doduong11

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys, i started this new thread because it has nothing to do with the other one (engine won't start after installing).

Well after putting in a brand new (rebuilt) engine i started it up and i know that the water temp sensor (the one in front of the filler at the neck) that one was modified to uses with the after market gauge but i don't have one yet. So anyways i started it up and add 50/50 premixed coolant water, well i noticed the light is always on and so is the buzzz sound. But i add like about 2 1/2 gallon in there so it can't be low. So i kept on letting it warn up to temperature, but as i was checking for leak and stuff when i look back in the car the temp gauge was a little high then half, i know that's normal but i think it was getting hotter and hotter so i immediately shut it down.

Now should i be concern about this, am i putting the right coolant mixture, and or because the sensor line is not connected that's why it's like that?

Also do you guys know those sensors on the transmission, apparently there are like 4

There are 3 plugs if you look from underneath the transmission. the one plugs on the farthest right runs into 2 sensors and the one in the middle and left, what sensor are they for? i apparently cut the wires for those two plugs off and don't know where they go now. so if you know please let me know thanks.

zack4173

iTrader: (3)

i would be worried about the gauge going above medium level on the stock gauge. but im not sure on your aftermaket one. As far as it going off all the time that sounds like it was hooked up wrong.

DigDug

An aftermarket temp sender added to the t-stat housing won't affect anything. The buzzer/light is triggered by the level sender on the front of the t-stat housing. The stock temp gauge reads from the sender on the side of the rear plate.

You have air in the system, which is why you're getting the buzzer. Get one of those Lisle coolant funnels - they make getting the air out so much easier. I recently did a full flush of my cooling system using the funnel for the first time, and I was amazed to get all of the air out the first time I ran the engine! Usually takes several cycles of topping off the filler neck and running the engine to work the air out.

After initially filling the system, let it warm up to t-stat opening temp (180F - wait for it to drop off fast idle, then give it another few minutes) and a bunch of air will bubble out in the funnel. I then rev the engine to around 2000-2500RPM and hold it for a couple minutes, watching the temp gauge and making sure the funnel doesn't overflow. This gets the coolant circulating faster and works out most, if not all, of the remaining air in the system. Then stop the engine and let it cool completely, and it will draw coolant back from the funnel leaving no air at the top of the system. Finally replace the pressure cap and run the engine again, and you should be rid of the buzzer for good.

Also make sure to run the heater at the max setting when bleeding the system.

doduong11

iTrader: (4)

Well i just realized that the temp sensor in front by the neck filler, the factory one was broken and not connected, so i think that's why it's buzzing. But started it again this morning seems fine let it run for about 5-10 minutes buzzing sounds still there but temp gauge stays at normal a little under half, and oh yeah i think that's what i might have seen last time i checked. Because if you're looking at the temp gauge from the outside it looks like it's above half way but if you're sitting down inside the car it looks under half so i guess it was just me yesturday.


By the way, those sensor does anyone have any ideas where they go. I think it might have something to do with reverse, because i can't go into reverse when the engine is on but first and second is fine after i bleed it. So does anyone know about where these two sensors go or for what?

doduong11

iTrader: (4)

Also by the way, i took the line for the heater off and now i can't find it so i plugged it up is this ok and can i still get the air out of the coolant?

DigDug

The buzzer and light are triggered by the LEVEL sensor, not a temperature sensor. The level sensor is a black plastic bolt-looking thing with a wire coming from it, on the lower front of the t-stat housing just above the upper radiator hose. When the coolant level is below this sensor, the wire does not have continuity to ground and the buzzer comes on. Check if your level sensor is even connected.

I'm guessing the "temp sensor in front by the neck filler" is an aftermarket temp gauge sender, which is of no use to the factory engine management. The temp sensor on the back of the t-stat housing is used to switch on the fans and is very important - if it's not connected for whatever reason, you need to fix that before driving the car.


There is a reverse switch, a 1-2 switch, and a neutral switch. The fourth connector is the speed sensor near the rear of the trans. Download the FSM and see the manual trans section to determine which is which.

I have no idea what you mean by "bleed it" in this context.

DigDug

You know you'll just have to bleed it again when you reinstall the hose, so why even bother plugging it? Just get a suitable hose (preferrably a factory one) and reinstall it, then air bleed the cooling system. You'd be far better off to not ghetto-rig these cars.

doduong11

iTrader: (4)

Thanks i will try to hook it back on if i can find it if not i'll be buying another heater line and AC too thanks a lot DigDug

Oh yeah it was the level sensor not the temp sensor for the fan sorry