistance of the intake or exhaust will change the maximum boost. I call these 'flow mods', which include: intake, efini y-pipe, intercooler, downpipe, high flow cat or midpipe, and cat-back. For example, you install an intake and downpipe, you may find that instead of max 10psi you're now getting 11psi. 11psi is sorta ok, but 12psi is not. The stock ECU limits you to about 12psi of boost. This is the so-called '10 psi rule' - AFR testing has shown that, if limited to 10psi, your AFRs will be safe for the stock ECU no matter what mods you have.
If it senses any more than that at the MAP sensor, it cuts fuel completely. The driver senses a big hesitation and the turbos slow down. Fuel cut works, most of the time. If you hit fuel cut due to a change in the car that increases boost, you need to fix it so that it doesn't hit fuel cut again. To solve this problem, you need a boost controller. Aftermarket boost controllers allow you to reset the boost to the appropriate level (10 or 11psi for a stock ECU).
2) The stock boost system is not 'fast'. If you install flow mods the reduced resistance can cause the prespool system to spool excessively, leading to a spike in boost at 4500rpm when the prespooled secondary turbo joins the system. The stock solenoids and computer just aren't fast enough at opening the wastegate, and these spikes are really dangerous because they sometimes also happen too fast for fuel cut to kick in. These sudden spikes are prime time for detonation and engine damage. Fortunately, those adjustable boost controllers are also much quicker, and usually stop spikes from happening.
3) The stock wastegate, when controlled by an adj. boost controller, can run really well until you get plenty of flow mods. But with enough flow mods the stock wastegate can reach a choked flow situation, where the wastegate reaches its limit and then boost levels start to rise beyond the boost controller setting. No matter what setting is used on the boost controller, the boost just steadily rises under heavy load. This is called boost creep. The solution is to enlarge the wastegate opening (located inside the turbo housing - not a simple job). By porting the wastegate larger, boost creep goes away. Most FD owners don't see boost creep until they install an aftermarket intake, downpipe, intercooler, cat-back, and finally a midpipe. The midpipe is a big change in flow, and as such I recommend always porting the wastegate prior to installing a midpipe.
Dave
#10
sleeper
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How the heck is a boost controller going to help with cold weather spiking? A boost controller only bleeds off vacuum to your wastegate to help you raise boost above normal levels. If your wastegate can't handle the flow increase from an intake or exhaust - then its only going to compound the problem.
You need to port your wastegate or install an exhaust restrictor. Both are relatively "free" mods although time consuming.
OR
You can always keep your foot out of it - good luck on that one.
You need to port your wastegate or install an exhaust restrictor. Both are relatively "free" mods although time consuming.
OR
You can always keep your foot out of it - good luck on that one.
you can get your boost controller to limit you all the way to 7psi if you like
#11
sleeper
iTrader: (6)
you could also just read wat Dave typed above^^
#12
Constant threat
is it okay to put a intake on the fd... cause my fd is my daily driver and i needed to get you opinion cause this one guy told me its not good because it could mess up my mass air flow censor.. is this true? its a hks intake for my twins... cause from him he says that tiny dust could get through the intakes to the mass air flow.. i dunno about it so what do u think?
#13
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David:
Summary:
For a street driven car with just a couple of mods, I recommend keeping an eye on the boost gauge and installing the flow mods one at a time. Usually 2-3 flow mods will not change the boost settings and require neither wastegate porting nor a boost controller.
Summary:
For a street driven car with just a couple of mods, I recommend keeping an eye on the boost gauge and installing the flow mods one at a time. Usually 2-3 flow mods will not change the boost settings and require neither wastegate porting nor a boost controller.
#15
Moderator
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is it okay to put a intake on the fd... cause my fd is my daily driver and i needed to get you opinion cause this one guy told me its not good because it could mess up my mass air flow censor.. is this true? its a hks intake for my twins... cause from him he says that tiny dust could get through the intakes to the mass air flow.. i dunno about it so what do u think?
I wrote about the real issues in another post. *That's* what you need to pay attention to.
Dave
#16
time 4 a revolution
thanks dave, that was a real learning exp. u helped me understand a little better. now how hard is it to find someone to port the wastegate ? or is it even possible to try myself ? i just cant stand having a stock car. ive got alot of aftermarket parts just waiting!!
#17
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
If you have emissions, you won't pass with a midpipe. There is also noise considerations and most frequently, a foul smell. There are alternative "hi-flow" cats. Admittedly they don't perform as well as a midpipe, but better than the stock cat....and they solve those issues. One last thought, since the wastegate is internal on these cars, just accessing it is alot of trouble.
#18
needs more track time
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Dgeesman got it right.
The one thing I don't like about open intakes on a mostly stock, daily driven car is all the noise from the air pump and BOV and cRV. Kind of annoying.
adam_c had a nice mod to the stock airbox that helps increase air flow. Works very well and quite cheap. As always though, keep an eye on the boost gauge after flow mods. The stock systems (intake and exhaust) are quite good at helping to restrict boost. Once you start increasing air flow, you risk running more boost than you have fuel to support. Usually more noticeable in cold weather when the air is denser.
The one thing I don't like about open intakes on a mostly stock, daily driven car is all the noise from the air pump and BOV and cRV. Kind of annoying.
adam_c had a nice mod to the stock airbox that helps increase air flow. Works very well and quite cheap. As always though, keep an eye on the boost gauge after flow mods. The stock systems (intake and exhaust) are quite good at helping to restrict boost. Once you start increasing air flow, you risk running more boost than you have fuel to support. Usually more noticeable in cold weather when the air is denser.
#19
time 4 a revolution
ive got a new full exhaust from the turbo back,no cats,im in fla and we dont have emissions, and fmic. car is still completely stock,im trying to learn more about it before i do anything.so i havent installed anything yet, because i would like it to be as dependable as my vette,if at all possible.
#21
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Blow-off valves are actuated by vacuum (or lack of it under load) not by any pre-set max boost pressure.
#25
Project FD
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thanks for the explanation dave... looks like i should get a boost guage
ive got a bone stock R2, except its got a hks downpipe and muffler (still has maincat)
i experienced a massive hesitation at 5.5k RPM one morning when getting on the highway, it was cold out (30-40*F)
i didnt know what it was but "fuel cut" makes sense
ive got a bone stock R2, except its got a hks downpipe and muffler (still has maincat)
i experienced a massive hesitation at 5.5k RPM one morning when getting on the highway, it was cold out (30-40*F)
i didnt know what it was but "fuel cut" makes sense