ADD COOLANT!!!! beeeeeeeeeeeeeee... HOT.
ADD COOLANT!!!! beeeeeeeeeeeeeee... HOT.
just put my fresh new motor in.
ran perfect for a couple of days. then Add coolant light comes on, so i add more coolant. goes off. drives fine.
the next time i strart the car to drive add coolant light comes on, i fill it and the beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep stops.
next day i go to strart and drive the add coolant light comes on, i fill it ( Take in not that when i say fill it, i mean like just top it off with about a quarter cup of water, SO NO loss of coolant this whole time.) Then when i start to drive, not boostin but a 1000rpm into boost 4500 to 5500, the temp starts raisin to get hot. i was in third, so i went into neutral and let off. the temp went down. but would go up if i continued to drive. so i pull in a shop, open the HOT radiator cap with a tshirt thrown on top of it. coolant spews everywhere. i refill and the car drives fine, no coolant light and perfect temperature for as long as i want to drive.
i've tried takin an air bubble out if there was one. my shop says its a Water Seal. i don't want to believe that just yet.
i think it could be the Temp sensor.
we're gonna do a pressure check, change the temp sensor, and change the cap of the Ast tank from 13lbs to 17lbs.
I just can't see how its a water seal. well actually i'm sayin that cause i don't want it to be a bad water seal. Theres no leakin anywhere and no coolant leaks besides when i open up the radiator cap and it spews out. I check the coolant lever every time b4 i drive.
so what do you guys think it is? water seal? or will it be as simple as a new temp gauge/ sensor?
i'll find out tommorrow when it goes into shop. just wanna see if any of you have had this problem and what it turned out to be.
thanks for readin.
ran perfect for a couple of days. then Add coolant light comes on, so i add more coolant. goes off. drives fine.
the next time i strart the car to drive add coolant light comes on, i fill it and the beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep stops.
next day i go to strart and drive the add coolant light comes on, i fill it ( Take in not that when i say fill it, i mean like just top it off with about a quarter cup of water, SO NO loss of coolant this whole time.) Then when i start to drive, not boostin but a 1000rpm into boost 4500 to 5500, the temp starts raisin to get hot. i was in third, so i went into neutral and let off. the temp went down. but would go up if i continued to drive. so i pull in a shop, open the HOT radiator cap with a tshirt thrown on top of it. coolant spews everywhere. i refill and the car drives fine, no coolant light and perfect temperature for as long as i want to drive.
i've tried takin an air bubble out if there was one. my shop says its a Water Seal. i don't want to believe that just yet.
i think it could be the Temp sensor.
we're gonna do a pressure check, change the temp sensor, and change the cap of the Ast tank from 13lbs to 17lbs.
I just can't see how its a water seal. well actually i'm sayin that cause i don't want it to be a bad water seal. Theres no leakin anywhere and no coolant leaks besides when i open up the radiator cap and it spews out. I check the coolant lever every time b4 i drive.
so what do you guys think it is? water seal? or will it be as simple as a new temp gauge/ sensor?
i'll find out tommorrow when it goes into shop. just wanna see if any of you have had this problem and what it turned out to be.
thanks for readin.
to check if it is a water seal, search "champagne test" (probably spelled wrong) and check for a constant flow of small bubbles rising to the top of the coolant in the filler neck, otherwise, to properly burp the system, you should burp it with the coolant hose routed through the top of the throttle body, which is the highest point of the system......doesn't sound like it, but it could also be a water pump.
Rob
Rob
possibly a waterpump, if the pump is working properly on the highway doing decent speeds with no load the temp might stay normal and then when you romp on it it will shoot up.
most likely youd see coolant comiong out of the weep hole and trickling down the front of the motor if that was the situation tho.
the FD seems difficult to fill perfectly with coolant, takes a decent amount of time.
kevin.
most likely youd see coolant comiong out of the weep hole and trickling down the front of the motor if that was the situation tho.
the FD seems difficult to fill perfectly with coolant, takes a decent amount of time.
kevin.
Sounds like a classic case of air to me man. Nothing even rotary specific either.
Did you make sure you had the heater on max and copiously recycled coolant out of the engine into another container while it warmed up? Just use an empty water container and keep cycling more in while you catch excess in the container - then recycle it back. Continually pinch all radiator hoses as well - and double verify that you have the heater on 100%.
Did you make sure you had the heater on max and copiously recycled coolant out of the engine into another container while it warmed up? Just use an empty water container and keep cycling more in while you catch excess in the container - then recycle it back. Continually pinch all radiator hoses as well - and double verify that you have the heater on 100%.
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read my manual (body electrical) C2-36. Remove the sensor wire connection, check for continuity between the sensor and the block when coolant is above and below the sensor. Should change off and on.
Edit: Never mind, you write that the temperature indicates hot. the above is for if only the buzzer and light come on.
Edit: Never mind, you write that the temperature indicates hot. the above is for if only the buzzer and light come on.
Last edited by danny hahn; Jun 4, 2007 at 10:53 PM.
I think that if you just replaced the motor then you may have gotten a pin hole, or a small air space between the couplers in the overflow return line....sooooo instead of rreturning water from your overflow take you are drawing in air.
This was happening to me. I replaced the line a blammo I never had the issue again. Some have had luck with just zip tieing the lines at the couplers and overflow (there are two joints..three lines).
goodluck and it is worth a shot!
-josh
This was happening to me. I replaced the line a blammo I never had the issue again. Some have had luck with just zip tieing the lines at the couplers and overflow (there are two joints..three lines).
goodluck and it is worth a shot!
-josh
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