SanJoRX7

Where do you plug this sensor in? I can't seem to find anything worthwhile by searching. Those that have done this, please kick down the info!

Thanks!

patrick

SanJoRX7

The reason i'm looking for this info is to determine how tough of an install it would be. I'm considering adding a water temp gauge at the same time that I put my AST in and re-do the water/AF mix. Would like to minimize my time under the car, to the extent possible, so doing it all at once is the only way.

Patrick

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Check this post, it might help:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=199824

rynberg

There are three common locations:

1) in the thermostat housing

2) in the upper radiator hose

3) in the throttle body coolant hose

I prefer 1) for quickness of response and the fact that it will be the hottest readings. The only negative is if your t-stat sticks closed, you might not realize it right away. But I have the PFC for that anyway.

AMRAAM4

OK then, what place doesn't have its drawbacks?

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

I put my sensor in the thermostat housing. Works great and took me about 2~2.5 hours for everything. I used this site as reference:

http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...temp_gauge.htm

ZeroBanger

I tapped mine into my AST tonight. Yea its the stock plastic AST...go ahead flame me.

I got an extra AST that I put in my rear bin along with a clam and some hoses. I call it my AST Survival Kit.

SanJoRX7

...OR, you could just install an aluminum one and not ever worry again! DING DING DING!!!

ZeroBanger

No, I dont trust those. There are 2 problems.

1) The shape. I believe (as others do) that the stock shape does something that the coke can Aftermarket AST's dont do. Mazda speed sells the stock shape ones for like 300 or so.

2) I have read so many issues with the filler neck corroding or wearing out.

laters.

SanJoRX7

Unless you have any evidence to believe that the shape of the container has anything to do with how efficiently it removes air from the cooling system, I'd say that it's probably not true. Just because MS sells them in a certain shape doesn't validate any concern...consider that some people don't even have them installed (bypass), and they run fine, which would lend more creedence to the idea that it's an unnecessary part of the system than that a particular shape does anything special. And for $300, I could argue that it's just another gimmick to make cash.

As for the filler neck wearing out, it's a small price to pay once every what, 5 years? 10 years?...to know that it won't simply spontaneously split and spew your coolant on the road leaving you vulnerable to 1) overheat, and 2) spinning out due to the newly slippery road just beneath your car (not to mention other cars that drive out there too).

I'm no engineer, but if any are present, please chime in!

ZeroBanger

Mazda has one on the 787B race car and mazda went to extremes to make the rx7 light and to cut costs. They would not have put an AST ont here unless needed. I believe the shape is important.

You know how long my AST lasted on my car? 9 years. Thats right. It only broke because I took my stock airbox out last year and the mystery hose broke the nipple off. I actually fixed it and use it as emergency spare.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I didn't want to tap my thermostat housing, so I put in a Greddy upper radiator hose adapter. It will give you the same temp reading as tapping the t-stat housing. It's an aluminum 38 mm adapter that costs about $25. Very easy to install. Just cut a one inch section out of your NEW radiator hose, and put the adapter in. You may have to tap the hole if your sender doesn't match the thread on the adapter.

rjuge

hey.. about that greddy thing... do they make anything for oil temp.? all i found was something that screws onto the oil filter... i don't fell like using a celica gts filter though..... anything like a quick disconnect oil plug sender?

rynberg

Greddy makes an oil filter block adapter. It has built-in taps for oil pressure and oil temp (2 1/8" NPT and (1) M12?). You can use the standard FD filter with it but changing the filter is a little more difficult. You have to disconnect the TPS harness and maybe push in the fast idle cam to get the filter out. Makes for a clean gauge sensor install though.

radkins

A well kept secret seems to be that the Autometer sensor will screw right into the allen head bolt right next to the filler neck. Hows that for an easy install? They are ever so slightly different pitches, but it will go in about 4 turns before it gets tight, but be carefull and use sealant, I have had mine there for about 2 years now. Although Autometer temp guages read way wrong and I had to calibrate it myself ny adding resistors.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

You want an easy install for an oil temp sensor? None gets easier that this. I have a VDO sender that replaces the stock oil drain plug. It has a male fitting that pops right off to change the oil.

SanJoRX7

Hmm, easy install negated by crap readings. I'll go for a more accurate reading, even if it means a tougher install :/

SanJoRX7

Where'd you get this adapter? This sounds like just the ticket. RX7Store doesn't seem to have it (not on the site anyway). Also, does it accept any other sensors other than whatever Greddy might supply (i.e. what's the spec on the threads?).

TIA,

Patrick

DamonB

I still feel the only good places to put the sender are in the throttle body coolant or in the stock location on the block. Anything else is not reading the temp INSIDE the block. It may be splitting hairs, but thems my feelings.

I would have to say the AST is the absolute worst place to put the sender. The flow of coolant through there is much slower and of little volume. I'd pick all the other choices over the AST.

ZeroBanger

I'm not dis-agreeing with you and i'm not even advocating to tap the AST. I had an extra one, it was easy to do and I did it.

I'm reading temps of about 15 degrees lower than the Power FC reads and it takes a while for the temps to warm up in the AST VS the stock location.

It gives me a good indication of whats going on which is what I want. If Adam C ever posts a link to that greddy item (and a pic of it installed on his car) I may buy it.

I just dont have the time to leave my car at the mechanic, and pay $250 for him to tap my water temp housing.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Heres a link:

http://www.nipponpower.com/gauges/miscparts.html

I didn't buy it there, but they have a pic. It's the 38mm size. Next time I pull out my airbox, I will take a pic. I put the adapter in the straight part of the radiator hose before it makes the turn to go under the stock airbox. It's pretty close to the thermostat housing, so the temp readings should be the same. I liked installing here because I could replace the radiator hose easily if I wanted to remove it.

I suspect the thread pattern is the same as the greddy sender. I have a VDO sender, and had to drill and tap the adapter to fit the larger sender.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

One more thing:

If your radiator hose is old, it will have swollen up a little. If that is the case, the adapter will fit loosely, and may leak. I suggest replacing the hose so you get a nice snug fit. Nobody likes a loose rubber

SanJoRX7

Jeez, that greddy unit looks like a cinch to install. I think that's just what the Dr. ordered Thanks adam c

DamonB

Right. I don't understand why I would buy a gauge to tell me the temperature of the water inside the motor and then install it in such a way that it CANNOT tell me the temperature of the water inside the motor.

rynberg

That's why I usually go off the reading the PFC displays, which is from the stock sensor. The water temp gauge in the t-stat housing is also useful as it shows how hot the coolant is leaving the engine. I don't know. If I would have had the PFC a year ago, I wouldn't have purchased a water temp gauge at all.