I wanted a removable steering wheel for my 1993 FD as the previous owner installed some pretty aggressive bucket seats that make getting in and out pretty difficult due to the high bolsters making it a tight fit between the factory steering wheel. I had a good experience in my Miata with a similar setup so went with a quick release steering wheel.

Given the hub design, I went with the NRG style short hub with the contact plate on the back.

I had designed a 3D print to use with a contact brush style setup using a pen spring and making a plunger/brush type setup using the stock clock spring mounting hole:



Then I found this in my box of parts from my Miata:

I needed a spacer so I cut a butt connector crimp in half

Then bent the contact into place.

I still have to wire in the electronics, but thought this was an easy alternative to what I've seen. Hope this helps a couple others

 

The WB QR hub has provisions for a horn, and the NRG is identical in most cases. I was able to use the stock clock spring with my WB hub. the trick was to make a jumper to the harness green/red stripe horn wire to connect. WB kit comes with the grounding ring.
Keeping the stock clock spring is advisable if you're able.

 

I had to make up a custom connection for my aftermarket hub as well. I got rid of the stock clock spring set up so I needed something to contact the contact ring on the back of the hub. I was able to find a sprung loaded electrical fitting with a ball bearing built into the tip from Waytek. I soldered that to a wire and made a custom steel mount. I welded the steel mount onto the column. It has been working really well.

 

It appears the larger size adapters do have the cut out to allow the plug to pass through the hub allowing the use of the clock spring like the Works Bell short hub pictured below, but the really short hubs are solid and don't have a cutout to allow a plug to pass through.


I would agree, keeping and using the clock spring if able would be nice, just a pretty quick alternative if anyone finds themselves in a similar situation.

 

Very well made Cgotto6! I like the roller ball bearing tip, hopefully prevents it from digging into the contact plate. Curious what you do for turn signals with a bare column!

I think I'll finish the 3D print as well as it is almost there. The way I have it designed you use a pen spring, a butt connector, and a bullet connector to make the plunge setup. I'll have to steal your solder bridge idea to keep the connection rigid like you did

 

I use a universal module for the signals and hazard lights. I trigger the module with two buttons on my Fueltech keypad, a button for right and a button for left. If you hold a button for 1 second you get like 4 flashes, hold for 2 seconds you get 30 seconds flash, 3 second hold gets you 1 min, 4 second hold gets you on until you hit the button again. They you hit both buttons to engage the hazards.

https://www.signaldynamics.com/01501...ch_query=01501 . I think they are typically used on motorcycles and side by sides due to lack of turn signal canceling column. It has been working great and was very easy to integrate into the car.