Hey guys,

I've seen a few different ways to install the aeromotive stealth pump. Some without the oem plug on the top, and some with.

Is this setup here gonna suffer any drawbacks?



Thanks!

 

This is the way mine was, and it ran great. As long as the pump output us seated well into the tube, than you are fine.

Some chop the feed pipe and use hose, which is fine too. Though there were issues with the hose that Aeromotive supplied getting soft, I believe it is sorted out now. I still used Gates line when I did my duals.

 

So do you crimp the wire together and put adhesive shrink wrap over it?

 

As far as the electrical connections, be very careful using standard shrink wrap.

I used a crimp connector, but removed the plastic cover. Once crimped, I then soldered the entire piece together. The connections were then shrink wrapped with fuel grade tubing. Finally, I used a length of 5/16 Gates submersible hose as an outer shield for the positive wire. This way, I know the positive will never arc on a ground. Don't mess around with voltage and a fuel tank. An in-tank ignition would definitely kill you.

 

I used a heat shrinking butt connector. I think I'll pull that extra heat shrink off of it.

My fiance used the same heat shrinking butt connectors on her LS1 miata build.

 

Right, the adhesive shrink wrap I'm talk about is the one that splits out liquid when heated, so it seal itself against the wire, and it's fuel safe. Another thing is the soldering, I was searching around on Google and people are strongly against soldering connection, they said the solder will add unnecessary resistance, and said a good crimp and adhesive shrink wrap is all we need for fuel pump rewire. I'm about to install my stealth pump so I'm just wondering if that's true.

 

Good luck getting the pump assembly out. I had to drill the heads off six of the screws. And of those, 2 of them broke off flush when I tried to get the stubs out. I have to figure out what to do with those 2...

 

Alright, I'll have to look under the carpet. I never look at the assembly, kinda assume it is in good shape since the car only has little over 60k.

 

The (Almost) Complete Guide To Turbocharging The Naturally Aspirated Second Generation RX-7 - Fuel Pump

"For cars that have been through more than one winter, this is always a hassle. The fuel pump is held on with 8 Phillips screws, that after a few years completely rust in place. The heads become too corroded to remove, and they must be drilled out. I soaked them in WD-40 for nearly a week, scraping and cleaning the screw heads. Luckily, 4 of them came out with a regular Phillips screwdriver and the aid of a hammer. Two were then removed with Craftsmen Damaged Screw Removers (highly recommended) and the remaining two were drilled out. The shanks of the screws that were drilled were removed with a pair of vice grips."

I got 2 out easy. The other 6 were drilled. Of those 6, 4 of the shanks came right out with vice grips. The other 2 broke flush, and I'm still trying to figure out how to deal with them, because unfortunately, they are the 2 on the end of the top, and right next to eachother.