Ok, I get this "ADD COOLANT" buzzer coming on regularly and it shuts off after sometime (when I brake hard, sometimes when I reverse out of the parkplace, ...). Coolant level is fine, there are no bubbles in the coolant and AST is full of coolant.

I did however change the IC last weekend and did a tune-up (oil, plugs, diff oil, oil filter) yesterday.

I chedked the hoses going to the AST and they seem fine. I just cant see where the lower one goes down into radiator I guess (other one goes to overflow tank, and other to the waterpump).

What could be causing this ? I first thought there could be a pinched hose under the IC or the sensor on the waterpump would have bad connectiom, but all seems fine. Could that sensor under the oil filter be damaged or something by the oil filter replacement ?

Thanks for help.

 

May I add that temp gauge shows normal temperature and that thermostat was changed 6 months back.

 

Where did you check for the coolant level?

 

At the filler neck.

 

Could it be the coolant level sensor failing on me ?

 

One thing I may mention - my AST now sits lower then before. Its top is positioned at the lower side of the intake pipe (cold side) of PFS IC. Could this be the problem ?

 

Ok, I opened up the AST, added distilled watter until the water started dripping out of the top of AST. Then I immediately closed the AST and filled her up to the top of the filler neck. Buzzer was still on when I turned the car on, but it went away after a minute or so. Then I went for a 5mile drive and it didnt come back. I hope its now fixed...

 

If it isn't fixed, jut replace the sensor. It's pretty easy to get at...right on the filler neck.

 

it's your coolant sensor....
the buzzer always come on back then when I first got the car..
but when the sensor was replaced.. No more beeeeeeep...

 

I agree -- it your coolant levels are fine, yet you still get that buzzer, then it's most likely the sensor. Call up Ray at Malloy Mazda.

 

Too bad I have to import every little stuff from the states and then hassle with the customs. Parts overhere are 2-3x more expensive for FD then in the states. Bastards

 

At least you guys get high octane gas.

 

Yea... 98 all the way

 

That's what happened to me and I just replaced to coolant/water level sensor.

 

I'm having this problem as well but I don tthink its my sensor, my car is simply thirsty all the time. Once a week I'll get the coolant light and I'll have to add more coolant. I dont see any leaks under the car yet when i open up the filler the coolant level is lower then last time I filled it up to the top where the sensor is. Any ideas? I just got a new motor on December and got Pettit AST along with new coolant hose job done recently.

 

Maybe the top of your AST is lower then the filler neck. I'm not sure, but that may be the reason the coolant from the AST is going to overflow tank instead back to the cooling system. Am I correct ?

 

Did you burp the coolant system really good, and does the pettit AST come with a new cap or do you have to use the old one?

 

I'm having the exact same issue within the last month. Perhaps the radiator cap is not as tight fitting as it should be(?) Heat and evaporation taking its toll. Not sure what is going on. No water leaks discernable too.

Chris.

 

Hello-

Yes, but 98 RON, not (R+M)/2. That's about the equivalent of 92-93 (R+M)/2. That's available in a lot of parts of the States, too...

Take care,
Shad

 

I bought a used one and kept using the top that came with it, there doesnt seem to be any leaks or anything, it looked brand new when I bought it.

 

My car was always losing coolant and I was continually topping up the rad once a week.

GUESS WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS???

The coolant was leaking INTO the via the heater core and only when the car was warmed up. Had to remove the dash just to get to it. I got the core tested for leaks...nothing...must have been the lines leading into the core because after I re-installed the core it never leaked....though the carpet took 2 weeks to fully dry after I cleaned it!!!
If you accelerate when your car is warm and you smell a sweet smell...its definately coolant... PS have fun!!

I did!! Ended up blowing my motor 2 weeks later cause didnt remove all the air from the system?? DAMN!!! Oh well it was the excuse I needed to do the single conv. and PORT...

My 2 cents

 

Fulblown, it was leaking INTO "what" via the heater core ?

Does anyone know if this problem occurs if your AST is positioned lower then the filler neck. I'm not quite sure if I understand the cooling system correctly. Because I'm getting this add coolant light frequently lately (since I installed PFS IC) as I had to relocate the alu AST.

 

Monitor your overflow tank level. See if it's completely full. If it is, syphon some out until the level reaches the middle of the level mark. After some a couple of days of driving check again. If the level is back up to all the way full again, there are two possibilities.
1. There is a leak in the cooling system, such as the pressure cap seal or hoses not tight. Once found, it's an easy fix and cheap.
2. Your coolant seal is going bad. You could try the block weld method to prolong the engine life, but ultimately your engine is on the last leg of it's life. Time for re-build.
Good luck, this message will self distruct in 5 seconds.

 

I'm kind of relucatnt on the rebuild idea. My car doesnt smoke and there is no sweet smell in the exhaust, nor are there any bubbles in the coolant.

I'll get my system pressure tested.

 

What is the proper position for the AST after relocation? Does it have to be higher/lower then the filler next?